mn_vette

Hey guys,

My new rebuilt stroker has a 2 piece rear crank on it with a proper conversion main and everything. I want to convert my auto over to a zf-6 with a McLeod clutch, but I'm not sure if I can with this crank in there. Is there anyone that's done this? Did you have any problems??

It looks like the new crank sticks back about an extra 1/2" I would think this would cause some major problems. I would think that may have given me problems with my auto tranny if I didn't blow it up this weekend. The engine is going into the car next month.

I hope the experts can steer me in the right direction. Thanks.

bogus

I can't see why not... it just takes the right flywheel.

check with CentralCoaster. He did this swap in a 1985 with a 2pc rear main.

another thought would be to do a Keisler TKO conversion. $$ are about the same, and I think the TKO kit comes with everything needed.

CFI-EFI

The main bearing is the same. The automatic trans is the same, only the flex plate is different. Chevy didn't use the ZF trans behind a 2 piece seal engine, so the flywheel may take some investigation. It is probably a good idea that they changed the bolt pattern, because the balance is different between the 1 and 2 piece seal engines.

RACE ON!!!

0Robert Hall

Hello!

A Keilser Engineering TKO600 will work beautifully with your engine, and give you a great gearset with a .62 OD. The TKO600 is stronger than the ZF. Another thing to consider is the price to overhaul a ZF assuming you can find the parts.

Our PerfectFit kit will give you a complete, bolt-in kit with every piece backed by a warranty and a technical support team!

Please let me know of you have any questions!

Robert - The Driven Man
423-773-9789

CentralCoaster

I'd recommend any of the Keisler units if your time is the least bit valuable.

The ZF can be done on the 2pc but requires zf6 clutch hydraulics and clutch set on the stock flywheel. I don't know how the mcleod fw and clutch compare to oem dimensions, so I can't help you there.

Red at mcleod will tell you to buy his hydraulic throwout bearing, but it won't work on a 2pc crank vette, trust me.

Also, there is several changes to the clutch system during the zf6 years, so all parts aren't created equal there.

If you go the zf6 route, let me know, i'll tell you what year zf parts I used. My clutch engagement is great.

Here's an application guide to get you started...
http://webpages.charter.net/khasting...fo/zfswap.html

mn_vette

Sorry guys, I guess I should have mentioned that this is a '93 LT1. I'm guessing the ZF should bolt right in, I'll probably pick up a conversion kit from somewhere so all the parts will be from the same year.

I was mostly currious about the clutch and if it would fit in there and work properly.

bigcityvette

Do you guys check your email? I emailed your company about 2 months ago re: a 6 speed swap and no reply. I emailed you from your website.

mn_vette

I called Robert this morning. Seemed like a great guy. No problems getting a hold of him.

CentralCoaster

What is this exactly? 2pc crank with 1pc style crank flange?

mn_vette

It is a 2 peice crank in a 1 piece block. They make conversion caps for that. I'm not sure why my mechanic did that, but it was already off the dyno before I noticed it.

CFI-EFI

And it only took 10 pasts to dig THAT information out of you! That sure isn't what came to MY mind when, in your opening post you stated, "My new rebuilt stroker has a 2 piece rear crank on it with a proper conversion main and everything.". It took 5 posts just to get the year of the car. I don't think it is normal to ASSUME that a given set up contains crossbred parts.

RACE ON!!!

mn_vette

Sorry I thought I stated that it was a '93 in my origional post. but it is pretty easy to check someones sig if they didn't actually come out and state it. But in either case I guess I'll just have to call McLeod to find out if they can make me a clutch and flywheel to fit.

CFI-EFI

Nope. I don't see it. At least you didn't go back and edit the post and pretend it was there all along as some would do/have done. Post #1If you really thought you had posted the year in the original question, why did you post this on post #6:And when soliciting aid from others, it really isn't cool to expect them to. dig, as in: "but it is pretty easy to check someones sig if they didn't actually come out and state it" when it is much easier, simpler, and common courtesy to, "actually come out and state it". Besides, not everyone HAS a sig and not ALL sigs contain the year. Usually if one is relying on his sig to provde info to the readers, the writer will POST the sig.

RACE ON!!!

mn_vette

Not to be an ****, but who made you the edicate police?? I forgot to mention it in the first post, obviously. I made up for it by putting it in later. There is no reason to put it back in the first post because the people that are following the post aren't going to go back and re-read the frist one. I didn't expect them to go digging into my sig, I was just stating that if they were curious about the year they could have looked. Two clicks isn't that hard for anyone.

I've had a rough weekend, I blew up my tranny and got stranded in the middle of no where. I come back into town and get hammered by work the last thing I need is you jumping all over me for forgetting to post what year my car is. If you don't have anything positive or constructive to say about a topic why would you bother posting??

CentralCoaster

mn_vette...

If your crank has the old style flywheel bolt pattern, and you're buying a mcleod flywheel for it, and that flywheel is 1" thick, then everything I said still applies, and a pulltype clutch must be used.

Here's dimensions on the push type clutch on a 2pc motor with a late zf6 bellhousing. (This doesn't work with mcleods hydraulic t/o bearing, unless you make some other changes).

First, measure your block bellhousing surface to the crank flange, see if we're close.




I have the dimensions for the zf pull clutch, but haven't drawn them up yet.

Sleazy Rider

i put a 2-piece main seal crank in my zf 89' coupe 10 plus years ago and went with the mcleod aluminum flywheel and twin disk clutch assy and the hydraulic throw out bearing. i had no problem for the two years that i ran it, and still have the flywheel/clutch/to bearing stored in the garage. i just replaced my hydraulic line with the braided one and made a little adapter to mate up to the master, easy to bleed. it was no big deal to install.

CFI-EFI

Look at my first post. I was trying to help. Now that you finally explained the situation, my answer wasn't all that helpful. My crystal ball is still in the shop. I realize I was derelict in my duties by not checking to see if you had a sig. And digging it out. And if such a possible sig had the year, and also, if it explained the two piece seal crank in the one piece seal block? I brought up the lack of info, and that should have been that. But you had to make the excuse that "Sorry I thought I stated that it was a '93 in my original post", when you knew full well that a half dozen posts in, you said, "Sorry guys, I guess I should have mentioned that this is a '93 LT1". And then make it my (our) fault by saying, "but it is pretty easy to check someones sig if they didn't actually come out and state it" That is a pretty shabby way to treat people you are asking for help! Any more excuses? Justifications? I can keep going, if that's your goal.

RACE ON!!!

mn_vette

CentralCoaster,

That's a very cool CAD drawing. So what you are saying is that if I use the zf pull clutch it should work ok. I don't have any of the parts yet. I'm planning on buying the tranny later this week, so I can't really double check dimentions. Oh, and I got your PM, yeah I think you're right on that one.

Sleazy Rider,

I'm glad to hear someone else has done this already. I knew someone out here had to have. Just out of couriosity, would you mind spilling how much that setup put you back?

CentralCoaster

Sleazy's flywheel or clutch set doesn't match oem dimensions then, because Mcleods bearing is too tall to fit in the drawing there. I would ask him what he thinks on the aluminum flywheel, some have had bad experiences with it on the straight cut zf. Red couldn't tell me how his parts differred from stock, sizewise, but that my measurements are accurate and his bearing needs 2.25-2.35" of clearance, if I recall.


I suggest whichever way you do it, find someone who has done it, and actually drives the car in that form, and follow their parts list exactly.


Some of those who've done the swap posted advice immediately afterward, then had problems with their setup and made changes. Others will claim this or that works, but have some aftermarket parts that they're not mentioning. And more people who haven't even done the mod will tell you what fits and what doesn't when they should just shut up entirely.

CentralCoaster

Also don't buy a ZR1 tranny, it has a longer input shaft.