C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

CODE 32. Bad EGR?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-15-2005, 11:56 PM
  #1  
6speedshifty
Intermediate
Thread Starter
 
6speedshifty's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2004
Location: California
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default CODE 32. Bad EGR?

Hi everyone,
I have a '90 L98 6-speed, as I was driving home today the check engine light came on. The computer spit out a code 32. Does anyone have experience with this problem/fixing it? The car has developed a rough idle and a miss once the car is completely warmed up. Would the EGR alone cause this? I need to get is smogged in about a month (I hate California) so I want to get everything straight before I take it in. Thanks for the help.
Old 04-16-2005, 12:14 AM
  #2  
65Z01
Team Owner
 
65Z01's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2000
Location: SE NY
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 0
Received 300 Likes on 274 Posts
Cruise-In II Veteran

Default

It sounds like the EGR diaphram may be leaking, in which case you will need to replace the EGR Valve.

There is an EGR test sequence on my site to isolate the problem to either the solenoid or the valve.
Old 04-16-2005, 12:44 AM
  #3  
ls5454
Advanced
 
ls5454's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Don't know if it helps, but I got a code 32 and quickly found an abraided vacuum line between the solenoid and valve under the plenum- $16
Old 04-16-2005, 01:54 AM
  #4  
Morley
Drifting
 
Morley's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: GA
Posts: 1,923
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Yes, check for vacuum leak in the EGR system. Then put an inspection mirror under the EGR valve so you can see the underside of it. Disconnect the vacuum line to it and use a vacuum pump (mity vac, etc) and apply vacuum while watching in the mirror for the valve to open. If it opens, stop pumping and see if it will stay open (for 30 seconds or so). If it won't stay open or doesn't open..replace the valve. If it opens and wil hold hook it back up and find the vacuum supply line going to the solenoid, start the car and check for vacuum on the supply line, if ok..... Hook a DVM to the solenoid wires with long leads, have someone with you and go for a drive, have them monitor the volt meter and note if they got voltage just before the check eng light comes on. If they got the voltage reading then you have 2 possibilities, bad solenoid valve or a bad MAP sensor (could also cause the other problems you have) If you didn't get a voltage reading and the check engine light did come on, check cont. on the EGR solenoid wires, specifically the wire going to the ECM.
Kinda long, but that's the best way I know for doing a good check on the EGR system.
Old 04-16-2005, 10:32 AM
  #5  
rick lambert
Le Mans Master
 
rick lambert's Avatar
 
Member Since: Oct 2003
Location: seattle WA
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

I was throwing a code 32-after alot of reading and research I replaced the EGR switch-which is said to be the culprit about 90% of the time-worked for me! it's an inexpensive little guy-I just removed the old switch and spliced in the new wire.That's on an 87, if your 90 has a switch-that's where I would start.

Get notified of new replies

To CODE 32. Bad EGR?




Quick Reply: CODE 32. Bad EGR?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:42 AM.