Getting a power surge AFTER I shut the key off on my '85 Vette. Dash lights go out and then back on AFTER the key is off. I pulled the [b]Guages fuse and the problem went away. This fuse powers a number of circuits including the MAF, EGR solenoid, etc.
This a short ?? Anyone have a suggested troubleshooting path ??
Location: just north of Brisbane Queensland, AUSTRALIA
That doesnt mean a single thing mate. The MAF is not self powered, so unplugging it wont tell you anything. If the MAF is unplugged, this wont stop the burn off relay from coming on.
Hmmm.. the old system (870 computer) had a relay behind the passenger dash pad. Believe the 165 system that we upgraded to a number of years back did not use this relay.
Hmmm.. the old system (870 computer) had a relay behind the passenger dash pad. Believe the 165 system that we upgraded to a number of years back did not use this relay.
Location: just north of Brisbane Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Behind the battery i think it is, there is 2 of them that look the same, one is MAF power, one is MAF burn off, unplug them both and see if the problem still occurs. (the car will probably run very poorly with them unplugged)
When I pull the 'Gauges' fuse, the problem goes away... it must be something with that circuit. And yes, the MAF is on that one... along with the EGR and etc.
I'd be more inclined to suspect the ignition switch, it's linkage (rod) to the key or a short to voltage on the output side of the switch. Gages fuse (along with several others including the Cluster Fuse) is powered up when the switch is in the Run, Bulb Test or Start Position. Off is off - no juice. I'd drop the column, remove the linkage and operate the switch manually to narrow it down. If it works right with the linkage or rod disconnected, you'll know it's something between the key and the switch (the switch probably just needs to be adjusted). If not, wriggling the wires around might reveal the intermittent. You want to pay attention to the Pink or output to the Gages Fuse, etc. If that doesn't reveal it, put your DVM on the Pink wire at the switch. Should be 0 volts with the key off. If it isn't, blowing it out with some compressed air and applying some electrical contact cleaner might fix it. Otherwise, replace the switch.
Purchased a new ignition switch a few weeks ago, assuming that this was the culprit... guess I need to go ahead and try your tests... make sense to me. Thanks for the input. Now if I could just find someone about a foot tall to get in there and change it !!!
Dropping the column makes it a snap. Remove the hush panel and tilt lever. On some, the key has to be in the on position. Then two bolts in the carpeted part and ease it down.
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Power Surge after turning off key...
