Steering rack replacent...
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Steering rack replacent...
I just received a new Z-51 rack and will be starting the replacement soon on my '85. I did a search on "steering rack" and didn't come up with anything useful.
What's the difficulty factor in getting all of the air outta that thing? Is there a bleeding procedure for pre-installation or will the pump bleed itself after install?
Mtl
What's the difficulty factor in getting all of the air outta that thing? Is there a bleeding procedure for pre-installation or will the pump bleed itself after install?
Mtl
#2
Team Owner
Oncew the lines are in place and the rack tightened up, fill the reservoir with fluid. With the wheel straight ahead, start the motor and idle for 5-10 seconds. Stop the motor and refill the reservoir. Start the engine and let idle for a few seconds and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock. Stop the engine again and refill the reservoir.
If the pump sound noisy, it's air in the lines mixing with the fluid. You may see foaming in the reservoir but let the car sit for a couple hours to let the fluid settle and then add more fluid in the reservoir as needed.
I just got a new Z51 rack in my 87 and I used Red Line synthetic PS fluid. Don't use ATF!!
Now would be a good time to install new tie rod ends. You may find that getting the old ones out from the steering knuckle will take a number of whacks or a good pickle fork hit or two. AC Delco or MOOG ends are excellent replacements. You should only have to re-set or check toe-in after the new rack goes in. If you haven't done an alignment, you could have it done after the install.
If the pump sound noisy, it's air in the lines mixing with the fluid. You may see foaming in the reservoir but let the car sit for a couple hours to let the fluid settle and then add more fluid in the reservoir as needed.
I just got a new Z51 rack in my 87 and I used Red Line synthetic PS fluid. Don't use ATF!!
Now would be a good time to install new tie rod ends. You may find that getting the old ones out from the steering knuckle will take a number of whacks or a good pickle fork hit or two. AC Delco or MOOG ends are excellent replacements. You should only have to re-set or check toe-in after the new rack goes in. If you haven't done an alignment, you could have it done after the install.
#3
Melting Slicks
Craig Marcho has a nice write up w/pics in the tech tips section:
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/marc...k_replace.html
I just replaced the one in my '85 in Jan.
The only thing I would add is that the steering shaft actually telescopes making it easy to disconnect and move out of the way. No need to loosen or disconnect it at the top. You will need to lube the steering shaft until it slides freely.
Have fun.
http://www.corvetteforum.net/c4/marc...k_replace.html
I just replaced the one in my '85 in Jan.
The only thing I would add is that the steering shaft actually telescopes making it easy to disconnect and move out of the way. No need to loosen or disconnect it at the top. You will need to lube the steering shaft until it slides freely.
Have fun.
#4
Team Owner
you will want to get a long 13mm wrench. the right side retaining bolts are a bitch without them.
get crowsfeet sockets so you can remove the lines.
you will need a tie rod tool to remove the tie rod end from the steering spindle.
get crowsfeet sockets so you can remove the lines.
you will need a tie rod tool to remove the tie rod end from the steering spindle.
#6
Racer
I just did mine myself 3 months ago on my 88. I used a new GM rack also. I never had a problem with air; I rotated the steering wheel from left to right anyway just in case. For me this was a big job so I took my time doing it. I had problems getting the outer tie rods to knock out, most people hammer them out, and the alignment shop uses a puller. There's very little room to work with when you remove the lines; mine were on real tight so it was a PITA getting them off. I removed my alternator to get better access to the pump lines, besides I needed to do something to the alternator anyway. Here are a few extra things you might want to do since you're going in there. Flush all the previous fluid out, I did that by rotating the pump by hand. Change the hose from pump to rack. Change the hose from pump to cooler, if your car has one. Change all the bushings on the sway bar before you put it back, and make sure you grease the bushings and put the bar back properly since I've heard they can go on upside down but wont work. It's allot of work but well worth the hassle, you'll see what I mean when the front alignments done and you drive it for the first time.