OPTI/Codes
04-13-2008, 02:24 PM
#6
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 1999
Location: Brighton, MI
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Been there, done that. Code 16 and 36 are typical signs of death. From memory here I think 16 is high resolution pulse and 36 is low resolution. I think the car will be dead on the spot with 36, but can run for a while with intermitant problems with 16, although it won't always set the code. It will just run like crap every now and then.
04-14-2008, 07:20 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
Yes. After about 20 minutes when it was hot, it would kick, buck or cough under load when accelerating. If I down shifted the problem became very minimized. Sometimes it developed a wondering idle when it felt like. When it was cold and for the first 15 minutes or so things were normal. Code (16) was not set because never lost the low resolution pulse.
Intensity of symptoms would vary as so would the times.
Intensity of symptoms would vary as so would the times.
04-14-2008, 07:34 PM
#10
Been there, done that. Code 16 and 36 are typical signs of death. From memory here I think 16 is high resolution pulse and 36 is low resolution. I think the car will be dead on the spot with 36, but can run for a while with intermitant problems with 16, although it won't always set the code. It will just run like crap every now and then.
04-14-2008, 10:16 PM
#11
Drifting
Had my balancer spin off again.....
This time I purchased the Jegs racing balancer hub and bought a matching SB shear key...I have a stroker crank on my LT-1 with a shear key cut. Put on a new crank oil seal while I was at it....
Well, to get all this installed I had to remove my two year old optispark.
When I removed it, the 4 pin female long slim connector that I had to disconnect had a small corner piece crack off at the connector end.....some of the small female connectors looked corroded and some of the plastic looked slightly oxidized.
I put the opti in and the hub, plugged in all the distributor wires and figured I try running the engine for a second to make absolutely sure the opti pin on the camshaft was set properly into the back of the opti...mind you, it went in like a glove as I was very careful lining it up.
Well, it wouldn't start, so I checked codes as the check engine soon light was on and sure enough I had a code 36! Had none before...
So, I pulled that damned opti connector and tried to clean the inside of theose tiny contacts with a transmission pick probe and then dabbed some noalox conductive grease in each connector. Think oxidized loose old connectors caused my problem.
Plugged it back in and it started this time, but still had a code 36. Was hard to start, which it never was before.
Put everythinng back together and ordered a new opti wire connector harness that connects back under the pass side injector cover.
BTW, did remove the old harness and cleaned the 4 male pins down inside the optispark where the connector goes in preparation for the new one.
Car is sitting up on my lift until the new replacement harness comes. Found it on Ebay for $35 + $3.50 shipping & handling.
Hopefully the crapped connector is what caused my problem...we'll see
This time I purchased the Jegs racing balancer hub and bought a matching SB shear key...I have a stroker crank on my LT-1 with a shear key cut. Put on a new crank oil seal while I was at it....
Well, to get all this installed I had to remove my two year old optispark.
When I removed it, the 4 pin female long slim connector that I had to disconnect had a small corner piece crack off at the connector end.....some of the small female connectors looked corroded and some of the plastic looked slightly oxidized.
I put the opti in and the hub, plugged in all the distributor wires and figured I try running the engine for a second to make absolutely sure the opti pin on the camshaft was set properly into the back of the opti...mind you, it went in like a glove as I was very careful lining it up.
Well, it wouldn't start, so I checked codes as the check engine soon light was on and sure enough I had a code 36! Had none before...
So, I pulled that damned opti connector and tried to clean the inside of theose tiny contacts with a transmission pick probe and then dabbed some noalox conductive grease in each connector. Think oxidized loose old connectors caused my problem.
Plugged it back in and it started this time, but still had a code 36. Was hard to start, which it never was before.
Put everythinng back together and ordered a new opti wire connector harness that connects back under the pass side injector cover.
BTW, did remove the old harness and cleaned the 4 male pins down inside the optispark where the connector goes in preparation for the new one.
Car is sitting up on my lift until the new replacement harness comes. Found it on Ebay for $35 + $3.50 shipping & handling.
Hopefully the crapped connector is what caused my problem...we'll see
Last edited by 95BLKVette; 04-15-2008 at 11:34 PM.
04-15-2008, 09:45 AM
#12
Drifting
Member Since: Jul 1999
Location: Brighton, MI
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Quick startup test like 95blkvette did everything seemed ok. Put the water pump back on and giving it a day to dry up. I'll add coolant tonight and should be back on the road tomorrow.
06-29-2008, 12:37 PM
#14
Instructor
Member Since: Jun 2004
Location: OH/FL
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95Blk, have you had any more Code 36's since replacing your harness?
My '95 has the DelTeq ignition system, but at 85k miles it would act up under hard acceleration and then run fine, but at half power. I'm wondering if harness could be a problem...
My '95 has the DelTeq ignition system, but at 85k miles it would act up under hard acceleration and then run fine, but at half power. I'm wondering if harness could be a problem...
