rick lambert

good luck.

masterprice33

oh my god i can't stand this. So upon dicking around with the wires in the car now I seem to have a new problem. When we start the car after turning on the manual switch, idle goes up and down and the check engine light is on now, and every time I try to give it gas it wants to die. Sounds a lot like when I had the MAF sensor unhooked after replacing air filter a year ago, but we didn't touch the maf sensor. I'm thinking I might have to just throw this car away.

RRT vette

Check what the code is first and reply back.

masterprice33

The problem has gone away, I had a few fuses out, didn't realize this would cause this problem, so I put some new fuses in and it took care of that temporary problem, so no need to check those codes, BIG load off of my mind.

RRT vette

Soooo, where are you at on this vette, as of now?? Problem solved yet?

masterprice33

where i'm at....yeah I need to find another mechanic, the one I was working with has become extremely unreliable, meaning I can either never get a hold of him or he is never at his shop, so I'll have to find someone with some knowhow, otherwise I'll have to take it into a car shop somewhere, it just isn't good not being in a town where there is no vette specialist. I'm still hangin on the blown fusible link idea, if I knew how to find it I would try, I can't find where it is under the hood. Other than that, i don't know what else to do

RRT vette

I think you started this problem with the vette almost 2 months ago and it sounds like you further into trouble than you were to start with. It is way past time to find a different mechanic, or perhaps get to know you car and either borrow or buy some tools. Anywhere you take it is going to rape you, and it can be done almost free if you have the tools and any ability. Anyhow your decision...the fusible links are located between the firewall and battery and below the battery. You will see a post sticking up with many red (orange) wire connecting onto it. They are pieces of copper wire about 4" long inserted in series with the circuit and act like a fuse. The copper wire is 4 or more guages smaller that the circuit wire so that it will burn without damage to the circuit wire. You wil need a test light and voltmeter to test them.

rick lambert

RRT put it very well, get the car away from "mechanic" made me nervous just hearing he was using a Haynes manual.

If you have a chevy dealer, or NAPPA there, go get the fusible link..take the schematic I asked Ray to post (thanks again Ray).Come back here after that and we'll walk you through it.Instead of going through the entire wire loom, or searching for it we'll run it out side the loom from the terminal behind the battery to where it goes.Personally, I think this guy is just tapping your wallet, a good mechanic, or alot of us here using the FSMs would have had this thing up and running in a few days, maybe a few hours.

Blownfuel1

Also, although I know you don't have a Vette specialist there, are there any automotive electrical shops? They should be able to find this problem in nothing flat as well.

rick lambert

that's a good suggestion, almost posted that myself

masterprice33

Yeah I agree with you guys completely. In regards to the auto electric shop there is one in town that I believe has a good reputation. So would you guys suggest I do this instead of borrowing some tools and trying myself? I can honestly say I would probably be more comfortable bringing it to the shop, just was hoping that I wouldn't have to fork out more dough.

rick lambert

Can you drive it home? I'd get the fuseable link, some 10 and 12 gauge red wire and try myself. If you can remove the battery, maybe some crimping or soldering, use shrink tape, you can do it yourself. Once you have the battery out you'll EASILY be able to see the power tower. Like I said, take the schematics either to a dealer or NAPPA, latter being my choice. Get yourself a 12 volt test light and get after it.

If you're not comfortable...I'd get someone who is, auto electric shop.
Take your schematics to them and tell them you're not getting power to the fuel pump relay or the oil pressure switch...of course they're gonna want to go into the wiring loom, whereas if I were to do it, I'd run it outside the loom just to get it powered up, then later run it through the loom...that's just me though. Good luck.

masterprice33

as much as I want to do it myself part of me is just telling me to just go to the auto electric shop. I can drive it as long as I have the manual switch to the fuel pump on that the mechanic installed. it's still strange though...when i first had this problem I didn't need the fuel pump switch, it would just stall out randomly, and i was getting power to the fuel pump before...i'll just take it to the auto electric place.

rick lambert

I can understand your choice. Just remember to take the schematics Ray posted, I doubt they have a Helms or factory service manual, and it may save you a bundle of $$$. Let them know that the fuel pump relay provides power to the FP, and if it fails the oil presssure switch provides power to the fuel pump after cranking causes oil pressure in the neighborhood of 4 pounds, and that both are powered by the same fusible link. Hope this saves you some $$$.

masterprice33

thanks a lot Rick I'll make sure to do that. I'm hoping that this will save me a crapload of el dinero $$$

masterprice33

Well, the guy at the shop says that the whole distributor is F'ed up as he put it, and that's what was making the car stall. Said the prime cause was the pick-up coil, which I had so it saved me some money. Regarding the fuel pump issue not powering in the ON position, the guy still hasn't gotten to that point, but he believes it could be the fusible link also or bad connection at the harness. But it looks like I get to drive my car this summer after all, well for a few weeks at least