Stock LT1:Intake manifold rests on block not heads
06-27-2007, 02:53 PM
#21
Le Mans Master
The notes for FPP-1255 state that it is for Gen I and Vortec heads
"Will not fit LT-1 and LT-4 applications."
But I wonder whether a motivated person could make it work?
FPP-1255: Composite, 2.110 in. x 1.08 in. Port, .120 in.
Versus
.
"Will not fit LT-1 and LT-4 applications."
But I wonder whether a motivated person could make it work?
FPP-1255: Composite, 2.110 in. x 1.08 in. Port, .120 in.
Versus
.
06-27-2007, 09:54 PM
#22
Racer
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I found that the factory ones were .060 too. Soooo what I did was simply bolt the intake on using the factory gaskets while I had my fingers and toes crossed. We will see what happens. I may be taking the intake back off. Good for me that I am quick at it though.
Hoobly, there are no water ports in the heads going to the intake on an LT as there are no water passeges in these intakes. They are dry intakes like the LS motors. I just wish there was a valley cover of some sort to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
Hoobly, there are no water ports in the heads going to the intake on an LT as there are no water passeges in these intakes. They are dry intakes like the LS motors. I just wish there was a valley cover of some sort to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
06-27-2007, 10:12 PM
#23
Race Director
I found that the factory ones were .060 too. Soooo what I did was simply bolt the intake on using the factory gaskets while I had my fingers and toes crossed. We will see what happens. I may be taking the intake back off. Good for me that I am quick at it though.
Hoobly, there are no water ports in the heads going to the intake on an LT as there are no water passeges in these intakes. They are dry intakes like the LS motors. I just wish there was a valley cover of some sort to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
Hoobly, there are no water ports in the heads going to the intake on an LT as there are no water passeges in these intakes. They are dry intakes like the LS motors. I just wish there was a valley cover of some sort to keep the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.
Is there any bolt holes on the bottom,that looks like it may have had a shield and someone left it off?
Just curious...good luck with your fix!
06-28-2007, 12:18 AM
#24
Le Mans Master
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FIY the typical LT1 intake is .0625 thick. You can use the GM Performance LT4 race gasket which is a bit thicker but it compresses down to about the same as the paper .0625 gasket, but the ports will not match up because of the larger LT4 race ports.
06-28-2007, 09:51 PM
#25
Racer
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Bill there is a "splash" pan on the bottom of an Lt intake, but it doesn't cover the entire bottom, so the intake still get hot from oil contact.
Well, so far the intake isn't leaking or showing any bad signs. I'll keep an eye on it for a little longer than just check on it later. So far so good though.
Well, so far the intake isn't leaking or showing any bad signs. I'll keep an eye on it for a little longer than just check on it later. So far so good though.
06-29-2007, 10:52 AM
#27
Melting Slicks
Mill the manifold and be done with it. I've seen quite a few that had too little of a gap. Dont know how many are factory screw ups as opposed to engines that have been tampered with, cause to me it doesnt matter. If its too close it just needs to be fixed.
06-29-2007, 11:54 AM
#28
Le Mans Master
How many hours does a shop bill to mill an intake
in your part of the world?
inevitability of delays makes engine machine work a perilous undertaking.
.
in your part of the world?
- flanges only
- flanges + front & rear
inevitability of delays makes engine machine work a perilous undertaking.
.
06-29-2007, 12:08 PM
#29
Melting Slicks
Go in and tell them what you want. If they know their shiznit, they will set up the intake on the table UPRIGHT, skim the top so its flat, then flip it over and mill the flats on the ends. I like a gap around .100. Doesnt matter if its a little more either way.
As an added bonus, you get the top of the manifold with a nice machined finish.
PS. Theres always the chance of effing up. Its important to develop a trusting relationship with something like a machine shop. Especially when you're in business and have stuff like this done all the time.
Just fyi, I dont use our automotive machine shop for stuff like this. I send it to a "real" machine shop.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; 06-29-2007 at 12:14 PM.
06-29-2007, 12:39 PM
#30
Le Mans Master
Unfortunately, real machine shops here are busy because of good times.
Plus, they have real, repeat customers who don't bring grief to their
doorstep like the one-timer often does. Sometimes they do work for
shops such as yours and count on the shop owner (you) to act as the
buffer between the machinist (them) and the end user (me).
For reference, an intake flange trim (nothing off the carb flange, nothing
off the front/rear lip) has been billed here at 3 hrs. The owner was
'pleased' to pay because the intake had already been pulled from two
others due to failure to perform. The 'expensive' shop at least met
their delivery commitment and did the work correctly.
Sigh.
.
Plus, they have real, repeat customers who don't bring grief to their
doorstep like the one-timer often does. Sometimes they do work for
shops such as yours and count on the shop owner (you) to act as the
buffer between the machinist (them) and the end user (me).
For reference, an intake flange trim (nothing off the carb flange, nothing
off the front/rear lip) has been billed here at 3 hrs. The owner was
'pleased' to pay because the intake had already been pulled from two
others due to failure to perform. The 'expensive' shop at least met
their delivery commitment and did the work correctly.
Sigh.
.
06-29-2007, 12:50 PM
#31
Melting Slicks
Unfortunately, real machine shops here are busy because of good times.
Plus, they have real, repeat customers who don't bring grief to their
doorstep like the one-timer often does. Sometimes they do work for
shops such as yours and count on the shop owner (you) to act as the
buffer between the machinist (them) and the end user (me).
For reference, an intake flange trim (nothing off the carb flange, nothing
off the front/rear lip) has been billed here at 3 hrs. The owner was
'pleased' to pay because the intake had already been pulled from two
others due to failure to perform. The 'expensive' shop at least met
their delivery commitment and did the work correctly.
Sigh.
.
Plus, they have real, repeat customers who don't bring grief to their
doorstep like the one-timer often does. Sometimes they do work for
shops such as yours and count on the shop owner (you) to act as the
buffer between the machinist (them) and the end user (me).
For reference, an intake flange trim (nothing off the carb flange, nothing
off the front/rear lip) has been billed here at 3 hrs. The owner was
'pleased' to pay because the intake had already been pulled from two
others due to failure to perform. The 'expensive' shop at least met
their delivery commitment and did the work correctly.
Sigh.
.
I started out working in a machine shop at the age of 16, part time.
By the time I was 18 I had a great deal of experience under my belt.
Now if I have to have something done right away, and "my guy" is too busy to turn it around in a matter of hours, I just go to his shop and do it myself. But most of the time I can fax him drawings, or take him a part and have it back within hours. Obviously not everyone has the same deal worked out.
