flyersfan1088

I pulled the intake off my '86 last week to fix a vacuum leak. Now that it's back together again, it won't fire. It cranks and cranks, but not even a cough or sputter. I have 45psi at the fuel rail and the noid light shows that the injectors(4 months old) are getting power. I'm getting spark at the plug. Some people have suggested timing, but I don't care if it's 180 deg out of time, it will still pop and sputter. I get absolutely nothing. Any suggestions on what to look at next? Thanks

hz900

Only three things are needed

fuel
fire
air

All at the right "Time"

Other than that only thing I can think of is the vacuum hoses. I pulled the intake off my '86 I used to have one time and screwed up the vacuum hoses putting it back on and it wouldn't run. I did also just recently have an issue with setting my rockers to tight and my '90 wouldn't start, but you didn't mess with those so thats not an issue.

flyersfan1088

The distributor went back in the same orientation that it came out. Just for kicks I'm going to start over with TDC and make sure it's right. But like I said, even if it was 180 out, it would still make SOME kind of noise.

Jerris

Not so if you have the timing so retarded that it is fireing when the piston is almost all the way down on the compression stroke but the intake or exhaust valves are not open, you will get nothing as everything is working properly, only so far down on the stroke that it is just not producing any power to run the engine.

CFI-EFI

At 180° out, the spark fires when the piston is nearing the top of the exhaust stroke with BOTH valves open. A POP, under those conditions, is a lot to ask for.

RACE ON!!!

jfb

Break out your timing light and make it pay for itself !!!

flyersfan1088

Wouldn't the cylinder eventually fill with enough fuel to ignite? I know the engine wouldn't run, but wouldn't it sputter?

flyersfan1088

The car needs to idle before a timing light will be of any use

qws

I'm gonna agree that its a timing problem. I would start back at the beginning. Get yourself set back up at TDC and then use the timing light. At least if your at TDC the car should fire up.

steve1ph2

ok pull the distributor back out, pull the number one plug out have somebody crank the car over while you have your finger over the plug hole stop when you feel and hear the swish of air coming out of the plug hole. how do you know the piston is at the right stroke? look down at the timing mark indicator on the balancer the timing mark on the balancer should be between 12 and 0 on the indicator. at that point drop the distributor back in with the number one plug wire at the cap pointed as close as you can to the number one cyc. crank the car you will at least get a pop and maybe even a crank at that point assuming that was your problem. then you can advance or retard to keep the car running and finally get to use the timing light.

Jerris

No the fuel leaves the cylinder in the exhaust atroks so it cannot build up.

Joe C

let's see, he has fuel, he has fire, and unless he's living in outer space, he has air, so i agree with you, its a timing thing. sounds to me its 180-out -

flyersfan1088

Well, you guys were right. Even though the rotor was pointing in EXACTLY the same position when I reinstalled the distributor (and the car started and ran with no problems BEFORE I took it out), the timing was a full 90 deg off. I guess I just like to over-complicate things. It is SO nice to hear this car make noise again after collecting dust for the last 2 months in the garage. Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

Jerris

Congrats This is exactly as I discribed in my post above.
At 90* off the poston is at BDC with the valves closed, hence no popping etc.

Now go drive it and have some fun.

jfb

You clearly don't know enough about automobile engines. You can use your timing light to determine spark timing while cranking the engine with the starter motor !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!

corvette_bob

I'm glad the car is running and back on the road. A few years ago, when I 1st joined the forum, one of the threads that stood out was one where a guy did the manifold R+R and also had probs restarting. He traced it to an oil pressure sensor that had gone bad. Apparently, if the computer doesn't read enough oil pressure then it won't let the thing start.

Ray Quayle

Bob, I'll let the others take you through the ins and outs, but suffice it to say, that with respect to Steve's '86, this is just WRONG!

rick lambert

Well, steves problem is solved-I didn't respond because I would have said the same things-timing. But wow Ray, lets help Bob out with his thinking. Bob, steve had fuel, but lets say he didn't, the FP relay energizes the FP, if it's shot then the oil pressure switch comes into play, and will provide energy to the FP after engine cranking oil pressure reaches 4 pounds-if you still don't have fuel you can apply 12 volts in the ALDL which will energize the FP-if it's not bad, can't remember the pin right now-but no matter-trouble shooting flow chart tells which pin.

corvette_bob

That's OK guys,Ain't no busted cherries here! I've been wrong before. Just ask my wife. I knew when I posted it that it that there was not much chance of it applying the this '86. My reasoning was that he had everything else, why not the OPS? The biggest reason why not is that he'd had it all apart. With spark, air and fire, he shoulda been running. So it was more than likely the timing. BUT, since that had already been WELL covered by all of you guys, I was only attempting to pass along what I'd read right here on the forum, in '01.
Also as well pointed out by Rick, there is a series of events that take place in order for the OPS to come into play. Once again, my Half-century old, gas soaked brain missed on this.
I got no problem with saying I missed the boat (as usual), I appreciate you guys taking the time to give me the correct explanation.

CFI-EFI

WRONG!!!

How come people only read and remember the incorrect threads? Spend a few moments with your FSM and learn how it works.

RACE ON!!!