Should I replace head gaskets during lifter replacement
#1
Burning Brakes
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Should I replace head gaskets during lifter replacement
Good Morning,
I will be going into my 87 (83k) for lifters pushrods and springs in a few days. After solving the pole piece problem the starter quit and after solving the starter problem I found the tranny leaking fluid in three places. In order to solve the tranny leaks the downpipes had to come off. This means that I will have the down pipes off and the air pump, alternator, AC comp loosened. The distributor and the intake will be off as well as the entire top peeled back again plus the plugs out and coolant drained. I need to get to that bell housing bolt for the tranny dipstick as well. I will also have to use the pressure trick to keep the valves in place while I change the springs and once again replace the stem seals, something not neccessary with the heads off. I can also have the the valves replaced and clean the head up. (I am unfamiliar with lapping valves).
My question is, since I plan to keep the car, and in 5 years it would not be likely I would feel like going back in, should I bite the bullet and just do the heads/valves now? Am I so close to head gaskets that at 36 years old and the work I have to do, just go ahead and do the heads as well. Is "time" a killer of head gaskets? What in addition has to come off ?
I will be going into my 87 (83k) for lifters pushrods and springs in a few days. After solving the pole piece problem the starter quit and after solving the starter problem I found the tranny leaking fluid in three places. In order to solve the tranny leaks the downpipes had to come off. This means that I will have the down pipes off and the air pump, alternator, AC comp loosened. The distributor and the intake will be off as well as the entire top peeled back again plus the plugs out and coolant drained. I need to get to that bell housing bolt for the tranny dipstick as well. I will also have to use the pressure trick to keep the valves in place while I change the springs and once again replace the stem seals, something not neccessary with the heads off. I can also have the the valves replaced and clean the head up. (I am unfamiliar with lapping valves).
My question is, since I plan to keep the car, and in 5 years it would not be likely I would feel like going back in, should I bite the bullet and just do the heads/valves now? Am I so close to head gaskets that at 36 years old and the work I have to do, just go ahead and do the heads as well. Is "time" a killer of head gaskets? What in addition has to come off ?
Last edited by Vets-Vet; 10-25-2023 at 08:07 AM.
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jazfe (11-04-2023)
#5
Burning Brakes
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Are there new, reliable valves if needed ? Melling ?? Since I replaced the stem seals no smoke and oil use is near if not zero, hopefully that is a good sign for the guides. The cost of the headgaskets go up immensley with head work, but it would be risky without.
Last edited by Vets-Vet; 10-25-2023 at 10:17 AM.
#6
Race Director
IMO, send the heads out for porting and upgrades. Do the new head gasket, and a cam. No reason to tear into it as far as you have to not come out on the other side with more power.
#7
Burning Brakes
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Thanks all for the help. As far as more power it is a good suggestion but it has 36 year old bearings in the lower end and the price for a cam goes to far (unless one of the lifters has been chewing away).
#9
Burning Brakes
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""What makes you think you need NEW valves"",
Not a thing, just info in case I have to make decisions. Can valves be lapped without replacing them with larger sizes ???
Thanks again for your help.
Not a thing, just info in case I have to make decisions. Can valves be lapped without replacing them with larger sizes ???
Thanks again for your help.
#10
Melting Slicks
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2022 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
If you pull the heads, just have the machine shop deal with them. More than likely the heads will be warped. They will cut them, do the valve seals, and a valve job and you'll sleep good knowing it was done right. Last set of heads I just had done were under 400 bucks for the pair a month ago.
#11
If you pull the heads, just have the machine shop deal with them. More than likely the heads will be warped. They will cut them, do the valve seals, and a valve job and you'll sleep good knowing it was done right. Last set of heads I just had done were under 400 bucks for the pair a month ago.
#12
Burning Brakes
Why do you have to pull the heads to replace the lifters? I have done lifters on my 86 without pulling the heads
#13
Melting Slicks
It looks as though You are determined to be in the bottom of the rabbit hole looking up ! You're taking the Intake Manifold off to fix a Transmission Leak ?????
#14
Burning Brakes
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@Gale Banks 80' , No, to replace lifters.
@FostersPerformance , That makes a lot of good sense, Thanks.
""If you pull the heads, just have the machine shop deal with them. More than likely the heads will be warped. They will cut them, do the valve seals, and a valve job and you'll sleep good knowing it was done right. Last set of heads I just had done were under 400 bucks for the pair a month ago.""
@FostersPerformance , That makes a lot of good sense, Thanks.
""If you pull the heads, just have the machine shop deal with them. More than likely the heads will be warped. They will cut them, do the valve seals, and a valve job and you'll sleep good knowing it was done right. Last set of heads I just had done were under 400 bucks for the pair a month ago.""
#15
Melting Slicks
If you pull the heads, just have the machine shop deal with them. More than likely the heads will be warped. They will cut them, do the valve seals, and a valve job and you'll sleep good knowing it was done right. Last set of heads I just had done were under 400 bucks for the pair a month ago.
I would like to add one more reason - that aluminum heads on an iron block do grind away the head gasket over time.
#20
Burning Brakes
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@FostersPerformance Whalemans question is a good one, I'm interested too, not that I would use it but it is still interesting. I am close to buying Fel Pro 501SD severe duty and ARP 1343601.