Ignition key won't turn off car - starts fine
#1
Ignition key won't turn off car - starts fine
I replaced the coil and forgot to plug in the tach and power wires so it wasn't starting but thanks to another thread with photos, I saw my stupidity and resolved the starting issue. She now purrs like a kitten.
However, now the problem is that I can't turn the car off from the ignition switch so I have to wonder what else I forgot to plug back in or accidentally knocked off.
The only unplugged wire I can see around the distributor is the brown tach wire which has 2 plugs, one is plugged in but the other has no place to plug it into that I can see. Any ideas? Or might the problem be elsewhere?
The ignition switch did work perfectly fine before I replaced the coil.
Cheers!
However, now the problem is that I can't turn the car off from the ignition switch so I have to wonder what else I forgot to plug back in or accidentally knocked off.
The only unplugged wire I can see around the distributor is the brown tach wire which has 2 plugs, one is plugged in but the other has no place to plug it into that I can see. Any ideas? Or might the problem be elsewhere?
The ignition switch did work perfectly fine before I replaced the coil.
Cheers!
#3
Advanced
If the car won't shut off with the key then how do you shut it off. I would
guess that you disconnect the red power wire at the coil. The red wire is getting power from somewhere even if you have the ignition switch in the off position.
What is the tach doing while running? Does it work normal?
You need to find out which terminal on the ignition switch powers the coil in the run position and make sure it does not have power on it all the time. It should only have power when the switch is in run position.
It does not matter where the 12V comes from but if the coil has it, the car will run until it is disconnected. Is it possible you are back feeding the coil 12V from another source than the ign switch?
guess that you disconnect the red power wire at the coil. The red wire is getting power from somewhere even if you have the ignition switch in the off position.
What is the tach doing while running? Does it work normal?
You need to find out which terminal on the ignition switch powers the coil in the run position and make sure it does not have power on it all the time. It should only have power when the switch is in run position.
It does not matter where the 12V comes from but if the coil has it, the car will run until it is disconnected. Is it possible you are back feeding the coil 12V from another source than the ign switch?
#4
Start working out why
It won't ,with as he says ;
the brown wire tacho disconnected from the tacho filter
In any case the tacho wire is on the Neg / ground side of the coil
#5
Race Director
That's an interesting problem. Obviously the distributor is still getting power or it wouldn't fire the spark plugs.
The fuel pump stays on because the oil pressure switch is closed.
The part I think is intriguing is that I would think the ECM would shut off the injectors when the ignition is off. It uses the DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses) to synchronize the injectors to the rotation of the engine. DRPs are produced whenever the engine is rotating (and there is power on the distributor), so they are still going to the ECM. Hmmm…
What happens if you pull the "ECM/IGN" fuse when the ignition is off and the engine is still running? Pulling that fuse will open the connection from the ignition switch to the ECM. You could also probe that fuse to see if there is power on it when the ignition switch is off.
You DO have the red wire on the "BAT" terminal of the distributor cap I hope. The TACH and BAT connectors are keyed so they shouldn't go on the wrong pin, but brute force wins out...
The fuel pump stays on because the oil pressure switch is closed.
The part I think is intriguing is that I would think the ECM would shut off the injectors when the ignition is off. It uses the DRPs (Distributor Reference Pulses) to synchronize the injectors to the rotation of the engine. DRPs are produced whenever the engine is rotating (and there is power on the distributor), so they are still going to the ECM. Hmmm…
What happens if you pull the "ECM/IGN" fuse when the ignition is off and the engine is still running? Pulling that fuse will open the connection from the ignition switch to the ECM. You could also probe that fuse to see if there is power on it when the ignition switch is off.
You DO have the red wire on the "BAT" terminal of the distributor cap I hope. The TACH and BAT connectors are keyed so they shouldn't go on the wrong pin, but brute force wins out...
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 01-26-2014 at 12:06 AM.
#6
Thanks so much for the replies fellas.
I finally got back to working on this. I pulled the coil, ignition module etc. off today to get to the bottom of it and took a bunch of photos. I may have several wires the wrong way around. The car has been sitting so the clips are fragile and break and things can go on backward. Attached are photos of everything.
I also had the ignition module tested at AutoZone and it "seems" ok but we tested a new one as well and their equipment is a little whacky. Seems the old one tested better than the new but it didn't pass all the tests. I might just pick one up and replace it anyway. They're only $30.
Your insights are appreciated!
I finally got back to working on this. I pulled the coil, ignition module etc. off today to get to the bottom of it and took a bunch of photos. I may have several wires the wrong way around. The car has been sitting so the clips are fragile and break and things can go on backward. Attached are photos of everything.
I also had the ignition module tested at AutoZone and it "seems" ok but we tested a new one as well and their equipment is a little whacky. Seems the old one tested better than the new but it didn't pass all the tests. I might just pick one up and replace it anyway. They're only $30.
Your insights are appreciated!
#7
Race Director
The black ground wire in the second picture doesn't look right.
[ EDIT ] On second look, it might be OK if it goes into the coil. [ /EDIT ]
Also, the ground pin in the center position seems to be missing. Check these threads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1586137879-post261.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ing-strap.html
[ EDIT ] On second look, it might be OK if it goes into the coil. [ /EDIT ]
Also, the ground pin in the center position seems to be missing. Check these threads:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1586137879-post261.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...ing-strap.html
Last edited by Cliff Harris; 02-16-2014 at 03:20 AM. Reason: Added note on black wire.