Redeasysport

Started the tear down and found the forward gear retainer split just like pcolt94's link showed his was. That is the cause of my "rocking chair" I ordered some "weld on" glue to try and fix it. I will be taking a good gear out of the seat track that the forward and back does not work on to replace this one but will resuse the repaired gear on my passenger side track. Here is a detailed description of the glue I am using on it.
SUBSTRATE RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 16 is especially formulated to bond acrylic plastic. It can also be used for bonding styrene,
butyrate, PVC and polycarbonate, as well as other plastics and porous surfaces.

BONDING RECOMMENDATIONS
WELD-ON 16 is recommended as an excellent general purpose, high strength acrylic cement. It is especially
useful where fast cure and high strength are desired for applications such as large housings, signs, plastic
letters, industrial fabrications, display items, lenses and models.

GENERAL DESCRIPTION
WELD-ON 16 is a very high strength, clear, medium bodied, fast curing, bodied solvent-type acrylic cement.
Applied to cast, molded or extruded acrylics, it will effect initial bonds within minutes and form strong joints
within hours.This product may be thinned with WELD-ON 3 by approximately 10%. Initial bond forms very
quickly so some parts may be handled within a few minutes of application. Bond strength continues to
develop very rapidly reaching a substantial level within hours. Joints are water and weather resistant and will
generally have similar physical and chemical properties to acrylic plastic.

BOND STRENGTH DATA
The following strength data was obtained with compressive shear loading at 0.05”/min.The materials tested
were ” acrylic lap joints of 1 sq. in. bonding area.

SUBSTRATE MATERIAL 24 HOURS 1 WEEK
Acrylic 1700 PSI 2200 PSI
Polycarbonate 1000 1700
Styrene 900 1700

ADHESIVE PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS
COLOR: Clear
VISCOSITY: 800 cps
WORKING TIME: 2 – 3 minutes
FIXTURE TIME: 5 – 6 minutes
80% STRENGTH: 16 hours
SPECIFIC GRAVITY: 1.02 ± .040
COVERAGE: 10mil: 28sq. ft./Pint 224 sq. ft./Gallon
20mil: 14sq. ft./Pint 112 sq. ft./Gallon

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
• Parts to be joined should be clean and fit without forcing.
• Apply WELD-ON 16 to one or both surfaces with brush, polyethylene squeeze bottle or gun.
• If cement is applied to one surface, bring the two surfaces in gentle contact for several seconds to
allow the dry surfaces to be softened.
• Assemble with firm pressure while parts are still wet.
• Hold or clamp assembled parts firmly until initial set. Joint strength will increase greatly in 24 hours.
Thereafter, strength will continue to increase gradually for some weeks.

Redeasysport

Weld on #16 did not work back to the drawing board. The plastic almost feels like nylon. Wish I had a piece to burn so I could use the link I posted to ID it for sure.

OK did some more testing and a burn and am 90% sure it IS nylon. I burned the tip of a gear retainer and it burned blue no smoke and frothed. Nylon is the only one in the chart that froths but I can't get a smell and did not want to let it burn more and risk destroying the cap. I have found a glue call "Plastic Surgery" that is supposed to glue nylon but to be sure I will try using my micro torch and weld the outside after gluing. I will report back........

Redeasysport

Thanks for the link pcolt94.
This is my problem and the fix I am using. As you see from the link the 2 pieces seperate. It is nylon. I bought Sure Hold Plastic Surgery glue at Walgreens and glued it back togther. I then found 2 small brass wood screws nd cut the head off. I took the screw and heated it with my micro torch and imbedded into the side away from the tab while continuing to torch the plastic till it starts to burn. It is very hard to see it burning but you will see it bubble and melt and the screw will sink into the nylon. This is to keep the cap end from seperating again. When I reassemble it I am going to use a ball of plumbers epoxy and tuck it in near the end cap to keep it from being able to move. This step may not be necessary but I don't want to do it again. The plumbers epoxy will stick to steel (I hope)and hopefully fill in the void between the cap and the casing. You must be careful with the torch part as I said you may not see it burning and you will have to blow it out once the screw is in position. The nylon congeals back into the same or at least it looks the same as it was before the screw was imbedded.

I still do not have a fix for the worm gear positioner bracket. I have a small crack in the upper tab that I used glue on mine but the rest is in good shape. This is the part that really controls the front and back movement and positions all the gears. It is molded nylon and the micro torch melting and congealing might work on it but as I said my problem was more with the front gear moving so the seat rocks and the retainer fix I have come up with will solve that.


BEZ71 I have not forgot you and will contact you after I do this fix on my other seat as it has the same issue. My pass side seat has an issue with the front/back movement but the up and down is fine so I will be swaping a retainer cap out of it and send you all the bad stuff in it to look at.

Redeasysport

Installed and operational No more rocking chair. One down and 1 to go.

ccmano

Looks like I've been working on the same project. Tore down two units and found the same thing described in this thread. It's the nylon gear support structure and gear shaft end supports that break and cause the gears to go out of alignment. The support structure was broken similarly in both units as are the end caps.

My thought was this; I will glue the nylon pieces of the center support back together so that a complete unit is intact. We should then be able to use it as a template to either machine or cast a new one out of aluminum or bronze. Once a properly working example has been made, it should be possible to have it reproduced in quantity.

Ofcourse it will be interesting to see how much that costs.

BEZ71 are you up to making a pilot piece? I'm just north of you in Grayslake, IL. and could bring you the parts.

Here's what we're dealing with:

Hans

destoy

Actually Keen Parts does and has for awhile. I spoke to Tom at Corvettes of Carlisle this year. See my posts on this thread:
<http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=2092729&highlight=track +seat>

Mail from Tom today indicates he is working on a plan to offer rebulit transmissions . . . .

destoy

Tom from Keen Parts post is here:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...post1566943543

mnstrlt1

i didn't even know a manual track was offered for corvettes? if so, what model years had them and what is the interchangeability of these manual rails?

My power equipment is also giving up, and my thought was to find the needed parts from an RC car vendor (hi-dollar RC stuff), for gears/bearings, etc

Redeasysport

Sorry won't work look at the above links and pics. The gears are probably OK it is the molded pieces that break. No bearings to speak of just nylon.

jrprich

Do they do a core exchange or ?? Do you recall what a repaired track costs ?

Jennifer@KeenParts.com

Yes, we do a core exchange. A repaired seat track is $220. You can call me for more details at 800-757-5336.

Kevin
www.KeenParts.com
800-757-5336

jkh2000

I agree with you. Someone is making parts for these. The core charge is $25 and you get that back when you send yours in. The problem with that is it cost $8 to send it back in. My son is a machinist and I am going to take one apart and give him the gears to make out of aluminum. Hey maybe a new business here. If so it won't gouge anybody.

mmanship

I too have a 1992 Vert with rocking seats. I would love to see the pictures of your effort and if an aluminum part gets fabricated, I am a buyer. Thanks

94vettelover2

If anything have your son charge double the cost of what it takes to make them & have "us" pay for shipping which should be included in the price.It will be alot cheaper than the alternative($220).I know everyone has to make a living but people are broke.I never seen so many people broke in my life being a Auto tech.Its scary

mmanship

So, Has anyone made the parts we need for the seat transmission yet? Or, can we buy a rebuilt transmission yet? From what I read in here, glueing and monkeying around with these cheap plastic pieces is not working.

Jennifer@KeenParts.com

You can buy just the seat transmission from us if you do not want an entire track. The pin on the end of the gear needs to be measured, so we can get you the correct transmission. There were two different sizes used. Feel free to call us if you would like to order one or have questions.

Thanks!

Kevin
www.KeenParts.com
800-757-5336
Keen Parts Blog

sante65

Here is the deal on these seat transmissions. All the corvette places that are selling rebuilt units are using the same person to rebuild them. They are all sent out. One guy bought the rights from GM and probably owns the molds used to make the plastic part. He refuses to sell the part himself. I refuse to pay $200 just so my seat can go up or down however, it does bother me that something doesn't work on my car so one way or another I will fix it.

BV85

BEZ71 PLS let me know if you guys get something done on this. TIA

ddahlgren

The parts so far look like they could be made out of delrin so far and would put a bronze bushing in for the shafts to eliminate any precision bores to be machined. Browning and a bunch of other companies make stock gear sets and it seems like a source gm might have used for those parts, it might be worth a look there. I have a very annoying rocking chair seat too so will be interested and have a spare seat track too.

bitsa85

That is what I did. I paid $20 for a passenger side maunal seat track and installed it on the drivers side. It works great!