1996 vette thermostat question
#21
Melting Slicks
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Location: Warren NJ
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Thanks for the responses, the former owner put a 160 in the car not a 180 I just changed the t-stat today to a 180. I noticed the gasket on the new t-stat isn't as thick as the one on the 160 was, do I need to put any type of mr gasket on the housing?
#22
Instructor
i use an oem 195 degree thermostat in my 94 and i have never had any overheating issues. the temp needle always hovers around 200 degrees, even in stop and go traffic. last year when the engine coolant temp was raising to an uncomfortable level i started to dig into the issue a little further. i found that i had leaves blocking my radiator and ac condenser. i cleaned them all out and this year i have had no issues what so ever.
#23
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Location: Port St. Lucie West Florida
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I have a stock 180 in my LT1 and Dewitt's radiator and still on hwy it runs 200 - 203 but cools down faster and climbs up slower(3.07 rear)
Last edited by enventr; 07-06-2013 at 11:51 AM.
#24
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Something seems amiss there. With that massive radiator, you should be down "agains the T-stat" most of the time. As mentioned earlier, mine runs cooler than that and I have the stock/original radiator.
#26
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Maybe...but I have a 3.45 in my car.
#27
Instructor
#28
Instructor
#30
Le Mans Master
Do YOU??
It CAN run cooler, b/c the water continues to circulate (and thus, COOL), down to a lower minimum operating temp, which is governed by the T-stat. Provided there is airflow, and the radiator functions properly, it should run at a lower temp.
Is it necessary? No.
It CAN run cooler, b/c the water continues to circulate (and thus, COOL), down to a lower minimum operating temp, which is governed by the T-stat. Provided there is airflow, and the radiator functions properly, it should run at a lower temp.
Is it necessary? No.
Last edited by WW7; 07-08-2013 at 11:08 AM.
#31
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Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
#32
Le Mans Master
Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
Last edited by WW7; 07-07-2013 at 06:46 AM.
#33
Instructor
Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
#34
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Me too. TEST, before throwing parts. An EGR is a very easy part to test.
That being said, I have not seen bad EGR's causing high operating temps. The EGR lowers combustion temps when open, has no effect when closed.
That being said, I have not seen bad EGR's causing high operating temps. The EGR lowers combustion temps when open, has no effect when closed.
#35
Instructor
I didn't know any test to tell me it was stuck half open other than looking at it and once it was out it wasn't worth not changing on a 22 year old car. Any yes it was the cause on my L98. See my post above. Its recirciulating exhaust into the motor, thats hot. Its adding more heat into the motor.