Head/cam swap: what have I forgotten?
06-02-2006, 07:21 PM
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Head/cam swap: what have I forgotten?
What else do I NEED? (not "might as well", don't say opti, water pump, etc.)
Current list:
heads
cam
intake
headers
58mm TB
Injectors
RR's
Rocker studs
Lifters
pushrods
guide plates
mufflers
bolts for headers, intake, heads
LT1 timing chain
LT4 knock module
Spark plugs
plug wires
160 t-stat
gaskets: headers, heads, intake, valve cover, timing cover, water pump
Mobil 1 oil and filter
Current list:
heads
cam
intake
headers
58mm TB
Injectors
RR's
Rocker studs
Lifters
pushrods
guide plates
mufflers
bolts for headers, intake, heads
LT1 timing chain
LT4 knock module
Spark plugs
plug wires
160 t-stat
gaskets: headers, heads, intake, valve cover, timing cover, water pump
Mobil 1 oil and filter
Last edited by 95wht6spd; 06-02-2006 at 08:49 PM.
06-02-2006, 07:58 PM
#3
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Twice as much money and three times the time you'd planned on. And that's if everything goes well! 
Lose the 160 degree stat, you don't want that.
Lose the 160 degree stat, you don't want that.
06-02-2006, 08:46 PM
#8
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Yes I will have it dyno tuned after, I am just concerend with parts right now. I won't be doing the work myself, so I want to have every thing when I drop it off.
Money is already budgeted, and I will come in at, or less than what I expected. I have already purchased most of the big items.
I am definately going with the 160 t-stat, almost every one uses one with this type of mod., and their cars run much cooler. It currently runs at about 198-200 WITH the fans on, I want it to be much cooler without the fans, and just use the fans if I really need them.
Money is already budgeted, and I will come in at, or less than what I expected. I have already purchased most of the big items.
I am definately going with the 160 t-stat, almost every one uses one with this type of mod., and their cars run much cooler. It currently runs at about 198-200 WITH the fans on, I want it to be much cooler without the fans, and just use the fans if I really need them.
06-02-2006, 08:51 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by TankerVette
coolant crossover tube or at least the crush washers
Don't know about this one, why would I need a tube? Crush washer? Is this a standard one that can be found any where or something specific?
06-02-2006, 09:01 PM
#12
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
Why, the 160 stat works great in my car?
06-02-2006, 09:19 PM
#13
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Coolant crossover tube runs from the back of each head then forward. The tube is real easy to damage when doing the heads...
Even if its not damaged, there are rubber crush washers between the tube and the head. This is definately a wear item that should be replaced.
I don't think the washers are "napa" items, but you should be able to get them from a dealership. Wish I had a part number for you...
this is the best i could come up with...
LT1 steam pipe behind heads (93-94) (includes bolts, seals, hose to radiator) = 10108635
Should point you in correct direction.
Even if its not damaged, there are rubber crush washers between the tube and the head. This is definately a wear item that should be replaced.
I don't think the washers are "napa" items, but you should be able to get them from a dealership. Wish I had a part number for you...
this is the best i could come up with...
LT1 steam pipe behind heads (93-94) (includes bolts, seals, hose to radiator) = 10108635
Should point you in correct direction.
06-02-2006, 10:54 PM
#14
Race Director
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
There are better ways to regulate overall engine temp then with a cooler stat. All it will accomplish is to cause it to take longer for your coolant and oil to reach proper operating temperatures which increases engine wear and also hurts overall efficiency. Alter your fan-on temps if you want to cool it down but don't increase the time it takes to reach optimal temps by putting in the incorrect stat. These engines were designed to run at warmer temps for a variety of reasons. 195-205 is about the ideal for them as an average.
Both recommended by Cartek and ECS 
06-02-2006, 11:24 PM
#15
Heel & Toe
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Maybe I'm stupid or something but I really don't understand why a 160 degree stat will make any performance difference.
Once the stat opens, whether it's at 160 degrees, 180 degrees, or 195 degrees, it's open until the coolant temperature drops below the designed temperature of the stat (160, 180, 195, etc.) These engines don't run at temperatures under 190 or so in any case so why install something which will only delay the coolant from reaching operating temperature for a very brief period?
Surely no one here has an engine which runs at less than 190 degrees after it's warmed up, do they?
Once the stat opens, whether it's at 160 degrees, 180 degrees, or 195 degrees, it's open until the coolant temperature drops below the designed temperature of the stat (160, 180, 195, etc.) These engines don't run at temperatures under 190 or so in any case so why install something which will only delay the coolant from reaching operating temperature for a very brief period?
Surely no one here has an engine which runs at less than 190 degrees after it's warmed up, do they?
06-02-2006, 11:27 PM
#16
Race Director
Originally Posted by Picabo
Surely no one here has an engine which runs at less than 190 degrees after it's warmed up, do they?
06-03-2006, 07:57 AM
#18
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St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by TankerVette
Even if its not damaged, there are rubber crush washers between the tube and the head. This is definately a wear item that should be replaced.
I don't think the washers are "napa" items, but you should be able to get them from a dealership. Wish I had a part number for you...
Hey, if y'all want to use 160 stats, go for it. It wasn't my intent to start that old argument again.
06-03-2006, 08:14 AM
#19
Race Director
I see headers and mufflers; what are you doing for the rest of the exhaust? Do you have emissions inspections in your part of NC? If so your going to need some cats, if the answer is no you'll probably need some welding skills or a trip to the local muffler shop for the hook up!
If you're providing all of the materials you need the following at the minimum:
thread locker (loctite)
thread sealer/sealant
anti-seize
coolant
and as an oh buy the way the right stuff to seal the china walls of your intake.
How old are your hoses?
If you're going to a good tuner you don't necessarily need the LT4 KM.
Mike
If you're providing all of the materials you need the following at the minimum:
thread locker (loctite)
thread sealer/sealant
anti-seize
coolant
and as an oh buy the way the right stuff to seal the china walls of your intake.
How old are your hoses?
If you're going to a good tuner you don't necessarily need the LT4 KM.
Mike
06-03-2006, 08:23 AM
#20
Race Director
Originally Posted by Corvette Kid NC
I replaced those washers with copper washers the first time I ever had my tube off. They work fine, have never shown a sign of a leak and are reusable.