M224SPEED

Thanks,

Yes that is what I did right after checking the battery,and all connections,
this is getting to be more of a witch hunt , the only thing that functions are the headlights ,brake lights & power locks.
Anything else that requires the key to be in the on position such as power windows,radio, or anything like that are non functional,needless to say along with not cranking,but I think I am getting closer to resolving this.
Thanks again.

pcolt94

I would look at the maxi fuses, connections wires in and out of the boxes and anything else lose.

Specifically fuse block 1, fuse 2, 60 amp. Check the fuse connections for corrosion, wires out of the box and battery connection to the box.

If all that is OK, I would then check out the ignition switch connections, mechanical action and linkage down to it.

Smokeysvette

Not sure if this applies here on the Corvette but it might be a possibility. I had the exact problem on a 97 Camaro Z28 LT1 car, and it turned out to be the BCM (body control modual)

pcolt94

There are certain things that the CCM does control.

Power windows, radio HVAC, and wipers have nothing to do with the CCM (or BCM). But the above functions and more are basically independent of the CCM and are just wires, fuses and switches and run on straight 12 volts.

Smokeysvette

Yes I agree pcolt94.
I was just trying to give the OP some idea's and that's why I said:
"Not sure if this applies here on the Corvette but it might be a possibility."
But, it did do this same thing on my 97 Camaro Z28. Why? I have no idea. But that's what the dealer (under new car warranty at the time) replaced.
Hope he figures this out. If everything's dead and it's on a the same circuit it'll probably be easier to figure out. Looks like it might be a good idea to get the multi volt/ohm meter out and start tracing things back.

M224SPEED

Smokey & Colt , I have not had a chance to trace anything on the car the last couple of days, got involved in some chores around the house so this weekend I will be all over this problem,and again I thank you guys for your help,and will let you know whats going on ,good ,bad or otherwise.

M224SPEED

I had a friend of mine tell me this morning he had this issue on a 96 Firebird,and as best he remembered that was what was replaced on his car as well,so I will let you know what I find this weekend . ( I hope )

M224SPEED

Thanks again Pcolt94, I am going to be working on this again this weekend, except for Easter Sunday, again I thank you for your advice & will keep you informed to my findings.

cessnaguy1965

Staying tuned in to this bat channel...

M224SPEED

Cesnaguy, a little humor right now is very welcome,. Thanks.

If your old enough,you might even remember Bruno J. Grunion , from KXOK

If not,no biggy.

M224SPEED

Cesna,Pcolt,Smokey & all the rest of you all that gave me suggestions on the problem that has benn driving me nuts ! Well the problem has been found and fixed, the negative battery cable looked good on the outside,but the insiside once i used a razor knife to peel back the insulation was nothing but corrosion from begining to end & not a bit visible to the naked eye from the outside.
I replaced it last night & she started right up,the next thing to do was look at other gound wires,and no problems were found.
Now my thoughts are since I did check this battery for the electrolyte level when doing all the testing it was not low, this is the third battery in the car since I have owned it,what caused the start of this mass corrsion? could a prior battery have allowed acid to have been drawn from the battery and wicked into the - cable somehow enough to have allowed the corrosion to begin and then being sealed with the protective rubber / plastic coating covering tha cable disguised this over the years? Well that is anyones guess,but it is what I have come up with,and the problem solved. So a lesson learned to never overlook anything ,but it sure had me stumped. Maybe this will help someone else another day ! Again THANKS to you all !!!

pcolt94

Congratulations on success.

It sure does not make sense that the headlights would work but not the dash lights and gauges as they would take less current than the headlights and running lights.

I think the FSM is great. But I believe more things get fixed from troubleshooting, making measurements, taking data and visual inspection than from flow charts and codes although they are helpful at times. Sometimes you just flat out have to get in there and dig out the problems.

M224SPEED

I agree 100% with the headlights working plus the fact that when I jumped the solenoid at the starter the engine spun over as if it had two batteries hooked up.If you saw this cable you would have thought it came from a flood car,but I know better than that.

The other three battery changes only once showed a very slight amount of corrosion on the negative cable where the bolt goes through ,and I cleaned it completey ,that was about 5 years ago. A new battery was installed fall of 2013 and both cable ends were as clean as could be.
Basics 101 right ? LOL
Thanks again