Cabin Heater Coil Leak
11-30-2007, 09:12 AM
#2
Race Director
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I assume you mean heater core and you start by tearing half the interior out. The heater core was the first thing GM started with and they built the car around it.
Last edited by NEVRL8T; 11-30-2007 at 11:24 AM.
11-30-2007, 10:38 AM
#4
Safety Car
Do a search for the "fast guy method" of repairing the heater core. It is a lot of work, you may want to pay someone to do it.
Good luck
Good luck
11-30-2007, 10:51 AM
#5
4th Gear
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I'm sorry. I'm so busy to day at work today I mis-spelled Angel and wrote coil again instread of core....anyway, it does look like a big task..I haven't found any book information and don't have any of the tech. manuals.
Tx
Tx
11-30-2007, 11:35 AM
#7
Drifting
I just did this body contortion test a few months ago in my '88. It took about 2 1/2 hours to remove it, and about 2 hours to replace it. I took a day off in between (I'm 6' 5" and 245 lbs). I also was helped by my wife..otherwise I probably would have sold the Car 
.
I basically used the fast guy method. If I had to do it again, I probably would pay someone to do it, depending on cash flow at the time. The most difficult part is finding the unseen bolts and then replacing them later. If you take your time and have some help, it shouldn't be too bad.
I would have a new core handy and just re and re the same day if possible. Remove it in the morning, have lunch, and then replace it. It is not a technical repair just a slightly difficult one to do, due to the Car being built around the heater core as mentioned, you will understand this once you start the repair.
Good luck and have some cold beverages waiting when your done.
. I basically used the fast guy method. If I had to do it again, I probably would pay someone to do it, depending on cash flow at the time. The most difficult part is finding the unseen bolts and then replacing them later. If you take your time and have some help, it shouldn't be too bad.
I would have a new core handy and just re and re the same day if possible. Remove it in the morning, have lunch, and then replace it. It is not a technical repair just a slightly difficult one to do, due to the Car being built around the heater core as mentioned, you will understand this once you start the repair.
Good luck and have some cold beverages waiting when your done.
11-30-2007, 11:02 PM
#11
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I would NOT recommend using a used heater core. Alldata gives 5.5 hrs for the job, and any tech would not install a used heater core. (In my opinion, that would be like installing a used clutch; sure it might work , but for how long?) You really would not save much money and/or time by doing that. There is also a TSB for the cooling system that stresses the correct mixture of Dex-cool to prevent cooling system corrosion and premature failure. Also beware of electrolysis in the system.
12-01-2007, 12:56 AM
#12
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I would NOT recommend using a used heater core. Alldata gives 5.5 hrs for the job, and any tech would not install a used heater core. (In my opinion, that would be like installing a used clutch; sure it might work , but for how long?) You really would not save much money and/or time by doing that. There is also a TSB for the cooling system that stresses the correct mixture of Dex-cool to prevent cooling system corrosion and premature failure. Also beware of electrolysis in the system.
Anyone want a paperweight?
12-01-2007, 09:31 AM
#13
Drifting
With my thinner son's help, we replaced this last weekend. Also using Fast Guy method. A thinner forearm and smaller hands are very helpful with the upper screws. The photo supplied by Agent 86 was extremely useful as was CFIEFI's advice on using a 3 inch 1/4 extension. I actually used a flexible extension (shaft like very strong spring). With the photo, I was able to put my socket directly on the top driver's side screw first try. I did the repair in 30 minute to 1 hour periods scattered over the Thanksgiving Holiday weekend to avoid frustration. Also avoided keeping an account of total time for same reason.
I recommend that you test the new core before installation using the thinnest inner tube you can find. Cut out a section about a foot long covering either side of the tube's air valve. Carefully attach the ends to the inlet and outlet tube--it is hard to get a good seal. Inflate the tube to about 15 lbs (don't go too high but I don't know what too high is). Put the core under water and look for a stream of bubbles. After finishing the job, I repeated this test with the old core and there was a very small stream of bubbles--I think that I actually hoped to see a larger leak. Weird.
I recommend that you test the new core before installation using the thinnest inner tube you can find. Cut out a section about a foot long covering either side of the tube's air valve. Carefully attach the ends to the inlet and outlet tube--it is hard to get a good seal. Inflate the tube to about 15 lbs (don't go too high but I don't know what too high is). Put the core under water and look for a stream of bubbles. After finishing the job, I repeated this test with the old core and there was a very small stream of bubbles--I think that I actually hoped to see a larger leak. Weird.
12-01-2007, 10:28 AM
#15
4th Gear
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Thanks for all the information. So what is this "Fast Guy Method" and where might I find it on the internet...? Also, By what I've read it looks like I'm going under the dash for this fix..You right so far.. I think I would prefer a root canal...
12-01-2007, 09:01 PM
#16
In terms of difficulty its not that bad, the problem is in the time. You definitely need to get the right tools (very important), have the time (to do some work including the ability to walk away and come back), and label everything, especially the wires (harness) (sharpie and masking tape). Do a search there is a bunch of material on this project. You can count on me to help you via this forum as much as I can. I am sure others will do the same. Jack
12-01-2007, 09:45 PM
#17
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