janarvae

I am severely ashamed of myself. It's 2AM and I decide to tighten the automatic transmission pan bolts that have M 5.8 written on their heads. I had just gotten done changing the low oil sensor and oil + filter and felt on top of the world because I managed to not break the oil sensor. The problem is I read 96in-lbs torque in my Haynes manual, but 2AM Jonathan decided to try and tighten the transmission pan bolts to 96ft-lbs!!!!

As would be expected by a normal person at normal hours, one of the bolt heads snapped off, but did not take any thread with it. I am ready to accept any and all ridicule in exchange for help. I have to be somewhere at 10AM tomorrow morning and need to know if the headless bolt can be left in there until this weekend or if an immediate repair is needed. If I did not take any thread off with the head, will the fluid, under constant pressure during my one-hour Monday commute, stay in the pan where it belongs? Or should I go to NAPA or Autozone at 8AM or whenever they open and try and drill out the bolt, letting some fluid leak out in the process, then put a new bolt in, and add more automatic transmission fluid? I'd rather not do the latter until this weekend or Monday night at the earliest when I can do an entire transmission fluid swap. Oh, and does anyone know the exact bolt specifications pertaining to length, threads, and strength?

Please help with any REAL advice you can give me. Will the fluid stay put or not?

Thanks in advance,

Jonathan

cv67

No ridicule here, weve all made mistakes. Fluid in pan isnt pressurized at that poin, its purpose is similar to tht of an oilpan, for drainback and pickup..Worst case scenario you seep a little fluid.. If its just one bolt I wouldnt worry about it, just keep an eye on it til you can fix it.. .
Go to bed.

navyndi2

You should be fine untill this weekend, I'm not sure on the bolt size off hand but I know you'r fluid shouldn't leak out. You should be able to run by Napa this week and they will have the correct bolt. Removing the bolt is going to be a PITA though, It's something I've always hated doing at work, you'll need to get a set of easy outs from one of the tools stores if you plan on doing it you're self.

SK.LT1

pablocruise

WWMcGVD?

McGyver might try to put a c-clamp or locking pliers at the location of the bolt.

janarvae

Thanks, I'm going to sleep a lot better tonight! I've learned that nothing good happens after 2AM -- at least when working on my car Thanks again for that explanation I was really worried.


Yea, the reason I was tightening them in the first place is because the pan has been leaking a little lately. Nothing major -- just a couple drops that I have to clean up from it sitting over the weekend. I think it might be because the gasket is long ready to be replaced. Now that I'm reassured I won't fry the transmission this morning, I'm going to order a transmission freshen-up kit from Ecklers or MidAmerica. I just need a new filter, gaskets, and bolts, right? And when I go to NAPA, will they look it up in their computer or will I have to bring an intact bolt?

Thanks again for all your help you guys - this is exactly why I love this forum!!

Jonathan

janarvae

Genius.

86PACER

You'll be fine. A trans shop left out one of my pan bolts entirely before I discovered it. It never leaked but I did install a new bolt.

The fact that only the head broke off and no threads came with it is to your favor because it gives you something to grab and relieved any torque. This means you should should be able to remove the pan, and simply unscrew the now pretruding threaded piece by hand or with pliers. Since without the head the bolts threads are not under any torque now.

93 ragtop

When you get ready to remove it, it may be as simple as dropping the pan and taking a pair of vice grips to back it out. If not, you should be able to drill it and then use a easy out to back it out.
Good luck!!

janarvae

Thank you again to all who replied so quickly and at such late and early hours. I made my commute without a problem and there were but one or two drops on my parking space after sitting there all day.

I decided to head over to NAPA to buy a replacement bolt, but they said they couldn't look it up in the computer, which was odd as they are the warehouse for the Tampa Bay area. Anyways, I ended up buying the other required pieces for the fluid change and something for my brakes.

I bought a NAPA auto transmission filter with cork gasket and 5 quarts of their NAPA brand Dexron III fluid. They assured me it was equal to the Valvoline as they are made by the same company. Does anyone have any experience with either NAPA transmission fluid or their filters? Should I exchange either one? I am going to go ahead with the fluid change (not flush) regardless knowing there could be some complications down the road with a transmission of 80K miles on it. The car had just 20,000 miles two years ago and has been a daily driver since. In that original 20K miles, it had one fluid change, but none since. The small amount of fluid that collects on the garage floor on weekends is dark in color -- is that bad?

Thanks again,

Jonathan

RACER 1993

I don't know about Napa fluids but I have really learned to hate transmission pan gaskets. Every time I have every used one it leaked.
Except on my Ford truck. I have even ordered "Fel Pro" gaskets and had them leak. I always use a torque wrench too. (Inch Lbs)

Whenever I need to do auto transmission pans I use High Temp RTV for the gasket, you also don't have to worry about the gasket moving.
I have never had a leak with this method.

My last two new Dodge vans had RTV on the pan from the factory.

pkazsr

For everybody, I have learned that left-handed drills work as well as easy outs, especially on small bolts. (less than 3/8ths) At the drills slowest speed and a little pressure the bolt will back right out most of the time. I haven't used an Heli-coil in the past year or so.

JackDidley

I agree with Racer 1993. No gasket required. If the fine print on the NAPA fluid says Ashland Oil, its a Valvoline product.

janarvae

So I should just buy the Permatex High Temp RTV and not use the gasket at all or, as their website says, put it on the new gasket?


Yep, it says made for NAPA by Ashland Inc., Russell, Kentucky. What about the NAPA transmission filter? Is that any good, or should I return it and buy a AC Delco or another specific brand?

86PACER

I use this. I only add it to the pan side of the gasket. I do this because I hate having to scrape off the old sealant from the trans surface the next time around.

janarvae

Thanks, I'll have to pick that up at AutoZone before the week's end.

But what about the NAPA transmission filter? Is that any good, or should I return it and buy an AC Delco or another specific brand? Has anyone else had the guts to try the NAPA transmission filter?

Road Agent

This crap is way overrated!

chad89

Another method I have used in the past on rounded bolt heads etc. is to find a nut that fits just over whatever needs backed out (this is not a good technique if the bolt is broken off flush, obviously) and weld the bolt shaft or rounded bolt head to the new nut. Then back it out. Works like a charm.

86PACER

So I take it you have something that's better? I've used other sealants and this one has always made better and more realiable seals no matter where I use it. My oil pan has yet to leak a drop of oil in years. In fact, my valve covers, water pump, intake manifold, thermostat housing, dist hole, and others I can't even remember still haven't leaked in years. That's all I go by.

anesthes

Actually it's not. It sets in 15 minutes, and the vehicle can be returned to service immediately after the repair. Meaning, it doesn't have to sit out back overnight, for hours, etc while the customer calls back 12 times asking "is it done yet!?!?". The stuff is absolutely amazing. It even sets to oily surfaces which is great for backyard mechanics who don't actually want to take the thing apart.

However, it doesn't work with transmission fluid! Nor should any type of gasket maker be anywhere near a transmission. If you plug an orfice in the valve body, your screwed.

"rol", "felpro", and others all make 1pc rubber gaskets with plastic inserts for 700R4's which work great. The problem with the cork gaskets is, at one point some idiot overtightened the pan and now its warped.

-- Joe