I recently heard of an oil that u dont have to change for 1 yr / 25000 mile if you get their filter you do have to change that at 12500 or 6 mo. i didnt think anything about it till i saw a local vendor and was reading about it. it is supposed to be made with i think it is called basestock or something the purest oil to make synthetics out of. was this the first company to come out with synthetic oil. how much of this do i believe? i would like to. its fairly exspensive but if it saves the engine and time im up for it.
I haven't tried the engine oil , but i do use there synthetics in my transmission...
Mo
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96 Black Coupe, Electric, Netgain 11HV electric motor 300v 2000A Zilla controller, 300v 2400a XS Power Batteries, ZF6 6 speed, QA1 Coil Overs,www.ndneyes.com/or for non electric www.ndneyes.com/mo
It is my understanding that a filter takes out the larger particles in the oil. The oil itself suspends the smaller particles such as carbon in the oil. If a manufacture built a filter (pint size in our case) with such tight clearances to filter out carbon (which is the main reason to change your oil) it would plug up very quickly. I could be wrong but that is my opinion.
One other thing I wanted to say about amsoil, A few years back I was at Carslisle and they had a rep there selling the oil. I stopped and waited in line as I was wanting to get their transmission fluid to use in a chrysler. (they claim theirs is universal and will work) Well anyways a guy in front of me was asking why it is not sold in stores. The rep said the parts market has kept it out of the stores, he went on to explain this conspiricy theory as the oil is so good that parts never wear out and parts sales would go way down. Therefore the parts manufactures have kept it out of stores.
Well anyways after hearing this I got out of line and went on over to the redline dist. and found they actually made the chrysler spec. fluid for chryslers. Purchased it.
Back to your issue at hand, I would continue to use a good oil off the shelf and change it and filter at reg. interverals.
I run Amsoil in everything I own. 87 C-4, 01 Tundra, 02 Metro, 87 Force 125HP outboard 2 cycle of course. Having said that, I am simply relying on what a machine shop owner has told me as well as what independant labs report.
I take all of my machine work to a local machine shop and deal with the owner and his sons who operate the machines. He does most of the rebuilding and machine work for the city, Police cars. He stated that they have been running the Amsoil 10-30W with the Amsoil filters and change at the Amsoil recommended intervals. The engines come in for rebuild and when torn down the wear is much less than before they switched to Amsoil.
I also pay $25 a year to have an outside lab to breakdown 4oz of used oil and tell me whether or not to keep using the oil. I send a sample off every six months. This I do on the tow vehicle which I have one of their 1 micron bypass filters in conjunction with screw on 5 micron standard filters. Plus, Amsoil's warranty is to pay for the repair of the motor if it is caused by their lubrication failure.
Each of us have to make our decision about what oil to run and mine is take advantage of the oil's advantages and hope Amsoil will keep their word on the warranty if the oil isn't as good as they say.
Rather then blend into PAO basestocks, Redline starts off with a predominately ester basestock, which is superior. Amsoil is more comparable to Mobil 1. In a Corvette, any good synthetic will give you more engine life then you'll live to see, however, Redline and in particular German Castrol will out perform Amsoil. You also have to know what specifications are important. High Temperature High Shear is very important and Redline has the best of the best. These guy's know what they are doing and have more experience and feedback from race teams then any other small oil company. Amsoil is a fine oil and has some that are excellent and some that are just OK.