Is it worth it? Advice Please!
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Is it worth it? Advice Please!
Hello i have a 1995 LT1 Corvette that i traded my father for so it has sentimental value (problems existed during trade).
Information
-Body / Interior 100% great shape
-Rebuilt Trans less then 3k miles
-Cooling Issue
-Rod Knock (needs rebuild or crate engine)
-Sitting for one year
I Love this car & the fact i got it from my father makes it so much sweeter
Unfortunately i am starting to feel discouraged and wondering if it is worth it. For a rebuild & labor i am looking at a little under 10k & around 8k for a crate engine w/labor & warranty. I am starting to put the money together although i am starting to wonder if i will be a lot better off going to a C5-6
Also if you are in MD and know anyone who can do it cheaper & reliably please let me know
Information
-Body / Interior 100% great shape
-Rebuilt Trans less then 3k miles
-Cooling Issue
-Rod Knock (needs rebuild or crate engine)
-Sitting for one year
I Love this car & the fact i got it from my father makes it so much sweeter
Unfortunately i am starting to feel discouraged and wondering if it is worth it. For a rebuild & labor i am looking at a little under 10k & around 8k for a crate engine w/labor & warranty. I am starting to put the money together although i am starting to wonder if i will be a lot better off going to a C5-6
Also if you are in MD and know anyone who can do it cheaper & reliably please let me know
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yakmastermax (04-22-2024)
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iceman2003 (04-23-2024)
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#6
Instructor
Rebuilt Trans less then 3k miles
Automatic?
If so are you absolutely sure it's a rod knock?
My rod knock turned out to be a converter bolt was loose
I replaced them all and used lock tite
Found out latter my trans was rebuilt about 5k before I bought it
Just a thought
Good luck
Automatic?
If so are you absolutely sure it's a rod knock?
My rod knock turned out to be a converter bolt was loose
I replaced them all and used lock tite
Found out latter my trans was rebuilt about 5k before I bought it
Just a thought
Good luck
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Vicious_Cycle (04-30-2024)
#7
Burning Brakes
#8
Burning Brakes
I would suggest you look at blue print engines web site. Blueprintengines.com. Specifically the BP 383318SP which is rated at 436hp & 443 ft.lbs of torque with a 64 cc cylinder heads. $4749 for the short block!
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yakmastermax (04-22-2024)
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#10
Drifting
In a simple economic sense almost nothing regarding a C4 Corvette is "worth it".
That being said I love these cars and they are essentially priceless to me, so I work on them in the time I earn to spend freely when off of work.
That being said I love these cars and they are essentially priceless to me, so I work on them in the time I earn to spend freely when off of work.
#11
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Absolutely understandable. If i had the time right now I Absolutely would get to it. Unfortunately my time only is available for less time consuming repairs at this point if any.
#12
Pro
You could go the C5-C6 route, but who is too say you won't be dumping $$$ into those as well?? I love the C4, you don't see them on the road hardly anymore.........Your body looks straight, paint looks good.
Are you sure it rod knock? What is your oil level at? I agree with others that your estimates of a crate engine are a bit off. If it is indeed a shot motor, then I would buy a crate motor. You should be able to get something that is plug and play, and be on your way. Find a good shop, with a good rep, that is local too you.......
Are you sure it rod knock? What is your oil level at? I agree with others that your estimates of a crate engine are a bit off. If it is indeed a shot motor, then I would buy a crate motor. You should be able to get something that is plug and play, and be on your way. Find a good shop, with a good rep, that is local too you.......
#14
Intermediate
Thread Starter
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
You could go the C5-C6 route, but who is too say you won't be dumping $$$ into those as well?? I love the C4, you don't see them on the road hardly anymore.........Your body looks straight, paint looks good.
Are you sure it rod knock? What is your oil level at? I agree with others that your estimates of a crate engine are a bit off. If it is indeed a shot motor, then I would buy a crate motor. You should be able to get something that is plug and play, and be on your way. Find a good shop, with a good rep, that is local too you.......
Are you sure it rod knock? What is your oil level at? I agree with others that your estimates of a crate engine are a bit off. If it is indeed a shot motor, then I would buy a crate motor. You should be able to get something that is plug and play, and be on your way. Find a good shop, with a good rep, that is local too you.......
#16
Le Mans Master
The prices are quite high. I guess I haven't looked at prices to have someone else do the work.
Is there any way that you could do the work either for the rebuild or for the installation?
Prices for rebuild kits are much lower. Rings bearings and gaskets can be as low as $250. About the same for a new crankshaft. Complete rotating assemblies can be around $1000.
In short if you do it yourself, it is like paying yourself $8000-$9000.
I rebuilt my first engine when I was 15 and didn't know anything. It came out fine. (a 421 tri-power Pontiac) I found I enjoyed the work. Since then I have rebuilt a lot of engines (for a while it was about 1/week due to a racing class with motor claiming allowed)
Who knows, you my find you like working on your car and tackling some of he bigger jobs.
Either way whether you do the work or farm it out, Good Luck.
Is there any way that you could do the work either for the rebuild or for the installation?
Prices for rebuild kits are much lower. Rings bearings and gaskets can be as low as $250. About the same for a new crankshaft. Complete rotating assemblies can be around $1000.
In short if you do it yourself, it is like paying yourself $8000-$9000.
I rebuilt my first engine when I was 15 and didn't know anything. It came out fine. (a 421 tri-power Pontiac) I found I enjoyed the work. Since then I have rebuilt a lot of engines (for a while it was about 1/week due to a racing class with motor claiming allowed)
Who knows, you my find you like working on your car and tackling some of he bigger jobs.
Either way whether you do the work or farm it out, Good Luck.
#17
Melting Slicks
Unfortunately i am starting to feel discouraged and wondering if it is worth it. For a rebuild & labor i am looking at a little under 10k & around 8k for a crate engine w/labor & warranty. I am starting to put the money together although i am starting to wonder if i will be a lot better off going to a C5-6
Also if you are in MD and know anyone who can do it cheaper & reliably please let me know
Also if you are in MD and know anyone who can do it cheaper & reliably please let me know
So the first thing I would do is pull the oil pan myself and see why the rod is knocking. There are lots of threads hear where a person swapped out a bad bearing and fixed rod knock for another 20K miles. If you do actually find something bad that can't just be swapped out then there are so many options available to you to get this right. You could pull the motor and do a nice budget rebuild yourself. Its a great learning experience. You could probably have it back together for less than $1000 depending on whats wrong. If you don't want to go that route then a low mileage short block from your local self service salvage yard would be a great option. Most of these places will sell a good short block with a warranty for around $250. This would be the most cost effective way to get it running again. And in the process you could upgrade to a block with 4 bolt mains. Lastly you could order a brand new short block for around $1000 to $1500 that would work.
The cost to fix this isn't going to be that bad.
#18
Take it apart and see what you find. Start with a compression test. See if you have good fuel and spark in each cylinder. Then remove the valve covers and check the rockers are set properly. Then remove the oil pan and check the rods and bearings. All simple stuff, before you dump big money on a new or worse, a used engine.