1985 700r4 overdrive issue
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1985 700r4 TCC issue
Hi gang, been awhile since I last logged in. Anyhow, I have a problem with my 85 700r4 overdrive. I just had the tranny completely overhauled and he bench tested it thoroughly. So the tranny and torq converter are not the issue.
The problem: When starting out from a stop all works just fine. I get solid OD lock up. So, I know the OD does work. The problem occurs when at highway speed and the brake is applied and then speed is resumed without making a complete stop, the OD does not want to re-engage. I know there are several things that are inputs to the computer for this to happen. My thinking now is the TPS (throttle position sensor). I am wondering if any of you have any ideas where to start. Or if anyone has had a similar problem that has solved it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
The problem: When starting out from a stop all works just fine. I get solid OD lock up. So, I know the OD does work. The problem occurs when at highway speed and the brake is applied and then speed is resumed without making a complete stop, the OD does not want to re-engage. I know there are several things that are inputs to the computer for this to happen. My thinking now is the TPS (throttle position sensor). I am wondering if any of you have any ideas where to start. Or if anyone has had a similar problem that has solved it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Randy M; 08-19-2023 at 09:40 AM.
#2
Is it overdrive or torque converter lock up you are talking about? I'd try adjusting the tv cable, your 85 doesn't have a fully computer controlled trans, only the lock up feature is computer controlled.
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Randy M (08-19-2023)
#3
Melting Slicks
Hi gang, been awhile since I last logged in. Anyhow, I have a problem with my 85 700r4 overdrive. I just had the tranny completely overhauled and he bench tested it thoroughly. So the tranny and torq converter are not the issue.
The problem: When starting out from a stop all works just fine. I get solid OD lock up. So, I know the OD does work. The problem occurs when at highway speed and the brake is applied and then speed is resumed without making a complete stop, the OD does not want to re-engage. I know there are several things that are inputs to the computer for this to happen. My thinking now is the TPS (throttle position sensor). I am wondering if any of you have any ideas where to start. Or if anyone has had a similar problem that has solved it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
The problem: When starting out from a stop all works just fine. I get solid OD lock up. So, I know the OD does work. The problem occurs when at highway speed and the brake is applied and then speed is resumed without making a complete stop, the OD does not want to re-engage. I know there are several things that are inputs to the computer for this to happen. My thinking now is the TPS (throttle position sensor). I am wondering if any of you have any ideas where to start. Or if anyone has had a similar problem that has solved it. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like you are talking about the torque converter lockup, not the OD. The brake switch may need adjusting. Put your toe under the brake pedal and lift and see what happens.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
I am confused fellas, isn't torque converter lock-up overdrive?
Yeah, I have already adjusted the TV cable.
Checking the brake switch is on my list of things to do. Thanks.
I am starting think it is an ECM or prom issue.
Yeah, I have already adjusted the TV cable.
Checking the brake switch is on my list of things to do. Thanks.
I am starting think it is an ECM or prom issue.
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Randy M (08-19-2023)
#7
Pro
Torque converter lock up and OD are two different things.
An automatic transmission is basically like having two fans in line with each other, and one fan is blowing air onto the other fan. It causes the other fan to spin. The clutches/fins inside the torque converter catch the ATF, and spin at the designed stall speed (when you press the throttle and the RPMs blip a bit, and then settle back down once throttle is released). So the engine speed and transmission speed can be different. Once the lockup occurs, the engine and transmission speed are matched, feeling like an extra "gear".
I may have some of the technical terms incorrect, but the basic principle of how the auto transmission works is solid.
An automatic transmission is basically like having two fans in line with each other, and one fan is blowing air onto the other fan. It causes the other fan to spin. The clutches/fins inside the torque converter catch the ATF, and spin at the designed stall speed (when you press the throttle and the RPMs blip a bit, and then settle back down once throttle is released). So the engine speed and transmission speed can be different. Once the lockup occurs, the engine and transmission speed are matched, feeling like an extra "gear".
I may have some of the technical terms incorrect, but the basic principle of how the auto transmission works is solid.
#8
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Nov 2021
Location: People's Republic of Nueva York
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Torque converter lock up and OD are two different things.
An automatic transmission is basically like having two fans in line with each other, and one fan is blowing air onto the other fan. It causes the other fan to spin. The clutches/fins inside the torque converter catch the ATF, and spin at the designed stall speed (when you press the throttle and the RPMs blip a bit, and then settle back down once throttle is released). So the engine speed and transmission speed can be different. Once the lockup occurs, the engine and transmission speed are matched, feeling like an extra "gear".
I may have some of the technical terms incorrect, but the basic principle of how the auto transmission works is solid.
An automatic transmission is basically like having two fans in line with each other, and one fan is blowing air onto the other fan. It causes the other fan to spin. The clutches/fins inside the torque converter catch the ATF, and spin at the designed stall speed (when you press the throttle and the RPMs blip a bit, and then settle back down once throttle is released). So the engine speed and transmission speed can be different. Once the lockup occurs, the engine and transmission speed are matched, feeling like an extra "gear".
I may have some of the technical terms incorrect, but the basic principle of how the auto transmission works is solid.
There's some older language that may lead to confusion.
In torque converters, once an equilibrium of speed and load are achieved the drive and the driven elements of the converter operate at pretty much the same speed. This was often referred to as "lockup." However, in the case of more modern converters there is a separate clutch inside the converter that when activated, mechanically locks the two components together. This is also a "lockup," but it's an actual physical lock between the components just like a clutch on a manual transmission, so there are no losses in the transmission of power.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
Wasn't really looking for a lesson on all the detail. Just was looking for some help on a possible failure that won't activate the TCC after touching the brake while cruising. I did check the brake switch and it is operating just like it should. I have diligently checked everything else. And as I have already stated, everything works perfectly from a stop. So I know that everything else is working like it should. I am beginning to think it is either the PROM, the ECM, or both. I was kinda hoping some else may have had this problem and could confirm my thinking. Sorry for leading you all down the wrong path.
Yeah, this is what I am thinking. Thanks
Yeah, this is what I am thinking. Thanks
#11
Melting Slicks
If you don't understand how these things work, how are you supposed to diagnose a fix? While there are far too many people here that watch too many Youtube videos and then come on here and spew nonsense, finding a solution to your problem starts with understanding how certain systems operate.
Last edited by arbee; 08-19-2023 at 01:52 PM.
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WVZR-1 (08-19-2023)
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
OK, so I misspoke. Got it, TCC lockup is not OD. Sorry.
Seems I have control problem, everything seems to work just fine starting out from a stop. This tells me that all the switches, inputs, and wiring are working, or am I missing something? Ex-X-Fire said the tcc is controlled by the ECM. In trying to understand this, the does the prom do any of the control or is it just the ECM? Maybe I should just replace both?
Also, on Corvette Central's website they state that the life of the PROM was intended to be 5 years. Any more information on this would be greatly appreciated as well.
Gentlemen, I have been struggling with this for a year now. And I am getting very frustrated. Everywhere I turn, I cannot find a component failure and am slowly and painstakingly being pointed in the direction of the ECM and/or the PROM. I cannot find any information on the computer program for this control. I have tried through my poor electrical knowledge to diagnose this problem. I have painstakingly gone over and over the manual's diagnosis flow chart. I am coming to the conclusion that I have to bite the bullet and spend the money on an ECM and PROM. I mean, the car is 38 years old. I could easily spend more money on a shop to find the problem and still have to buy an ECM and PROM.
Seems I have control problem, everything seems to work just fine starting out from a stop. This tells me that all the switches, inputs, and wiring are working, or am I missing something? Ex-X-Fire said the tcc is controlled by the ECM. In trying to understand this, the does the prom do any of the control or is it just the ECM? Maybe I should just replace both?
Also, on Corvette Central's website they state that the life of the PROM was intended to be 5 years. Any more information on this would be greatly appreciated as well.
Gentlemen, I have been struggling with this for a year now. And I am getting very frustrated. Everywhere I turn, I cannot find a component failure and am slowly and painstakingly being pointed in the direction of the ECM and/or the PROM. I cannot find any information on the computer program for this control. I have tried through my poor electrical knowledge to diagnose this problem. I have painstakingly gone over and over the manual's diagnosis flow chart. I am coming to the conclusion that I have to bite the bullet and spend the money on an ECM and PROM. I mean, the car is 38 years old. I could easily spend more money on a shop to find the problem and still have to buy an ECM and PROM.
#13
This thread from back in 2016 might be a good read for you. What PROM and CALPAK do you have in your ECM currently?
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orted-ecu.html
This is TSB 85-6-298
#85-6-298: POOR DRIVEABILITY (NEW PROM TO INCREASE TCC ENGAGEMENT SPEED) - (Feb 14, 1986)VEHICLES AFFECTED: 1985 Corvette With Automatic Transmission -----------------------------------------
A revised calibration PROM has been released which is intended to improve driveability on 1985 Corvettes with Automatic transmission.
This PROM contains changes to improve tip in response when accelerating and also raises torque converter clutch engagement speeds to 65 KPH (41 MPH).
This PROM P/N is 1227805.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orted-ecu.html
This is TSB 85-6-298
#85-6-298: POOR DRIVEABILITY (NEW PROM TO INCREASE TCC ENGAGEMENT SPEED) - (Feb 14, 1986)VEHICLES AFFECTED: 1985 Corvette With Automatic Transmission -----------------------------------------
A revised calibration PROM has been released which is intended to improve driveability on 1985 Corvettes with Automatic transmission.
This PROM contains changes to improve tip in response when accelerating and also raises torque converter clutch engagement speeds to 65 KPH (41 MPH).
This PROM P/N is 1227805.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 08-21-2023 at 10:07 AM.
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Randy M (08-22-2023)
#14
Melting Slicks
OK, so I misspoke. Got it, TCC lockup is not OD. Sorry.
Seems I have control problem, everything seems to work just fine starting out from a stop. This tells me that all the switches, inputs, and wiring are working, or am I missing something? Ex-X-Fire said the tcc is controlled by the ECM. In trying to understand this, the does the prom do any of the control or is it just the ECM? Maybe I should just replace both?
Also, on Corvette Central's website they state that the life of the PROM was intended to be 5 years. Any more information on this would be greatly appreciated as well.
Gentlemen, I have been struggling with this for a year now. And I am getting very frustrated. Everywhere I turn, I cannot find a component failure and am slowly and painstakingly being pointed in the direction of the ECM and/or the PROM. I cannot find any information on the computer program for this control. I have tried through my poor electrical knowledge to diagnose this problem. I have painstakingly gone over and over the manual's diagnosis flow chart. I am coming to the conclusion that I have to bite the bullet and spend the money on an ECM and PROM. I mean, the car is 38 years old. I could easily spend more money on a shop to find the problem and still have to buy an ECM and PROM.
Seems I have control problem, everything seems to work just fine starting out from a stop. This tells me that all the switches, inputs, and wiring are working, or am I missing something? Ex-X-Fire said the tcc is controlled by the ECM. In trying to understand this, the does the prom do any of the control or is it just the ECM? Maybe I should just replace both?
Also, on Corvette Central's website they state that the life of the PROM was intended to be 5 years. Any more information on this would be greatly appreciated as well.
Gentlemen, I have been struggling with this for a year now. And I am getting very frustrated. Everywhere I turn, I cannot find a component failure and am slowly and painstakingly being pointed in the direction of the ECM and/or the PROM. I cannot find any information on the computer program for this control. I have tried through my poor electrical knowledge to diagnose this problem. I have painstakingly gone over and over the manual's diagnosis flow chart. I am coming to the conclusion that I have to bite the bullet and spend the money on an ECM and PROM. I mean, the car is 38 years old. I could easily spend more money on a shop to find the problem and still have to buy an ECM and PROM.
EDIT: Post the model number of your transmission and I will post the appropriate diagram.
Last edited by arbee; 08-21-2023 at 11:35 AM.
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IHBD (08-22-2023)
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
Set up a test by running 3 jumper wires into the drivers spot and do some checks with a test light.(you will have to splice into the wires at the termination plug,) Wire "A" is the one from your brake switch. With the car running, this should have + voltage until you step on the brake. When you release the brake, it should go + again. The other two need to be checked while driving.to see if the trans is getting the proper signal when commanded. If all check out good, then the problem lies within the transmission(faulty switch, sticking valve). I have included a couple pages from my ATSG manual. DO NOT ASSUME THE VALVE BODY DIAGRAM IS FOR YOUR MODEL. THERE ARE TEN OR MORE VARIANTS AND THIS IS FOR EXAMPLE ONLY.
I have gone through all of the service manual diagnostics several times. I have checked wiring, switches, sensors, and keep coming up empty, because everything works except this particular condition. I will recheck anything again if you really think I missed something. Again, the TCC works and everything checks out in the start condition.
Last edited by Randy M; 08-22-2023 at 12:57 PM.
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
A revised calibration PROM has been released which is intended to improve driveability on 1985 Corvettes with Automatic transmission.
This PROM contains changes to improve tip in response when accelerating and also raises torque converter clutch engagement speeds to 65 KPH (41 MPH).
This PROM P/N is 1227805.
This PROM contains changes to improve tip in response when accelerating and also raises torque converter clutch engagement speeds to 65 KPH (41 MPH).
This PROM P/N is 1227805.
#19
Melting Slicks
Yes, I have verified that the wire from the ECM to the transmission is good. I did this with a continuity check from end to end. Also, the TCC activates from a stop just fine.
When I start from a stop all works perfectly. All gear shifts and the TCC activates normally. This is consistently repeatable. The TCC works every time. It locks up after 4th gear engages and 40mph is achieved as it should. If starting out from a stop and getting to speed with TCC lock up and hit the brake and come to a stop and start out again everything will work perfectly. If starting out from a stop and get up to speed with TCC lock up and hit the brake and keep cruising, TCC will not reengage. This is what I am struggling with.
What now tells the TCC to lock backup?
The brake switch supplies the + feed to the internal solenoid. Go for a drive and maintain, say 60 MPH. Don't let off the gas but momentarily touch and release the gas pedal. Your tach should climb and fall a couple hundred RPM. This will confirm if your brake switch is operating correctly. If the tach doesn't go down when releasing the brake, that doesn't necessarily mean the brake switch is bad. That's why I said to hook up the test light. If you release the brake and the tach doesn't go down but the test light goes on, it means the + signal has been restored but there is a problem inside the trans.
The PROM, a relay, the ECM? Something isn't closing the logic loop in this condition.
In conjunction with the above noted + signal, the trans indicates that conditions have been met and the ECM sends the - signal(Method varies, that's why I said post your trans model number.) I wouldn't get a woody over thinking it is electrical but this should be ruled out first. Test, test, test. There is also TCC valves in the valve body and/or pump that may have cross leaks, sticking valves, broken return spring etc.
Why do I have to come to a complete stop to reset the logic?
Could be many things. Maybe while at a certain speed, a cross leak is occurring and is sticking a valve. May "unstick" when pressure goes down. ????????
Even if it is a bad brake switch, why is it allowing TCC engagement from a stop. Isn't the switch just and open, close condition? It doesn't provide logic, just a signal. If the switch is momentary condition during cruising, it should just delay the reset for a longer time similar to a full stop.
I have gone through all of the service manual diagnostics several times. I have checked wiring, switches, sensors, and keep coming up empty, because everything works except this particular condition. I will recheck anything again if you really think I missed something. Again, the TCC works and everything checks out in the start condition.
How do I determine a Type I or Type II tranny?
I don't know what you mean by "Type 1 or Type 11". You say you have a 700R4. Look on the back right hand side of the transmission right where the oilpan meets the case. There are some letters and numbers there. Post them.
I see there is an overdrive relay switch for the manual trans, but the service manual doesn't list one for the automatic. Am I missing something? A bad relay? Thanks for your time and posts. Greatly appreciated.
When I start from a stop all works perfectly. All gear shifts and the TCC activates normally. This is consistently repeatable. The TCC works every time. It locks up after 4th gear engages and 40mph is achieved as it should. If starting out from a stop and getting to speed with TCC lock up and hit the brake and come to a stop and start out again everything will work perfectly. If starting out from a stop and get up to speed with TCC lock up and hit the brake and keep cruising, TCC will not reengage. This is what I am struggling with.
What now tells the TCC to lock backup?
The brake switch supplies the + feed to the internal solenoid. Go for a drive and maintain, say 60 MPH. Don't let off the gas but momentarily touch and release the gas pedal. Your tach should climb and fall a couple hundred RPM. This will confirm if your brake switch is operating correctly. If the tach doesn't go down when releasing the brake, that doesn't necessarily mean the brake switch is bad. That's why I said to hook up the test light. If you release the brake and the tach doesn't go down but the test light goes on, it means the + signal has been restored but there is a problem inside the trans.
The PROM, a relay, the ECM? Something isn't closing the logic loop in this condition.
In conjunction with the above noted + signal, the trans indicates that conditions have been met and the ECM sends the - signal(Method varies, that's why I said post your trans model number.) I wouldn't get a woody over thinking it is electrical but this should be ruled out first. Test, test, test. There is also TCC valves in the valve body and/or pump that may have cross leaks, sticking valves, broken return spring etc.
Why do I have to come to a complete stop to reset the logic?
Could be many things. Maybe while at a certain speed, a cross leak is occurring and is sticking a valve. May "unstick" when pressure goes down. ????????
Even if it is a bad brake switch, why is it allowing TCC engagement from a stop. Isn't the switch just and open, close condition? It doesn't provide logic, just a signal. If the switch is momentary condition during cruising, it should just delay the reset for a longer time similar to a full stop.
I have gone through all of the service manual diagnostics several times. I have checked wiring, switches, sensors, and keep coming up empty, because everything works except this particular condition. I will recheck anything again if you really think I missed something. Again, the TCC works and everything checks out in the start condition.
How do I determine a Type I or Type II tranny?
I don't know what you mean by "Type 1 or Type 11". You say you have a 700R4. Look on the back right hand side of the transmission right where the oilpan meets the case. There are some letters and numbers there. Post them.
I see there is an overdrive relay switch for the manual trans, but the service manual doesn't list one for the automatic. Am I missing something? A bad relay? Thanks for your time and posts. Greatly appreciated.
#20
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jul 2022
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There once was a C4 corvette traveling down a road,
all the parts were working and singing happily, they
suddenly came upon a corvette god and all the parts
stopped working and bowed except pin F on the ALDL,
he threw his finger in the air at the corvette god and
yelled at him, "I won't bow down today corvette god,
not today".
The corvette god became angry and pointed his finger
at pin F and said (in a hollow 55 gal drum voice) "you shall
never speak to me that way again pin F" and he thrust
his staff at pin F and a bolt of lightning flew from the
the staff and struck pin F.
To this day, Pin F can not speak what voltage it has on it,
Instead, all owners must use a DVM to tell what it is.
The end ........
.
all the parts were working and singing happily, they
suddenly came upon a corvette god and all the parts
stopped working and bowed except pin F on the ALDL,
he threw his finger in the air at the corvette god and
yelled at him, "I won't bow down today corvette god,
not today".
The corvette god became angry and pointed his finger
at pin F and said (in a hollow 55 gal drum voice) "you shall
never speak to me that way again pin F" and he thrust
his staff at pin F and a bolt of lightning flew from the
the staff and struck pin F.
To this day, Pin F can not speak what voltage it has on it,
Instead, all owners must use a DVM to tell what it is.
The end ........
.