tntwolt

system is pretty much empty, how can i remove R-12 oil so i can recharge with 134? and do i need to change the dryer?

vinniemc

Send a PM to username SunCr, he is the AC guru on here!

tntwolt

dummy here, how do i send a PM?

Muffin

This will get you started:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=146&TopicID=2

tntwolt

does anybody know anything about this?

GREGGPENN

According to my local guy/shop, the "simple" method for swapping from R12 to R134a is not recommended. He explained (to me) that R134 is a smaller particle and is more apt to leak from a problematic R12 unit -- than R12. He added that their were efficiency design changes in the newer systems to get the 134 to cool as well as R12. So, putting 134 in an R12 unit won't cool as well as if R12 were in it...or if you converted to a true 134 system.

I was discouraged by this after hearing conversion stories in the past. He seems pretty adament and I like what he usually has to say about mechanics. Makes it harder to doubt him on this one.

Churchkey

Suggest ES12A.

http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm

eutu1984

i used the above when I replaced my condenser, worked great.

scotth48

When you used this did you have to delete the r12 or will it mix ok? I just bought a used engine which came with AC unit ('93) that had r12 but was emptied for shipping purpose. my vehicle had 134 in it. I am putting in a new condenser and drier/accumulator and will flush the evaporator with "Power Clean & Flush" by A/C Pro I got from my napa dealer. my hoses had some oil in them and looked pretty bad so I thought I would replace two of the easy to get to pieces.

This product also mentions that it uses less as compared to r12, or should you use the same amount in the system?

Mtn Billy

R134 does'nt cool as good as R12. My 85 set for years and the R12 leaked off. I recharged with R134 and have 50 - 60 deg F and no problems. So I think your mechanic is problematic with that advise

bczee

I have used DuraCool in place of R12. just another one to use or try.

to do a correct job, you would need to flush the system, replace all of the o-rings and the dryer.. other area to consider swapping are the compressor and condensor (a key item to really replace with one rated for 134a)..

If done right and swapping parts that are rated for 134a. .it will cool pertty well (but not as well in a system that was designed for R12). But it will be costly. And to get it working optimally.. leave it to a pro who know what to replace and charge correctly.

just my opinon..

BC

Churchkey

New components will require additional refer oil, I use Ester oil with 134 & ES12a freon.

System open = most if not all of the 12 is now in the atmosphere causing sight & hair loss on llamas & goats in S America

If you do not have a charging station ES12A fill quantity is not important. Vacuum the system down, recharge with enough product to get recommended system pressure.

scotth48

Update as I may not have been clear as to what I am doing. My old system had been converted to R134a from R12. Now that I have gotten a new /used engine out of another '93 I am going back to R12. I am putting in a new drier/accumulator, new condenser and flushing the old evaporator. Part of what I was asking was about R12 alternatives that being the ES12a that had been mentioned. Some safety issues with that was it being flammable. Because of that I am going to stick with regular R12 and not convert it to any other product. Looking to buy DuPont Igloo brand NOS product and oil. I would rather pay a premium for the right stuff, than damage or be dissatisfied with some other product. Thanks for your input.

MotorCity_87_C4

replaced the compressor, condenser, accum/dryer, oriface tube and R134 o-rings. The compressor was built for R134. Filled with R134 oil puled a vacuum and then filled with 2 cans of R134. AC has been blowin cold air for 3 summers now.

SSSmokin99

I agree that it is generally best to stay with real, virgin R-12 from reputable source in systems that came with R-12 from the factory. Conversion is hit & miss. A new accumulator is a good idea in a 20+ year old car to prolong the life of the other components, esp the R-4 compressor....

GREGGPENN

Does that mean the addition of one of these r-12 alternatives wouldn't be recommended as a "fill" to "top-off" an OEM unit still containing SOME r-12?

Local car shop wants $75 hook-up + $75/lb to fill my system. It's never needed any and is an '89 that I've had since '99. Who likes this option versus an R-12 clone?

GREGGPENN

bump

gerardvg

I swapped from R12 to R134A more than six years ago, drained the oil from the compressor and replaced with ESTER oil (do not use pag oil that is only for new systems and will not work with any remaining traces of mineral oil)

Of course i replaced the o rings AND THE RUBBER HOSES R134A has smaller particles that will leak out and damages the hoses. New drier and orifice tube. Still has the same condenser and she still blows cold.

You guys are lucky over in the United States.. R12 was banned in Australia many many years ago, you need to have a refrigerant handling license to buy and use any refrigerants here of face massive fines.

GREGGPENN

Nobody knows if you have to evacuate r-12 before using one of these alternative products?

eutu1984

You could go to there web site and ask but the way i understand it its compatible with R-12 and 134.
http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm