quadracr

I have been looking at my new toy and have noticed the air pump isn't hooked up completely. The connectors for the exhaust manifolds are open. Air just blows right out the connectors insted of going to the headers. Only place it is connected is in the back of the intake. Since I doubt that a lot of air is actually making it into the intake, would it hurt to just remove the whole mess?
Not a big deal since I have already passed e-check and it even passed the visual

86PACER

What year vette?

You won't pass visual next time if you remove it all,l and then show up like that.

I removed the plumbing and kept it in a box to re-install every two years for smog.

quadracr

It's a 95. I don't know about not passing visual if I remove it completely. It passed and there were open connections on both headers and the air line.

87vette

Mine is completely removed as well and still pass without it up here in NY. My question is does it idle or run right with it open like that? I'm assuming you are talking about the air trees right above the exhaust manifolds? Here is an old pic of what I did with mine...

Hotred94

The air check valves or a plug should still be in the headers, otherwise you have an exhaust leak. That's a bad thing. You should remove the air system and reprogram the computer to delete it or you will get codes. The right side air pipe is also used as the EGR pipe. That is why it hooks into the rear of the intake manifold. The EGR system also hooks into the computer and should be left operational. It actually plays an important part in controlling heat and emissions unless you have a bigger cam in which case you can block off the manifold and delete the EGR from the computer also. As a Federal emissions control, these two devices cannot be legally removed in any state even though newer cars don't even have them any more. I'm guessing you either lucked out on the visual or the tech just didn't care.
Hope this helps.

CentralCoaster

I found it much easier to reinstall all that stuff if you hack the tubes up into a few pieces. Then just shove them under the accessories so you can't see the cut ends, and use the little hoses to hold them in place. I can do this without even removing anything. Installing them correctly is much harder.

quadracr

Nope there as open as a 2 doller *****. Funny thing there is no exhaust leak. The tubes that actually go into the headers are very small and they actually feel like it pulls a small vacuum. I checked it today. I have the LT4 Hot cam in it I believe and it does have a pretty good lope as well as a custom tune. I think I lucked out and the guy gave me a break because it's a Vette and it sounded good. Looks like I just need to make a block off plate for the EGR on the intake manifold.

86PACER

I hear ya. I did just that with the long one leading all the way to the cat (circled). The cut end is hidden behind the AC compressor and bracketry very nicely. A piece of hose on the tip eliminates rattling. Saves me from having to deal with the long pos line leading to the cat each time. The cut end is damn near impossible to see it even if you try to look for it.

The rest came off afterwards.

This will come in handy with the long center piece specially. I won't have to unbolt the AC braket and remove the air pump anymore and try to fish it out from under the fuel lines. Damn good idea.

CentralCoaster

Yup, I did the same. Put a small piece of hose on there to keep the ends from rattling.

86PACER

I stand.

CentralCoaster

What? Did I say that outloud?

86PACER

I'm psychic.

GIJoe

I had mine blocked off with these thick rubber caps that came with my BPP smog elim pulley kit.

Eike

My EGR is deleted on the chip. Which code would I get with a removed AIR? For the german emissions I had to disconnect the AIR pump and got no code ...


Best wishes from Germany
Eike

GIJoe

I have never gotten any codes thrown that have to do with this, and i have the stock ECU still.

williammackean

I'm removing (& plugging) my AIR system on my '85 this week. I found that it was the source of that hissing noise @ 2500 under load. Until I can afford the pulley kit, I plan on leaving the pump where it is. There are no emissions or inspections in MN, but I'm keeping the parts anyhow.

I found this problem by elimination.
1. Remove brake booseter line and test drive. Still there. Braking sucked. Wish someone had told me first.
2. Got an unlit propane torch and searched for leaks. Found none after 10 minutes. Got high from fumes. Happy I don't smoke. Openned garage door.
3. Removed tube from AIR pump and went on a test drive. NO NOISE! Decided I don't want to mess with finding the leak, so the system is comoing out! Took a but-ton of pics first, in case I need to reinstall.

Thrak

Sorry to bring this back up..

I just put the air pump delete kit on and am removing the rest of the junk... the diverter valve (I think) has a tube that goes down to the crank case (I think?)... do you just cap that off?

I assume also that the hose that goes from the diverter to the plenum (which has a T to the FPR) gets pulled and then a small hose is made from the plenum to the FPR, right?


On a side note, I found a perfect cap for the manifolds!! Went to HomeDepot and the 1/2" pipe cap found in the plumbing section fits absolutely PERFECT!

juanathandavid

are the pipe caps metal or rubber or plastic? got pics?

Thrak

They're metal... looks like this only the HomeDepot ones are are dark dark grey color..