wiped lobe or bad lifter?
#21
Drifting
Member Since: Mar 2008
Location: Wichita KS
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Hey that looks like a really good choice. I didn't know the Voodoo line included plain hydraulic lifters. Thought they were all Hydraulic rollers. I like Lunati. They have special ground cams for me, for an extra $15
#22
If there is not enough taper on a lobe, the lifter will not rotate. That's a big part of the gamble when chaging lifters on a used (not reground) Cam.
I hope there is not a lot of metal in the engine. I would change the oil three or four times in the next 400-500 miles anyway, to be sure or safe.
Take Care, -John
I hope there is not a lot of metal in the engine. I would change the oil three or four times in the next 400-500 miles anyway, to be sure or safe.
Take Care, -John
#23
Drifting
A P-55 cam core + GM lifters + good lube + proper break in = there should be no problmes.
Been doing this quite a few years with no problems and I see these kind of post all the time on forums and there are a lot of cheap cores, cheap lifters and substandard lubes for flat tappet cams.
Good luck with your build Carl
Been doing this quite a few years with no problems and I see these kind of post all the time on forums and there are a lot of cheap cores, cheap lifters and substandard lubes for flat tappet cams.
Good luck with your build Carl
#24
Instructor
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update: make that wiped lobe and bad lifter
old cam is out; new cam, lifters are in. intake is still off. #1 exhaust lobe was completely gone as well. what kind of oil should i use for break in? lunati recommends straight 30w non-detergent motor oil for 1st 500 miles. i bought some from wal-mart that said sae 30 non detergent API-SA.
after reading it more closely when i got home, it said not for use in autos built after 1930! engine damge may occur. what would you reccomend?
as always thanks in advance
matt
after reading it more closely when i got home, it said not for use in autos built after 1930! engine damge may occur. what would you reccomend?
as always thanks in advance
matt
#25
I won't get into the 'which oil is better' thing. Whatever oil is used, I would add a bottle of STP oil treatment to it. Any other similiar additive with a high zinc/heavy metals content will help reduce wear during break-in. They took all those heavy-metals out of motor oil years ago but still be found in additives.
Take Care and good luck, -John
PS: I would change the oil after the first 30-45 minutes of break-in and again at 500 miles. I do this on all new cam changes but would especially say to do it to yours(because of all the metal your engine has had run thru it).
Take Care and good luck, -John
PS: I would change the oil after the first 30-45 minutes of break-in and again at 500 miles. I do this on all new cam changes but would especially say to do it to yours(because of all the metal your engine has had run thru it).
#26
Drifting
We have been using the http://www.cen-pe-co.com/ 20/50 on our cam break ins as it has 2300 PPM of zinc and is high in phosephate and so far no problems.
#27
Melting Slicks
On my Comp Cams data sheet it only called for the zinc additive in regular Dyno oil. My engine builder also agreed but said if not available the Rotella diesel oil still has the zinc in it.
#28
Hello,
I don't much about diesal oil but your engine builder is right! If it does have a lot of Zinc, use it and you might not need additves.
Take Care and good luck, -John
PS: remember to change your oil two-three times within the first 500 miles to finish flushing-out all the metal filings. Good Luck.
I don't much about diesal oil but your engine builder is right! If it does have a lot of Zinc, use it and you might not need additves.
Take Care and good luck, -John
PS: remember to change your oil two-three times within the first 500 miles to finish flushing-out all the metal filings. Good Luck.