Well I thought I would have gotten rid of the datamaster dtc err....
I previously broke the coolant sensor when trying to do a pulley change. I replaced it and now it registers but still gives me a dtc error, citing #15. I replaced it with a borg warner sensor from pep boys. The coolant temps look to be correct(on the datamaster screen) yet it's still giving me the error code. What gives?
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2004 Jaguar S type R. 4.2L V8 w/ Stiegemeier Snakebite Eaton M112 w/Alky Injection. H&R springs...
92 383, CNC'd LT4 top end, auto, custom vortech YSI trim, progressive alky kit, brembo 13.5's, magnesium speedline 18"'s with 275/335s, 7.30's@97 in the 1/8 (old combo)... The build up of an Low 10 second daily driver.
89 Saleen Clone with a 335" T trim'd blower motor. DFI, CNC'd victor jr's, vic 5.0. Was shooting for high 9's and 740 rwhp. Gone, but definately not forgotten...
15 usually means the signal or ground wire is open. Check the wiring by jumpering the harness terminals to see if it generates a 14. If not, check for 5 volts on the signal wire and check ground for an open. If you don't get the 5 volts, check for it at the ECM to confirm or rule out the wire. If it isn't at the ECM, you'll need a new ECM. Ground for most years is shared with the TPS and MAT, so if you don't have those codes, you only need to follow it back through the harness to the splice.
on a side note... the check engine light went off when I changed the engine coolant temp sensor.
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2004 Jaguar S type R. 4.2L V8 w/ Stiegemeier Snakebite Eaton M112 w/Alky Injection. H&R springs...
92 383, CNC'd LT4 top end, auto, custom vortech YSI trim, progressive alky kit, brembo 13.5's, magnesium speedline 18"'s with 275/335s, 7.30's@97 in the 1/8 (old combo)... The build up of an Low 10 second daily driver.
89 Saleen Clone with a 335" T trim'd blower motor. DFI, CNC'd victor jr's, vic 5.0. Was shooting for high 9's and 740 rwhp. Gone, but definately not forgotten...
update... the funny thing is when the sensor was not connected at all, the car would cold start fine and then run rich once it was hot because the sensor was reading about 30 some degrees. Now that it's fixed, the car starts like crap when cold (how cold could it be here in CA where it's 80* in the morning) and runs fine afterward once hot. When started cold now it idles really low and feels like it's not running on all 8 cylinders. This is so wierd....