Transporting a C4 in an enclosed trailer
#1
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Transporting a C4 in an enclosed trailer
Hello. Can anyone chime in with some tips or tricks on transporting in an enclosed. For example:
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
#2
Safety Car
Hello. Can anyone chime in with some tips or tricks on transporting in an enclosed. For example:
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
I used to use the factory tabs welded to the frame...but they are spot welded and I have one now that is tearing loose. I've found that wheel nets are much easier to use...depending on the type you buy you need a D-ring: either a single outboard of the tire center or 2 of them. Wrap the net over the tire and ratchet tight. No crawling under the car to find the factory tie downs that way.
#3
Melting Slicks
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Hello. Can anyone chime in with some tips or tricks on transporting in an enclosed. For example:
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
-will I be able to get out of the car once I pull it in, do you have to crawl out of the hatch?
-Do I center it or pull in with the passenger side closer to facilitate easy exit on the drivers side?
-some people say to hook to some factory tabs that the c4 has?
Any input would be great, thank you in advance!
Getting out of the car is easiest if you have the top down or roof out. Otherwise you gotta be pretty skinny and easily bend in the middle to get out. The space to open the door is minimal because of the width of the interior, width of the car, and the wheelwell. There really is not enough room to put it "close" to the pax side. Trailer is what?, 80" between the wheel wells?
The rear tabs are pretty easy to get to, the front more difficult because the car is inside the trailer, up front, and unless you have wall or floor lights, pretty much in the dark. And then when you do get the front tabs located and your hook in, then you have to work the ratchet to the opposite side to tie it down.
I no longer use the enclosed trailer, opting for the ease of getting it on, me out of, and strapping it down on an open trailer. I do however pay more attention to the weather and try to plan my trips when the sun is shining.
Good luck in whichever you choose.
Just my $.02 worth
Last edited by MyOtherCar; 05-12-2014 at 05:53 PM. Reason: sp
#4
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MyOtherCar and 1991Z07:
Thank you for your advice, all very much appreciated, I will keep it all in mind. My issue is that I have to do the transport later this week and weather looks sketchy and I really want to keep it out of the junk but I will see I can still go either way.
Thank you!
Thank you for your advice, all very much appreciated, I will keep it all in mind. My issue is that I have to do the transport later this week and weather looks sketchy and I really want to keep it out of the junk but I will see I can still go either way.
Thank you!
#5
Team Owner
Is this a one-time transport? If so, I would recommend using an open trailer. You can rent one and it will work. You can use an open trailer with a 1/2 pickup but an enclosed trailer will typically require a 3/4 ton. Rental trailers like those from U-Haul will have their own surge braking system. Other trailers will require that the towing vehicle has a trailer brake controller.
I have a 20' enclosed trailer and there is just enough room for my '87. In order to open the driver's door so that it goes over the trailer wheel wells, I have to use ramps to raise the front of the car 3". That allows just enough to open the door and I can step out. If you can't get the door open, the NASCAR-style of entry/exit is the only way to get in or out.
As far as tie-down points, the C4 does have rings on the frame, but they were designed for rail or truck shipping, not as car trailer tie-downs. Typical tie down straps will contact the suspension components and create binds.
You will need 4 tie-down ratchet straps with a minimum working load limit of 1650 lbs. (5000 lb gross rating). Of course the trailer will need tie-down rings attached to the trailer frame.
I have a 20' enclosed trailer and there is just enough room for my '87. In order to open the driver's door so that it goes over the trailer wheel wells, I have to use ramps to raise the front of the car 3". That allows just enough to open the door and I can step out. If you can't get the door open, the NASCAR-style of entry/exit is the only way to get in or out.
As far as tie-down points, the C4 does have rings on the frame, but they were designed for rail or truck shipping, not as car trailer tie-downs. Typical tie down straps will contact the suspension components and create binds.
You will need 4 tie-down ratchet straps with a minimum working load limit of 1650 lbs. (5000 lb gross rating). Of course the trailer will need tie-down rings attached to the trailer frame.
#6
Race Director
#7
Safety Car
I bought one that is open under the center portion...so I can (and have) actually worked on a car under the trailer at the track on a few occasions.
If I get a trailer for the bus...it'll be an inclosed one. At 35k#...and the aero of a brick, it won't matter...and the car will be a lot safer.
#8
Instructor
I used to transport my car to Autorama in Detroit in the winter on open trailer. I used to buy a roll of shrink wrap from home depot and wrap car once it was on trailer and strapped down. Worked great and kept car clean even driving in the winter snow/wet. Good Luck
#9
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its a C4 drive the darn thing where ever you need to go. (unless its a ultra low mile car or full blown race car)
#10
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Wow great responses guys, thanks!
So I am wanting to go with enclosed because it is a grand sport that I bought and I am unsure of the weather.....
So I am wanting to go with enclosed because it is a grand sport that I bought and I am unsure of the weather.....
#11
Team Owner
What are the weather conditions?? Is your concern because of road conditions? The car will certainly survive on an open trailer. You can wrap the nose with something like kitchen "Saran Wrap" to protect the paint from anything kicked up by the towing vehicle.
It will also be much easier to tie the car down as you can easily get to the underside of the car once it's on the open trailer. If you choose to go with a U-Haul trailer, they provide a wheel-net style of a front tie down and standard ratchet straps for the rear. These trailers also have a removable left-side fender so getting in and out of the car will be very simple.
One thing with U-Haul and their car trailers is that they may want you to rent one of their trucks for towing. The "real" U-Haul stores can get pretty bitchy about customers not having a suitable tow vehicle. Try checking with self-storage lots that have U-Haul equipment. Also try Penske or Budget. Another option would be local equipment rental places.
You didn't mention what you will be using for a tow vehicle. The GS should weigh about 3400 lbs or so and steel open trailers can weigh up to 2000 lbs. Aluminum trailers will be lighter at 1000-1200 lbs. A 20' enclosed trailer like mine will weigh about 3000 lbs empty and may have gross weight limits of around 7000 lbs. So make sure a tow vehicle will be capable of towing that weight.
It will also be much easier to tie the car down as you can easily get to the underside of the car once it's on the open trailer. If you choose to go with a U-Haul trailer, they provide a wheel-net style of a front tie down and standard ratchet straps for the rear. These trailers also have a removable left-side fender so getting in and out of the car will be very simple.
One thing with U-Haul and their car trailers is that they may want you to rent one of their trucks for towing. The "real" U-Haul stores can get pretty bitchy about customers not having a suitable tow vehicle. Try checking with self-storage lots that have U-Haul equipment. Also try Penske or Budget. Another option would be local equipment rental places.
You didn't mention what you will be using for a tow vehicle. The GS should weigh about 3400 lbs or so and steel open trailers can weigh up to 2000 lbs. Aluminum trailers will be lighter at 1000-1200 lbs. A 20' enclosed trailer like mine will weigh about 3000 lbs empty and may have gross weight limits of around 7000 lbs. So make sure a tow vehicle will be capable of towing that weight.
#12
Melting Slicks
You still haven't said why you are towing it. Is this a one time thing and you want to keep it clean? Did you just buy it and are trying to get it home? Is it a race car? I tow mine on an open trailer with no drama tying down to the suspension. This is back in 09 after I did my LS swap and was taking it to the exhaust shop. I don't like towing backwards but the car wasn't running and I pushed it from my lift to my trailer.
#13
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You still haven't said why you are towing it. Is this a one time thing and you want to keep it clean? Did you just buy it and are trying to get it home? Is it a race car? I tow mine on an open trailer with no drama tying down to the suspension. This is back in 09 after I did my LS swap and was taking it to the exhaust shop. I don't like towing backwards but the car wasn't running and I pushed it from my lift to my trailer.
Towing with 10 F350 SRW
Last edited by PS961; 05-13-2014 at 11:14 PM.
#14
Melting Slicks
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What are the weather conditions?? Is your concern because of road conditions? The car will certainly survive on an open trailer. You can wrap the nose with something like kitchen "Saran Wrap" to protect the paint from anything kicked up by the towing vehicle.
It will also be much easier to tie the car down as you can easily get to the underside of the car once it's on the open trailer. If you choose to go with a U-Haul trailer, they provide a wheel-net style of a front tie down and standard ratchet straps for the rear. These trailers also have a removable left-side fender so getting in and out of the car will be very simple.
One thing with U-Haul and their car trailers is that they may want you to rent one of their trucks for towing. The "real" U-Haul stores can get pretty bitchy about customers not having a suitable tow vehicle. Try checking with self-storage lots that have U-Haul equipment. Also try Penske or Budget. Another option would be local equipment rental places.
You didn't mention what you will be using for a tow vehicle. The GS should weigh about 3400 lbs or so and steel open trailers can weigh up to 2000 lbs. Aluminum trailers will be lighter at 1000-1200 lbs. A 20' enclosed trailer like mine will weigh about 3000 lbs empty and may have gross weight limits of around 7000 lbs. So make sure a tow vehicle will be capable of towing that weight.
It will also be much easier to tie the car down as you can easily get to the underside of the car once it's on the open trailer. If you choose to go with a U-Haul trailer, they provide a wheel-net style of a front tie down and standard ratchet straps for the rear. These trailers also have a removable left-side fender so getting in and out of the car will be very simple.
One thing with U-Haul and their car trailers is that they may want you to rent one of their trucks for towing. The "real" U-Haul stores can get pretty bitchy about customers not having a suitable tow vehicle. Try checking with self-storage lots that have U-Haul equipment. Also try Penske or Budget. Another option would be local equipment rental places.
You didn't mention what you will be using for a tow vehicle. The GS should weigh about 3400 lbs or so and steel open trailers can weigh up to 2000 lbs. Aluminum trailers will be lighter at 1000-1200 lbs. A 20' enclosed trailer like mine will weigh about 3000 lbs empty and may have gross weight limits of around 7000 lbs. So make sure a tow vehicle will be capable of towing that weight.
The U-Haul brand trailers are not all what they seem. Corvettes are difficult to get up on the trailer, and because of the approach angle you are going to need an assortment of wood pieces.
Also, depending on which trailer you get, it may be the one with a "gulley" up front where the front wheel rests and the netting is applied. Driving your Vette into that gulley presents problems with the spoiler getting over the front metal rub bar on the trailer. Again with more wood and a jack to build up the location, and th.en take the wood out so the car's wheel rests in the actual gulley, so the net can fit over it.
PITA !!
Just some thoughts about the infamous U-Haul. Oh, and some locales won't rent an open car hauler if you tell them you are putting a Corvette on it, because of the aforementioned.
#15
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I used the factory tie downs once
They bent real easy
Now I put the straps through the wheels, mich easier
Just wait for the brakes/exhaust to cool down
Keep an eye on the straps for fraying
They bent real easy
Now I put the straps through the wheels, mich easier
Just wait for the brakes/exhaust to cool down
Keep an eye on the straps for fraying
#16
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I paid a lot for the car so I don't mind spending some extra to get it home safe and clean. Found a place that has an enclosed for 75 a day, can't beat that.
Any way, thanks again guys.
Any way, thanks again guys.
#19
Melting Slicks
On a one time deal, haul to get it home with an overnight stay I'd say the hassle of an enclosed trailer would be worth the piece of mind that the car is getting home safe. Your first line did make me smile though. I am on some hot rod sites and the first question people ask after buying and expensive car is "who has the cheapest rates for delivery." People want to spend all this money on a car then cheap out on how it gets to them.
Good luck in your journey, enjoy the car. If you do stay overnight park in a well lit area and do some scouting first. I can't tell you then amount of stories I read where someone got their truck and trailer stolen with the car inside.
#20
Safety Car
On a one time deal, haul to get it home with an overnight stay I'd say the hassle of an enclosed trailer would be worth the piece of mind that the car is getting home safe. Your first line did make me smile though. I am on some hot rod sites and the first question people ask after buying and expensive car is "who has the cheapest rates for delivery." People want to spend all this money on a car then cheap out on how it gets to them.
Good luck in your journey, enjoy the car. If you do stay overnight park in a well lit area and do some scouting first. I can't tell you then amount of stories I read where someone got their truck and trailer stolen with the car inside.
Good luck in your journey, enjoy the car. If you do stay overnight park in a well lit area and do some scouting first. I can't tell you then amount of stories I read where someone got their truck and trailer stolen with the car inside.
Some strategic disabling of the tow vehicle while in the parking lot is recommended.
On my older Suburban simply popping the clip on the hot lead to the HEI and slipping it down a bit saved me. I woke up hearing the truck cranking over but not firing. They got away...and completely jacked up the steering column, but I still had everything there.
With today's fuel injected engines, simply pulling the fuse to the fuel pump will do the trick. If you want to get even sneakier...insert a blown one back into the spot so it doesn't look obvious.
Even better...find the one that feeds power to the ECM.