perrypeckslip

Ok car ran great for 2 years- about 2 weeks ago it was idling outside and after 5 minutes it stalled- never did that before. Wouldn't start up again. It has been starting sometimes, but mostly doesnt. replaced battery, cap, rotor, coil, and ignition module. When I turn the key, I hear a click for the fuel pump sometimes. If I spray starting fluid- it starts and runs for 5 seconds, then dies. Could it be a clogged fuel filter? Bad fuel pump? It cranks fine- I dont smell gas though? Could it be a fuel pressure regulator or pump relay? I miss drive my baby !! It's dead in the garage !!

vinnies87

Anytime you turn the ign, you should hear the pump, if you don't (sometimes) it could be the relay. Did you check the pressure at the rails? There is a way, don't have the link handy, that you can turn on the pump from the ADL connection (search function, Advance options, include 'archive posts', search C4 Tech and General) you should find it...
Plus there are tons of posts on the subject, and the search will give you tons of info... good thing to use.
Also if you don't have one already, get the FSM (Helms), your best reference going...

Additional: to menu bar "other" - Tech Tips C4 - alot of good info on fixes and testing... great reading and will help....

jfb

Put a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail. It should be 40 psi and stay there with the engine running. If the fuel pump or fuel filter are involved, the fuel pressure will drop as the engine quits. Also, when it won't start, unplug an injector and connect a noid light (available at parts stores). or a low power 12v lamp like a side marker lamp across the injector socket. When cranking the lamp should pulse showing the ECM is pulsing the injectors. Even though you have replaced a lot of spark stuff, use your timing light to determine if you have spark and spark at the right time. Unplug a plug wire and bring a grounded wire close to the plug wire end while someone cranks the engine a few revs. You should easily see a 1/2 inch spark.

coupeguy2001

ok, I just wnt through this today.
First, check codes. Fix whatever codes are represented.
second, attach the fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure.
1. when you first turn the key on, you should get the fuel pump to prime the system.
2. the place to check volts is the connector that is under the dash right by your right knee when you are in the driver's seat. The pin G is where you check. You should have no volts until the pump is called for.
then, battery volts under starter load.
3. If you get no volts, the fusible link could be at fault. The fusible link feeds the computer and the pump. Check the connector at the fuel pump relay, and look for volts on the green wire, and at the tan wire with the white tracer.
If you get volts, check the connector at the fuel pump connector. the fuel door unbolts with 4 screws, and remove the license plate if you can't seem to get your hands on the connector.
disconnect the connector. If you have a gray wire, it is the fuel pump power lead, if you have the tan with white tracer, then that is the power wire. The purple is the fuel gauge, and the black one is the ground.
4. find a good ground on the car somewhere, and then check for ohms at the connector on the black wire. Check both sides of the connector. if you have an ohms check wire that is no longer than 15 feet, you should get 1 ohm or less. If you have more, you need to repair your ground.
then put your meter on the gray or tan wire, and check for volts when the key is turned on.
If you still have no pump pressure, or noise, you have to remove it to find out why.

A. You will need to buy a fuel filler boot, a new gasket, pump, and a fuel sock for the bottom of the pump.
The pulsator is located between the pump and the tube. Remove it, and take off the plastic cap. there are orange bushings that the pump and the tube fit into. remove the orange bushings. If they fit loose in the housing, you need a pulsator. If not, reassemble it, and put it on the new pump, and reassemble the pump onto the tubes. add the sock.
make sure you make a note in your head how the sock is pointed.
Clean the gasket surfaces, apply grease to the tank surface and the gauge flange, slide the gasket on, and make sure it is oriented corectly, and slide it into place. the bolts on the left side are farther apart than the right side.
Then put grease on the bolt threads, and screw it all together. add the connector, and the hoses, and go watch the gauge.
B. Turn the key on, and watch the gauge. turn the key on a couple times, and prime the system. then start it.
C. the gauge should fluctuate a little but not much. the vacuum line should be on the fuel pressure regulator, and the vacuum hose intact.
D. you should get 38-40 psi with the vacuum hose on. With the vacuum hose off, it should jump to 45 psi.

perrypeckslip

I plan on changing the fuel filter this weekend first. Quick question- if I disconnect the fuel line after the filter before the pump and I turn the key- if gas comes out of the line- can I assume the pump is ok? And if it starts with starting fluid, doesnt that mean I have spark?

vinnies87

Starter fluid + spark = ign which it seems you have...
Search for the proceedure of draining the fuel line.... pop gas cap for a couple of hrs to relieve pressure.

billybonesmusic

Starter fluid + spark = ign which it seems you have...
Search for the proceedure of draining the fuel line.... pop gas cap for a couple of hrs to relieve pressure.



could be dangerous to open fuel line then turn on the key, do you have a fuel press gage? you might could rent one from your local parts store for free?

perrypeckslip

I do not have a pressure gauge, but I will see if my local advanced auto parts or autozone has one to rent. First thing in the morning, i am going to change the filter and see if it starts. Also jump 12v positive to g connector and see if pum energizes

AGENT 86

http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/En...ButWontRun.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/corvette86/Fu...mDiagnosis.pdf

perrypeckslip

Forget to mention after first time car stalled- I checked the plugs and they were pretty dirty. I was only able to change 6 of 8 so far. Would leaving 2 old ones in cause it not to start? Dont think so because it starts with starting fluid. Just a thought.

AGENT 86

You did test both injector fuses, right ??

perrypeckslip

I visually inspected them and they look good- guess I should change them both to play it safe. By the way- how do you get to the pump? I removed the 4 bolts and lifted off the door that covers the fuel filler neck- what next? Do I peel out that think rubber and the pump is below that?

AGENT 86

Yes, you remove the boot, the hose and electrical connections and then all the bolts around perimeter. Then you carefully pull the unit out.

coupeguy2001

first of all, if you take the fuel line off, don't turn the key if the car is inside the garage. not sure how your insurance is worded concerning neglegence.
1. the pump has a sock filter, and the car has another one under the right hand side behind the right tire near the r.h. exhaust pipe
2. neither of these filters will keep the engine from starting. if either of them are really bad, it will start then quit.
3. if the sock is partially plugged, the pump will have a hard time sucking enough fuel for wide open throttle operation, but the pump will be able to suck enough fuel to make the 40 psi.
4. if the main filter is plugged, the filter will act like a really efficient filter, and verrrrry slowly let fuel go through it, and the pump will build up pressure, the engine will start, but not maintain an idle.
5. use the pressure gauge, and a volt meter at the tank.
6. go buy a filler boot. you need some thin strips of metal to put in place to remove the perimeter edges, only to find out that the filler tube cuts it sliding over it.
7. be aware that the pump will not come out of the tank with the gas cap still in place.
8. be aware that the gasket will probably come out in one piece, but part of it will stick to the tank, and part to the filler flange, and any crap at the top of the flange will fall into your gas tank, contaminating your new pump sock.
9. go get a gasket, do not leave your tank open while you wait for a gasket. you have basically created a bomb. an open gas tank is a potential health hazard of the utmost proportions. do not leave your car in the garage without a flange and a cap on it.
10. clean the rust off of the tank and the pump flange, if you don't, your pump or gauge may not operate.
The best way to clean the tank, is to use masking tape upside down to catch and hold dirt, and corrosion while you clean the flange area.

perrypeckslip

Ok this morning I changed the fuel filter- car still we not start. Filter was full of fuel- so pump is getting fuel through- right? Advanced auto parts didnt have a fuel pressure gauge- but when I press in the valve- gas comes out. Sprayed starting fluid in it again and it ran for 10 seconds, then died- no fuel. Could the fuel pressure regulator be bad? If so is it hard to change? DOes the plenum come off easy to access it? I ordered a fuel pump relay for $20 just in case it is that? I did jump wire the pump and I hear it coming on just like when I turn the key- but no start. If the pump was bad- there should be no fuel at all in the lines- especially the filter that is all the way up front-is that right guys? I am trying to avoid changing the pump- if it clicks- does that mean it is working?

perrypeckslip

Ok got it to start !! Read some threads and pulled a connector on one of the injectors- started right up- ran a bit rough- I reconnected connector to injector while it was running and it smoothed out nice- check engine light is on with code 33- anyone know what that is- bad injectors? I am certainly not out of the woods yet

evmlarry

I believe Code 33 = your Mass Air Flow sensor.

Try to disconnect the MAF and see how well your car starts then.

perrypeckslip

ok waited 5 minutes- started right up and ran smooth- no check engine light now. Might be daring and take it for a ride later today. Do you guys think my injectors are bad or dirty? guess I can run some cleaner through them?

perrypeckslip

code went away so I am gonna not mess with it. Hopefully some injector cleaner will help it.

coupeguy2001

are you comprehending what you are reading? if it occurred once, it will return and when it is a hard failure. troubleshooting it when it's dead is easer than having it quit in rush hour traffic because you did not follow through.
running alongside spraying starting fluid into the intake to get it off the highway is no fun either.

let see what was that again???


oh yea

Race-on!!