What a nightmare
#21
Burning Brakes
#22
Valve job
None of what follows is to belittle what the OP is dealing with, more a commiseration. I was where he seems to be a bit over a month ago when I found transmission fluid on the floor of my garage very late one Saturday evening, as I was wrapping up the new weatherstripping install on thee B-pillars.
I brought my '87 home the last weekend of March. It had been my father's since '87, had mostly sat for the last fourteen years, only two thousand miles on it in that time, and I have worked on it literally, every weekend since then. It is just now in the shape I thought it was going to be when I picked it up. Dad, had been getting it back to "good shape," but he and Mom are looking for a smaller place, easier to keep up, and it's time for the car to be mine now.
The list so far;
What still needs done;
Stereo and Speaker (Bose) refurbishment or replacement
New wheels and tires (old wheels are slightly out of true from having sat so long)
Valve Job, at a minimum, as there's a puff of oil smoke on startup, from the passenger side, when it's been parked on a slope. No discernible loss of oil over three thousand miles. I'm going to give it some thought before I get to that, but sounds like the right time to new heads and an intake to me, perhaps a complete rebuild of the engine as, the paint on the block is pretty much gone, and if I'm pulling the whole thing out to be repainted... We'll see.
Suspension and brakes both will require attention. There's bushings that can stand to be replaced, but aren't bad enough to demand it happen near term.
C5 brakes will probably happen when the pads are worn enough to need replacing. They're fine, but I'm adopting a, if I'm replacing it, make it better, sort of approach when work on anything. So, why not that too?
Mostly, my own father hadn't driven the car in so long that he didn't have a good baseline for it, to evaluate against when he finally started to again. He handed off something that I'm a bunch of money and time into, and it's now pretty much where I thought it was going to be, back in March. There's more of both on the horizon, but no longer anything that has to be done immediately.
Oh, and it's going into the body shop to get a scrape from his Harley off the passenger side quarter panel, on Tuesday. At that point, it'll be a relatively pristine '87 C4 with less than 30k miles, that could still use some love, but is a relatively reliable driver / cruiser.
Last night, as I was cruising home from seeing some friends, top off and stowed in the rear, showing some kids in the car next to me that the pop-up headlights work, and how, I was thinking about how satisfying it is to finally be at this point.
Just one point of view, take it for what it's worth.
Edit: None of that's to excuse the seller or anything. Just, if you choose to keep it, there may be some good associated with it, as time goes on.
I brought my '87 home the last weekend of March. It had been my father's since '87, had mostly sat for the last fourteen years, only two thousand miles on it in that time, and I have worked on it literally, every weekend since then. It is just now in the shape I thought it was going to be when I picked it up. Dad, had been getting it back to "good shape," but he and Mom are looking for a smaller place, easier to keep up, and it's time for the car to be mine now.
The list so far;
- Shocks
Spark plugs
Spark plug wires
Spark plug wire brackets / holders
Fuel Filter
Distributor Cap
Distributor Rotor
PVC Valve
Adjusted targa top fitment
Adjusted door window fitment
Re-balanced tires / wheels
Air intake / filter assembly
Air Filter
Cleaned / rebuilt throttlebody
Fuel Filter (again)
Squeak and rattle chasing
Idler / Belt tensioner
Oil Filter and Oil Change
Replaced bunches of small plastic fasteners that break the instant you touch them.
More squeak and rattle chasing
A-pillar weatherstripping
B-pillar weatherstripping
Targa weatherstripping
Rebuilt the transmission adding a shift kit, stronger clutch packs and a few other improvements
Replaced lower radiator hose after one of the original hose clamps let go.
Flushed radiator
Polished and waxed
Adjusted window fitment to new weatherstripping
Replaced EGR switch
Replaced oil temp sender
Replaced weatherproofing on wheel speed sensors for ABS system
What still needs done;
Stereo and Speaker (Bose) refurbishment or replacement
New wheels and tires (old wheels are slightly out of true from having sat so long)
Valve Job, at a minimum, as there's a puff of oil smoke on startup, from the passenger side, when it's been parked on a slope. No discernible loss of oil over three thousand miles. I'm going to give it some thought before I get to that, but sounds like the right time to new heads and an intake to me, perhaps a complete rebuild of the engine as, the paint on the block is pretty much gone, and if I'm pulling the whole thing out to be repainted... We'll see.
Suspension and brakes both will require attention. There's bushings that can stand to be replaced, but aren't bad enough to demand it happen near term.
C5 brakes will probably happen when the pads are worn enough to need replacing. They're fine, but I'm adopting a, if I'm replacing it, make it better, sort of approach when work on anything. So, why not that too?
Mostly, my own father hadn't driven the car in so long that he didn't have a good baseline for it, to evaluate against when he finally started to again. He handed off something that I'm a bunch of money and time into, and it's now pretty much where I thought it was going to be, back in March. There's more of both on the horizon, but no longer anything that has to be done immediately.
Oh, and it's going into the body shop to get a scrape from his Harley off the passenger side quarter panel, on Tuesday. At that point, it'll be a relatively pristine '87 C4 with less than 30k miles, that could still use some love, but is a relatively reliable driver / cruiser.
Last night, as I was cruising home from seeing some friends, top off and stowed in the rear, showing some kids in the car next to me that the pop-up headlights work, and how, I was thinking about how satisfying it is to finally be at this point.
Just one point of view, take it for what it's worth.
Edit: None of that's to excuse the seller or anything. Just, if you choose to keep it, there may be some good associated with it, as time goes on.
There is just one point that I would like to respond to. Hilflos, you mentioned that you plan to do a valve job someday and you said something about removing the heads. The smoke that you see when you start up your 30k engine does come from the valves. However, to be more precise it most likely comes from dried and hard valve seals. The rubber become like stone after 30 years. The good news is that you can replace those little buggers without taking the heads off. It's an easy job and you don't need much in the way of tools except a valve spring compressor and an "air hold" or if you don't have that you can use 3' or so of cotton clothesline. I have done this job many times and you will be surprised how easythe job is. If you do a search on replacing valve seals on an engine you should get the information that you need to do the job. It's easy, you'll remove the valve covers and rocker arms, remove the spark plugs, as you go along lower the piston in each cylinder, apply air pressure to the cylinder, using the valve spring compressor remove the valve lock and spring, remove and replace the valve seal, reassemble the spring and valve retainer, move on to the next valve. Take your time and do one at a time. The rope can be used instead of the "air hold" by pushing as much cotton rope in the cylinder with the piston down and then bringing the piston up (by hand only) to keep the valves pressed in place. Do one at a time and you'll have good results. Reset the valve lash when you are done. One more thing, block off all of the oil return holes on the head before you take any of the valve locks off, you don't want them falling into the crankcase. Good luck.
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hilflos (09-27-2017)
#23
Drifting
Every car I've ever owned cost at least $2-3K a year minimum to own figuring maintenance, repair and depreciation. An old Vette is no different. Just parking it in a garage for a year will cost with deterioration and no end in declining value. If your not prepared to open your wallet occasionally maybe its time to change to.....old motorcycles? jm2c
#24
Pro
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: Jackson Wisconsin
Posts: 656
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There are a whole bunch of sayings that go with this; Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me", buyer beware, "all it needs is ---- and it runs fine", "it ran when I parked it, it just needs a jump", "all that glitters is not gold", " so soon we grow old, so slow we grow smart"; the list goes on. The truth of the matter is that there is no real "value" to an old car, the utility is pretty much depreciated out. Its worth what someone will pay. Would you be any happier if you had spend $1000, or perhaps $2000"? While its undoubtedly more than you bargained for in the end it will probably be just fine. Please don't be discouraged. Its a great car and this is a great forum. Keep the faith and we'll look for you at the next Corvette meet. I'm sure you'll have some good stories to tell. As far as the seller goes, sooner or later he will get his comeuppance. One more saying" what goes around comes around". Cheers
#25
There is just one point that I would like to respond to. Hilflos, you mentioned that you plan to do a valve job someday and you said something about removing the heads. The smoke that you see when you start up your 30k engine does come from the valves. However, to be more precise it most likely comes from dried and hard valve seals. The rubber become like stone after 30 years. The good news is that you can replace those little buggers without taking the heads off. It's an easy job and you don't need much in the way of tools except a valve spring compressor and an "air hold" or if you don't have that you can use 3' or so of cotton clothesline. I have done this job many times and you will be surprised how easythe job is. If you do a search on replacing valve seals on an engine you should get the information that you need to do the job. It's easy, you'll remove the valve covers and rocker arms, remove the spark plugs, as you go along lower the piston in each cylinder, apply air pressure to the cylinder, using the valve spring compressor remove the valve lock and spring, remove and replace the valve seal, reassemble the spring and valve retainer, move on to the next valve. Take your time and do one at a time. The rope can be used instead of the "air hold" by pushing as much cotton rope in the cylinder with the piston down and then bringing the piston up (by hand only) to keep the valves pressed in place. Do one at a time and you'll have good results. Reset the valve lash when you are done. One more thing, block off all of the oil return holes on the head before you take any of the valve locks off, you don't want them falling into the crankcase. Good luck.
I am, at best, an amateur / shade tree, mechanic. I'm comfortable right up to the point where the phrase "rebuild," comes into the equation. I'm aware of the theory and methods, but not practiced enough to trust my own work, past a certain point. Engine and transmission rebuilds are pretty much that point.
From the sounds of it, valve job is probably doable though. I'll have to think about it. It's not on the list until Spring sometime, right now. Appreciate that.
#26
Pro
Member Since: Aug 2015
Location: Jackson Wisconsin
Posts: 656
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Every SBC I've owned smoked on startup. The valve seals seem to be a real weak point. My 73 C3 smokes every time I start up after sitting overnight. It puffs for about a minute then settles down. No appreciable oil consumption in spite of 100k on the motor. I could have the seals done for a couple hundred bucks but I'll hold off til I need a valve job.
#27
Every car I've ever owned cost at least $2-3K a year minimum to own figuring maintenance, repair and depreciation. An old Vette is no different. Just parking it in a garage for a year will cost with deterioration and no end in declining value. If your not prepared to open your wallet occasionally maybe its time to change to.....old motorcycles? jm2c
Knock on wood since I have put in $1,800.
Tires, brakes, 4 oil changes, belt, pulley, heater blower fan, tail gate shocks.
If you pay that much to have vehicles IMO you should really consider leasing brand new cars.
It really does not cost that much to drive a car. Don't fix it if it's not broken and if it keeps breaking dump it.
To the OP, people get burned on used junk all the time. The positives "for me".
-decent looking body to plastidip
-decent wheels
-can be easily carb swapped
-if no emmisions or restrictions, headman headers and straight pipes will make it fun
-Rebuild dash or swap to analog
If you want a nice almost real one sell this now.
Last edited by pologreen1; 09-27-2017 at 08:40 PM.
#28
Nightmare
30 year old cars are not plug and play that's for sure. I'm digging out from under a 94 right now that seduced me by a new paint job. My 84 is in better shape mechanically (also not without pain though). I just take it one job at a time. Good luck....
#29
Instructor
I bought a 1995 vehicle in 2003 used obviously. I paid 6500.
Knock on wood since I have put in $1,800.
Tires, brakes, 4 oil changes, belt, pulley, heater blower fan, tail gate shocks.
If you pay that much to have vehicles IMO you should really consider leasing brand new cars.
It really does not cost that much to drive a car. Don't fix it if it's not broken and if it keeps breaking dump it.
To the OP, people get burned on used junk all the time. The positives "for me".
-decent looking body to plastidip
-decent wheels
-can be easily carb swapped
-if no emmisions or restrictions, headman headers and straight pipes will make it fun
-Rebuild dash or swap to analog
If you want a nice almost real one sell this now.
Knock on wood since I have put in $1,800.
Tires, brakes, 4 oil changes, belt, pulley, heater blower fan, tail gate shocks.
If you pay that much to have vehicles IMO you should really consider leasing brand new cars.
It really does not cost that much to drive a car. Don't fix it if it's not broken and if it keeps breaking dump it.
To the OP, people get burned on used junk all the time. The positives "for me".
-decent looking body to plastidip
-decent wheels
-can be easily carb swapped
-if no emmisions or restrictions, headman headers and straight pipes will make it fun
-Rebuild dash or swap to analog
If you want a nice almost real one sell this now.
#30