Albert C4

How hard is it to replace all of the weatherstriping? The trim on my '88 is sun-destroyed and it all needs to be replaced.

Jet-Jock

Are you referring to the weatherstriping? If so the actual process is not difficult. It is labor intensive to remove the old adhesive and pieces of weatherstrip after pulling off the old. But there are chemicals from 3M and an inexpensive tool kit to make the job easier.

1quik91

piece of cake

LT-4 CE

It takes a while, but is not technically difficult.

Albert C4

Fixed. I meant weatherstriping. Thanks.

1stC3Vette

I replaced the rear hatch weatherstripping on my '89. It only took about an hour. The key is to get a good replacement piece. I had to watch the bends around the rear corners. I used some of the low adhesive blue tape to keep it in place over night. I also installed the drains that go in at the corner of the body so water would not accumulate their anymore.

I just purchased the door trim and will be putting that on in the spring. The job does not look hard at all.

Good Luck.

Dino

JCD

Weatherstripping ain't cheap...

DINO

I thought it was a pain in the azzzz ! But not difficult .

Moxxi

So, where did you end up buying the replacement piece? And what did it cost you?

93convtLT1

take jetjocky's advice, 3M makes a chemical that eats the glue and releases it from the metal. I purchased all of my weather stripping on ebay for my convertible, altough my eperience was great (and I didn't buy the cheap ****) I have read some threads from other members making complaints

Jet-Jock

I used Chris at Superior. About 180 for front w/s and the same for rear pillar. 1-800-728-8267

I'll see if I can find the detailed post I put in the Tech section.

This might help....

Most of the Vette vendors sell a tool kit for the job. They are definitely a must have. 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive, 3M Adhesive Cleaning agent, 3M Adhesive Releaser. Also locate your local professional paint and body supplier, you'll need a tube of 3M Automotive Bedding & Glazing Compound (08509). Its like a tube of caulking and use your standard caulk gun.

The weatherstrip installs like a tongue and groove. You remove the push in fasteners, its a good idea to get some new ones too. Then just peel out the old weatherstrip the releaser helps. Then you'll spend some time cleaning out all the excess material and adhesive. Once that is done, soak your new weatherstrip in a bucket of soapy water (I just used the Zaino Z7 I use to wash the car) and trial fit it. Then there is a channel that runs vertical on each side and horizontal. At the ends of each channel you apply a liberal amount of glazing compound. Then apply your adhesive in the channel. Soak the new weather strip in soapy water again. Start at one end and feed one edge of the base of the weatherstrip into the channel and press the other side into the opposite side of the strip. For example if your doing the windshield one, insert the rearward side first then work the front side in as you work your way around to the opposite end. Insert new fasteners and your done. You'll have time to work with it some, and you want to make sure you get it all set in evenly. Otherwise once it does dry its in there.

You spend probably a couple hours getting the old weatherstrip out and cleaning it all up. That is for each segment. Installing the new strip doesn't take too long though, it goes pretty quickly. If its a coupe the rear pillar is a lot easier than the front windshield only because its not as long and as much to manipulate.

Let me know if this helps and if you have any other questions. Good luck.

CG77VETTE

[QUOTE=Then apply your adhesive in the channel. Soak the new weather strip in soapy water again. Start at one end and feed one edge of the base of the weatherstrip into the channel and press the other side into the opposite side of the strip.[/QUOTE]

Do you install the new weatherstrip wet or do you let it dry? What does the soapy water do? Thanks for the info.

Jet-Jock

Wet it dries. I believe makes it easier to fit it into the channels. Its the procedure from the service manual.

JrRifleCoach

First the gasket was unpacked and allowed to relax after being crunched in the shipping box. Then waited for a sunny day to allow the gasket to soften. I found and marked the center of the halo side and the rear side of the gasket. Starting with the center of the halo side I stretched to fit down the halo arch to each corner. The trick was to lightly tap the gasket in place with a wooden hammer handle while stretching it. Next locate the center of the rear section and again stretch it and tap in place towards the corners. Once the gasket was fully seated I coated it and the hatch glass with Meguires rubber treatment to allow the glass to slide on the gasket while the hatch is being closed. It took a few trys to ensure the gasket was seating properly as the hatch closed. The sun did most of the work for me and I left the car parked in the sun for a coupla hours before trying to reopen the hatch. Now it seals like charm.

One step I ommitted was having to readjust the hatch lock to compensate for the new gasket. You may or may not need to do this.

Good Luck -JRC-

myvettesblue

ireplaced the outer door rubbers on mine. you have to romove the door panel drill out the rivets and you need a good rivet gun with a long shaft to get back into the holes. but all in all it wasnt to bad i will be replacing the rest of the stripping on mine this spring

OzzyC4

I have read that so and so brand is no so good, so WHAT is a good brand? Is Metro a good way to go?