Fatt Vette

The twins are up and running! I took her for a quick spin around the block last Friday night, it runs very well. No hint of detonation, it is running a little fat and hunts at idle, but that problem was starting before I put the turbos on. I am producing a little over six lbs. of boost in the plenum according to the boost gauge. The waste gates have 9.8 lb. springs in them, so I guess I am losing around three lbs. through the plumbing and intercooler.

The passenger side turbo has an oil leak that will not allow me to drive it for very long. It's a very weird situation! The outside of the center section is completely dry, as is the outside of the turbine housing. The outside of the compressor housing and all of the surrounding engine and frame are drenched. The inside of the discharge plumbing is also bone dry, not even a film of oil . I have the oil inlet hose off to check for leaks and am going to check the fitting as well. Any other thoughts would be appriciated!

I will try to post more pics soon.

Chris, thanks for calling me out with the size 12 boot!

mn_vette

Check inside the downpipe, if the oil can't get out quick enough the first place that it seeps to is into the turbine. and out the downpipe.

Fatt Vette

I have checked that also. I removed the center section last Saturday; the inside of the turbine housing is nice and dry. That's what is weird, the inside of the compressor and turbine are dry, as are the discharge and down pipe. The outside of the turbine, center section, and the backing plate are clean. The inlet and outlet oil lines are clean, but the outside of the compressor housing, the side of the block and the frame rail are drenched! I am half tempted to blame the dip stick, but the top end of the engine is dry!

Thanks for the wisdom mn_vette

lcvette

thats alright man.. sometimes it takes some size 12 motivation to get ya back on track and get things done..lol

as for your oil leak, sounds to me like you are pressurizing the crank case, check to see if your dipstil tube is still in the block securely, you can try taping the dipstick in the tube to make sure it is not blowing out and shooting oil mist through its sheath. I am going to run the factory valve cover vent tube to a catch can and to the turbo inlet so that under boost when the PCV system closes off the crank case (which you need to make sure yours is doing also) the turbo inlet will supply vaccum to the crank case and the catch can with keep the oil from entering the inlet and coating the compressor and wheel as well as your charge piping. this is where I would start if you do not see any visible signs of oil coming from your feed and return connections. just some thoughts!

Chris

mn_vette

You also may want to check where the dipstick goes into the block. I've had many a leak from there. I've never figured out how to seal it correctly. I think this winter I'm going to pull the dipstick and jbweld it shut, the dipstick doesn't work right on my stroker with the aftermarket pan anyways.

lcvette

Brian,

I took a drift punch with a tapered opening and wedged the end that goes into the block out a little at a time until it just barely wouldn't go in the block, then clean it really well, put the tube in the freezer for about an hour or so and let it get nice and cold and shrink a little bit then pull it out and get it in the block fast with some light tapping, once she warms up she will be rigid, don't even need the bracket to support it anymore. thats helped me when I had a wandering dipstick tube from going to long tube headers and not being able to secure it to the exhaust manifold as the factory does and it seals nicely that way.

Chris

Baldturbofreak

the most common and annoying problem of FI.It's the entire reason I went to dry sump/vacuum. I think we should setup a kit that uses a moroso vacuum pump with the clutch/pulley from an A/c compressor. that way the vacuum pump will only run under boost. that will make it streetable. If not this oil battle will last forever. does anyone know of a electric vacuum pump that will pull 5 inches at 10 cfm?

lcvette

I have settled on a system that I think should work properly.. I am going to use Greg's (blowerworks) PCV valve, run the stock crank case evacuation tube in the passenger side valve cover to a catch can, have a one way check valve between the catch can and the turbo inlet pipe so that under normal driving the PCV is doing its job keeping the crank case unpressurized and the valve in the evacuation tube will close not letting air through to the crank case. when under boost and the PCV shuts off, the one way check valve to the catch can will open as the turbo creates vacuum in the air inlet tube due to filter restriction plumbing etc... I think this way you keep the crank case completely unpressurized at all times. of course I will need to check vacuum from the inlet tube to see if it will be sufficient, but I think it should work!

Chris

LT1Vetteguy78

Just a question, why go through all that trouble and expense for a TT to run 6psi when you can do an Superchager and run 10-12psi for half the cost and like 1/10th the time?

Or do you plan on running like 14-20psi?

Fatt Vette

Please don't think I am trying to sound like a smart ****, but I have already done that. This car has had a 454, 502 w/nitrous, 350 w/roots, 350 w/centrifugal, and 350 w/nitrous. I am a tinkerer by trade.

It was just something I wanted to do.

The 6 PSI is only temporary; I will turn the boost up to 10 PSI and see what lets go!

86C4Z51

Did this setup survive? I haven't found any more on it other than the earlier threads.

dclafleur

I hadn't seen Fatt Vette in a loooong time so surprised to this thread. It ran for some time and was a great looking car but unfortunately it isn't around anymore.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/g/album/1245754

ANTI VENOM

Whoa!!!!! Do you have any more info about the cause of the fire?

JrRifleCoach

And that's why I always carry a fire extinguisher!