Hard brake pedal solution, finally!!
#21
Although I don't understand how clearing the codes without addressing the underlying problems would correct any "Hard Brake" symptoms, if it works; GREAT!
It isn't necessary to use a Tech-1 scanner to clear the codes on OBD-I cars. They can be cleared by using a U shaped piece of wire (paper clip) inserted into the "A" and "H" pins of the ALDL socket.
1. Turn the ignition "Off"
2. Ground pin "H" to pin "A"
3. Turn the ignition "ON"
4. Wait for the code to begin flashing.
5. Unground pin "H" from pin "A" for at least one second, then reground it. This must be done three (3) times within ten (10) seconds
6. Wait at least 15 seconds before turning the ignition "OFF". The verify that Code 12 is the only code being flashed. If not, the codes haven't been properly cleared and you must repeat the procedure.
The computer will also clear a code if it doesn't reappear after 100 engine on/off cycles.
It isn't necessary to use a Tech-1 scanner to clear the codes on OBD-I cars. They can be cleared by using a U shaped piece of wire (paper clip) inserted into the "A" and "H" pins of the ALDL socket.
1. Turn the ignition "Off"
2. Ground pin "H" to pin "A"
3. Turn the ignition "ON"
4. Wait for the code to begin flashing.
5. Unground pin "H" from pin "A" for at least one second, then reground it. This must be done three (3) times within ten (10) seconds
6. Wait at least 15 seconds before turning the ignition "OFF". The verify that Code 12 is the only code being flashed. If not, the codes haven't been properly cleared and you must repeat the procedure.
The computer will also clear a code if it doesn't reappear after 100 engine on/off cycles.
#22
Race Director
He mentions this works on OBD-1 car, I can't remember the exate year for OBD-2 going into the car, 1992 perhaps? If I remember correct the ALDL has more pins so you could just check that. H is the brake sense speed input pin. My OBD-1 connector has 12 pins of witch three do not have a wire in them. Hope this helps!
#24
Burning Brakes
I can't say specifically what Pins a 1992 or 1993 ALDL use because I don't have the Service Manuals for those years, but A to H should work from 1991 and older. I believe that B is the ECM diagnostic pin and G is the CCM diagnostic pin. Maybe someone with the Service Manuals for those years can confirm that.
As was mentioned earlier the C-4 has three computers; engine-HVAC (PCM/ECM or CCM and the brakes (EBCM). Each has their own diagnostic display procedure. The engine and brake (EBCM) computers use the ALDL while the HVAC uses the HVAC control panel on the dash.
To access most of the Diagnostic Codes for the brake system, with the vehicle stopped ground the H pin to the A pin (using the bent paper clip trick). Turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. In about 3 seconds after the pins are connected the computer will start flashing the code sequence beginning with 12. Each stored code will flash 3 times and after all codes have been displayed 12 will flash again.
12 Diagnostic System Operational
21 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
22 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
25 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
26 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
31 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
32 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
35 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
36 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
71 EBCM Fault
72 Serial Data Link Fault
75 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Short to B+ or Ground or Open Circuit
76 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Signal out of range or Incorrect)
Codes 41 through and including 63 can be read only using the Tech-1 or Tech-2.
As was mentioned earlier the C-4 has three computers; engine-HVAC (PCM/ECM or CCM and the brakes (EBCM). Each has their own diagnostic display procedure. The engine and brake (EBCM) computers use the ALDL while the HVAC uses the HVAC control panel on the dash.
To access most of the Diagnostic Codes for the brake system, with the vehicle stopped ground the H pin to the A pin (using the bent paper clip trick). Turn the ignition on but don't start the engine. In about 3 seconds after the pins are connected the computer will start flashing the code sequence beginning with 12. Each stored code will flash 3 times and after all codes have been displayed 12 will flash again.
12 Diagnostic System Operational
21 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
22 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
25 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
26 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
31 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
32 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
35 RF Wheel Speed Sensor Fault
36 RF Toothed Wheel Frequency Error
71 EBCM Fault
72 Serial Data Link Fault
75 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Short to B+ or Ground or Open Circuit
76 Lateral Accelerometer Fault (Signal out of range or Incorrect)
Codes 41 through and including 63 can be read only using the Tech-1 or Tech-2.
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krackenvette (12-11-2016)
#26
This info seems to good to be true.
I have a 94 and having intermitent brake trouble.
I lost brake pressure on Saturday at a Track day. I t has happened before, I just have to pump a little and get some braking action again.
Then I change a little of brake fluid and the car will work perfectly next day.
I thought that it was boiling fluid, but maybe the computer has something to do with it.
Maybe it is scared of Track days!
I have a 94 and having intermitent brake trouble.
I lost brake pressure on Saturday at a Track day. I t has happened before, I just have to pump a little and get some braking action again.
Then I change a little of brake fluid and the car will work perfectly next day.
I thought that it was boiling fluid, but maybe the computer has something to do with it.
Maybe it is scared of Track days!
#27
Drifting
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
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You are correct. No ABS in 85. 86 was the first year for ABS in the C4.
The 86-89 ABS system does not store codes. If your ABS controller sees a fault condition, it sets the ABS light in the dash telltale and quits operating. It is an All-Or-Nothing type of setup. The only tool that can scan the early (86-89) C4 ABS is the Kent-Moore J35890 ABS Test Tool, or the use of a 10 MegOhm multimeter and the Kent-Moore C4 ABS pinout box. Things started changing for the better in the 90 C4 ABS.
The early ABS system only releases pressure in the brake lines to counteract wheel skid. It doesn't apply pressure. If the rears are lasting forever (under utilized), I'd guess that there is a problem with sufficient fluid pressure being applied by the seperate master cylinder/booster circuit for the rears, or the ABS valves are jammed in such a way as to be releasing pressure when it shouldn't be doing so.
This is inaccurate info concerning early OBD-1 C4 ABS systems (86-89). There are no codes available via the ALDL for the 86-89 C4 ABS systems. There is no connection between the ALDL and the ABS on the early OBD-1 C4 ABS. The ABS controller was able to store codes starting in 1990-91. NO such capability prior to that. The early ABS system was very simple compared to the later versions. ABS changed significantly starting in 90. All 84-93 and most all 94/95 Vettes are OBD-1, that has nothing to do with the ABS system in use.
Wildride's post was misleading. What he posted does not work for ABS systems on early OBD-1 (86-89) Vettes. Nearly all 84-95 Vettes were OBD-1. The OBD1/2 version isn't significant for determining the capability of ABS used in a given year C4 prior to 96.
By federal law, all cars sold in the US were required to be OBD-2 in 1996. It was ok to start earlier, and some 95 Vettes were reported to have been released with OBD-2. Most 95s and some 94s have the 16-pin OBD-2 type ALDL connector, but most all are OBD-1 systems. The (required) emmissions sticker that states the actual OBD version in use, should be found on the radiator.
By federal law, all cars sold in the US were required to be OBD-2 in 1996. It was ok to start earlier, and some 95 Vettes were reported to have been released with OBD-2. Most 95s and some 94s have the 16-pin OBD-2 type ALDL connector, but most all are OBD-1 systems. The (required) emmissions sticker that states the actual OBD version in use, should be found on the radiator.
#28
Race Director
OK, thanks Mike!
Kinkajou, have you checked the booster rod at all? Perhaps it is to long witch leaves pressure in the system, creating extra heat. Having to pump the pedal could be pad taper to. Just some ideas.
Kinkajou, have you checked the booster rod at all? Perhaps it is to long witch leaves pressure in the system, creating extra heat. Having to pump the pedal could be pad taper to. Just some ideas.
#30
Melting Slicks
Come to think of it, my rear pads seem to last forever.
Maybe the ABS has sufficiently shut off the fluid to the rears, and that's why it is hard to stop, and the pads last a long time.
Sigh.......another area that The General kept a secret that I have to unlock.........
Maybe the ABS has sufficiently shut off the fluid to the rears, and that's why it is hard to stop, and the pads last a long time.
Sigh.......another area that The General kept a secret that I have to unlock.........
Mike, actually I came here looking for your screen name. I'm going to drop you another e-mail if you don't mind.
#31
Drifting
No. Unlike the PCM/ECM and CCM codes, when the battery cable is disconnected it will not clear the codes in the EBTCM. The brake computer (behind drivers seat) stores its own codes and you have to use the on board diagnostics going in to module 9 and use sub module 9.7 to clear the codes. Or use a tech 1 or tech 2 can do it to.
II’m not arguing with success, but a code is an indication of a fault or problem. The code can always be cleared but if the problem is not fixed, the code will be reset. The code is used to lead you to a problem area so the trouble can be repaired. So I don’t understand how clearing a code can make a brake system or for that mater, anything work better as if it was repaired.
II’m not arguing with success, but a code is an indication of a fault or problem. The code can always be cleared but if the problem is not fixed, the code will be reset. The code is used to lead you to a problem area so the trouble can be repaired. So I don’t understand how clearing a code can make a brake system or for that mater, anything work better as if it was repaired.
As far as the above statement and what I know about OBDII, I would agree... Resetting the codes on most systems as far as I know does nothing more than erase stored codes. The problem is not solved the only thing that changes is the computer forgets that it has the problem. Normally after driving the vehicle a few miles or so, the computer will rethrow the code anyway, but all the while the MIL light was off the problem still existed.
For the record, the brakes on my 89 SUCK! I've driven box trucks that stop faster and give you more confidence. Between my 96 Impala and the vette, I think its safe to say the Impala stops like an Indy car next to the vette. Something needs to be done.
DG
#32
Drifting
Member Since: May 1999
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Sounds like we have twin cars with similar problems at the same time. I bought the Kent Moore tool and it's pointing to a hydraulic problem on my '86. I'm wondering if the rear solenoid is restricting flow. That would also explain the low pressure to the rears when I flushed the fluid a while back.
#33
Melting Slicks
Mike, to release pressure to a caliper (and prevent a wheel from locking up) doesn't the solenoid in the module restrict fluid flow as needed? Unless I'm misunderstanding the ABS system, I thought that's how it worked. One guess was, the rear solenoid is stuck in the restrict mode which is reducing the fluid pressure to the rear calipers.
#34
...has anyone really drawn any solutions for "crappy brakes"?....geez, i hate to re-post my situation but, here it goes;
1988 vette,
new rotors,
stock pads,
multiple flushes ,
multiple bleeds,
vacuum booster check valve fine and has been replaced,
m/c replaced,
booster is holding vacuum,
no codes whatsoever,
abs initializes test sequence at +/-4mph,
all 4 flex lines at the wheels have been replaced with stainles steel,
no known or locked up or frozen calipers
***AND STILL, i have fred flintstone brakes!....
1988 vette,
new rotors,
stock pads,
multiple flushes ,
multiple bleeds,
vacuum booster check valve fine and has been replaced,
m/c replaced,
booster is holding vacuum,
no codes whatsoever,
abs initializes test sequence at +/-4mph,
all 4 flex lines at the wheels have been replaced with stainles steel,
no known or locked up or frozen calipers
***AND STILL, i have fred flintstone brakes!....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 08-03-2007 at 07:31 PM. Reason: spelling
#36
...upgrading for me is NOT an option as i simply don't want to! the design of the brake system SHOULD be able to abruptly stop my car. however, it doesn't as compared to every other car i have driven in the past 10 years including my totalled 81 vette which, if you applied the brakes, would send you through the windshield (had no abs).....
#38
Le Mans Master
I hear you.....I thought my brakes sucked from day #1 on my '89.....then one day the booster went out.....then my brakes sucked for real. I've tried new OEM everything & the brakes still suck even with a strong engine vacuum. Anybody run an extra vacuum reservoir?
#39
...in some cars running radical cams, vacuum is low and requires additional "storage" for vacuum and this may work.....the guy i gave this too had fred flintstone brakes like me and so many others however, it made little to no difference at all......this is for test purposes only and if it were permanent, caution should be exercised to shield the pvc from heat for obvious reasons....
Last edited by Da Mail Man; 08-05-2007 at 12:02 AM. Reason: spelling
#40
Drifting
Member Since: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
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Mike, to release pressure to a caliper (and prevent a wheel from locking up) doesn't the solenoid in the module restrict fluid flow as needed? Unless I'm misunderstanding the ABS system, I thought that's how it worked. One guess was, the rear solenoid is stuck in the restrict mode which is reducing the fluid pressure to the rear calipers.
The 88 FSM has a chart on page 5-3 outlining the possible causes for braking problems. There is no listing for "Fred Flinstone braking' but there are listings for 'Excessive Brake Pedal Effort'. The 2 primary causes listed are Leaking Vacuum System and Glazed Brake Lining. Also listed are: Restricted Brake Fluid Passage, Brake Pedal Linkage Interference or Binding, Restricted Air Passage in Power Head, Damaged Power Head.