Hoser

OK got the rt rr torn down and 1.the nut is way loose.. And 2.the flange comes right off.... No puller or anything. I'm thinking I was one trip away from disaster. Then I notice no obvious signs of distress on the races, which is a two piece affair, grease is all there and everything is in one piece and turns smooth. The unit is definitely not one piece or sealed. It looks like the spindle nut torque controls the end play which as you might expect was out there when grabbing the wheel at 6&9 and 12 & 6.
I'm beginning to think that re torquing the nut would bring everything right again. AND there was a shim between the spindle and inner bearing race. It's almost like a c3 setup to get the end play right.
This doesn't sound like the rest of the posts or pictures I've been reading about.
Does this sound right?
Also anybody know where you get the seal that's in the knuckle that seals around the spindle?

GKK

That Hub Bearing is Toast...

Replace with a new Bearing assembly and torque the spindle nut to 200 lb. ft.

JrRifleCoach

The shim you referenced is a Teflon coated washer/spacer.
PN 584093 Wheel hub inner washer.
Should be replaced at each replacement interval.

Hoser

Yessir am gonna do that. it's strange that there's no brinnelling on the races, ruff spots, hot spots, pitting or any of the usual signs of bearing failure you see normally.

Hoser

Ok thanks. That's a GM number I presume (?).
You wouldn't happen to have that hub/spindle seal number would ya?

Cruisinfanatic

it used to be

hcbph

Don't know your year, so looked up the parts for me 86 for comparison
at RockAuto:
All the parts you'll likely need are under "Brakes/Wheel Hub" then "Wheel Bearings/Hub Assemblies". Personally I'd lean towards Raybestos, Moog or Timken hub assemblies. Most seem to run around $100-$125 per.
I think the spindle washer listed is the one that goes under the spindle nut.
If you need the seal, check under "Drivetrain" then "Axel Shaft Seal"
I'm not sure where the Teflon Washer is as I never nailed that down when I redid my U-joints. I did go though to the Chevy dealer and got a pair for around $6-$7 ea.

Hoser

Thanks.
I ended up at Auto Zone buying the Timken (looked for "made in _______" but didn't find anything on the unit) because of the warranty. Got the seal and washer from Corvette Central who also have a neat little "how to" document. I paid more for the seal than $7 (I hate when that happens).)