danno85

For those of you that have replaced them yourself, how did you get the old rubber bushings out (especially the upper control arms)?

What brand poly bushings did you use?

On the upper control arms, how tight did you go on the nuts on each end of the shaft, or, how much resistance do you leave in being able to move the control arm?

And finally, how do you like the poly bushing after installation?

Thanks!

RED90SIXLT1

I drilled a bunch of small holes in the bushing and then pried them out with out screwdriver...pretty simple. As far as the torques setting for the top nuts...nobody seems to know. They are the only nuts not listed. They are a self locking type so i just tightened them up until i started feeling resistance. I used the energy suspension bushings. Installation was pretty easy...just use lots of marine grease and keep the parts clean. Overall, they ruin your ride (don't care what anyone else says....) you end up feeling every crack in the road. For an earlier c4 that is terrible. But they did seem to give the car a little more responsiveness.

danno85

I'm drilling out the rubber in mine too. I've seen the rubber burned out with a torch before, but that was on steel, and it was much more messy too.

The nuts on my uppers looked like they had red lock-tite on them. Since the poly bushings are not as soft as the stock rubber, I was asking about how much to tighten the nuts because it seems like you wouldn't want to have too much resistance there that would keep the control arm from moving.

I'm using PST bushings, and the "front" upper is one piece with a lip on both ends (less of such on the inboard side), and I could't see how I would get it it there. Were your's like that??

Thanks for the reply

Bluevette85

Let me know how these bushings are to install and how they feel on the road. I am thinking of doing the front and rear this winter with the PST bushings.

EricVonHa

When I redid my suspension... I took everything apart and took all the parts to a local machine shop that I patronize. They promptly pressed everything out for me in about an hour and I was on my way! I put in all Vette Brakes Products Poly bushings and I thought it was a quality experience and quality products. The install went very well as most bushings (except for sway bars) are two piece halves with a single internal metal cylinder for the bolt pass through (most stock metal cylinders only arrived at that shape by being rolled, once they're rolled into a circle, they were never welded shut!) I also put in the "sport" springs while it was apart. What a rough ride! It does handle like it is literally on rails now. I new the before and after stiffness of the suspension was going to be intent, so I lubed all bushings/washings/sleeve cylinders and mounting points with marine grease. It makes the suspension pliable without causing it to bind. Whether the suspension actually reacts quicker or not is a matter of how well I do next season autocrossing!

danno85

I'll let you know. It's going to be awhile though - I'm kinda going through and rebuilding most of the car (suspension, brakes, engine, transmission, interior, paint, etc.). Part restoration, part rebuild, and some "hopping up", so to speak.

I haven't updated this in awhile, but here are a few pictures... http://home.austin.rr.com/dancurrie/ProjectVette.htm

I'm hoping to have the car back on the road in the June time frame. :smash:

I really like the PST kit. I got the front and rear kit with ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. It's really complete. The only thing it didn't come with was sway bar bushing and link bushings for the rear, but the front even included the link bushings for the sway bar.

I like a pretty firm ride, just don't want it to be harsh - we'll see!

lemans396

check my post : suspension upgrade results.
Dramatic difference, the car does not budge. I wouldn't say it's a harsh ride but extremely firm. Well worth it.