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new trans in...clutch doesn't work...HELP!!

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Old 07-15-2006, 05:03 PM
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XQIZT
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Default new trans in...clutch doesn't work...HELP!!

Well, i finally got everything buttoned up....replaced the OD on the 4+3, bolted everything together and now the clutch doesn't allow me to shift. Had the GF press the clutch in and tried to spin the rear tires...nothing...it feels like its in gear. I really don't want to have to go through this whole removal process again. That drive line beam is a nightmare.

The clutch feels REALLY light, but the pedal does travel all the way down and back, but it doesn't feel like it is doing anything. Could this be a fork or throw out bearing issue? I just want to know all the possibilities before digging back into this.

TIA! I know someone out there has the answer.
Old 07-15-2006, 09:33 PM
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byebyeL98
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Did you have the hydraulics apart, too? If so, they are a pain to bleed, so you might still have air in the system. However, it sounds like either something isn't connected or there is no fluid at all if the clutch pedal is that easy to press.

If / when you attached the slave cylinder, are you certain the slave cylinder push rod made contact with the fork? It may have slipped off. This would certainly cause the symptom you are describing.
Old 07-16-2006, 10:01 AM
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i left the bellhousing alone...and i didn't touch the hydrolics...no matter what i have to slip the tranny out again. i'm thinking that it has to be something clutch related...and the only way to see that is to go through this all again....i'll be checking in thorugh the day, so keep the ideas coming...

one thing to add, i tested the 4 speed before i put it in the car. i spun the input shaft by hand and shifted into each gear, so the problem occured after the tranny was stabbed back into the clutch/motor...
Old 07-16-2006, 10:02 AM
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Pop the slave cylinder boot off the bellhousing and see if the slave piston came out of the fork or not.
Old 07-16-2006, 10:45 AM
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You may just have a coincidental failure of your hydraulics and may not be related to anything you've done. If your pedal is soft and you haven't touched anything up front, maybe it was just its time. If you have to replace either the master or the slave, replace them both! If one has gone bad the other isn't too far behind. But as stated above, make sure that the slave rod is engaging the arm first. Replacing the clutch master cylinder is truly a PITA. There's a small hairpin that holds the rod to the pedal that can't be reached by mere humans. You need hemostats or very thin needle nose pliers to put it on.

Good luck.
Old 07-16-2006, 04:10 PM
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I'd go with scorps suggestion, it's an easy thing to do.
Old 07-16-2006, 04:19 PM
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thanks all...turned out i didn't tighten the "hidden bolt" on the OD/4 speed seam, so it was dripping and i had to take it down anyway to check the rest of the bolts....

as far as the soft clutch...well...that'll happen if the thrust bearing that is supposed to be held by the fork falls off during removal and hides in the bottom of the bellhousing...

thanks all again...now i just need to get the shifter to go into reverse again (the shifter itself...even with the trans out of the car i can't get it to go into reverse over the gate)
Old 07-16-2006, 07:01 PM
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Hmmm... T/O bearing falling off. Yeah, I think that'd soften things up a bit!

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