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1996 vette thermostat question

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Old 07-05-2013, 09:43 PM
  #21  
onefast99
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Thanks for the responses, the former owner put a 160 in the car not a 180 I just changed the t-stat today to a 180. I noticed the gasket on the new t-stat isn't as thick as the one on the 160 was, do I need to put any type of mr gasket on the housing?
Old 07-06-2013, 09:21 AM
  #22  
richauto
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Originally Posted by mazdaverx7
i use an oem 195 degree thermostat in my 94 and i have never had any overheating issues. the temp needle always hovers around 200 degrees, even in stop and go traffic. last year when the engine coolant temp was raising to an uncomfortable level i started to dig into the issue a little further. i found that i had leaves blocking my radiator and ac condenser. i cleaned them all out and this year i have had no issues what so ever.
I agree with mazdaverx7
Old 07-06-2013, 11:48 AM
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enventr
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
For those that don't already know, all LT1/4's came from the factory with 180 degree thermostats.

I have a stock 180 in my LT1 and Dewitt's radiator and still on hwy it runs 200 - 203 but cools down faster and climbs up slower(3.07 rear)

Last edited by enventr; 07-06-2013 at 11:51 AM.
Old 07-06-2013, 12:29 PM
  #24  
Tom400CFI
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Something seems amiss there. With that massive radiator, you should be down "agains the T-stat" most of the time. As mentioned earlier, mine runs cooler than that and I have the stock/original radiator.
Old 07-06-2013, 08:04 PM
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enventr
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Something seems amiss there. With that massive radiator, you should be down "agains the T-stat" most of the time. As mentioned earlier, mine runs cooler than that and I have the stock/original radiator.
Maybe my 3.07 rear revs higher than the 2.59 stock creating a slight increase in temp.
Old 07-06-2013, 09:49 PM
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Tom400CFI
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Maybe...but I have a 3.45 in my car.
Old 07-07-2013, 12:19 AM
  #27  
Netfly
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Originally Posted by enventr



I have a stock 180 in my LT1 and Dewitt's radiator and still on hwy it runs 200 - 203 but cools down faster and climbs up slower(3.07 rear)
When you come off the highway and idle or go slow does it cool down?
Old 07-07-2013, 12:30 AM
  #28  
Netfly
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Originally Posted by onefast99
Thanks for the responses, the former owner put a 160 in the car not a 180 I just changed the t-stat today to a 180. I noticed the gasket on the new t-stat isn't as thick as the one on the 160 was, do I need to put any type of mr gasket on the housing?
I like to use Permatex High Tack on the gasket.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV9E/ref=asc_df_B000HBNV9E2591093/?tag=becomcom00452-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000HBNV9E&linkCode=asn http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV9E/ref=asc_df_B000HBNV9E2591093/?tag=becomcom00452-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B000HBNV9E&linkCode=asn
Old 07-07-2013, 12:40 AM
  #29  
STL94LT1
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No sealant is required for an LT1 thermostat, rubber gasket on the t-stat does the sealing.
Old 07-07-2013, 06:19 AM
  #30  
WW7
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Do YOU??

It CAN run cooler, b/c the water continues to circulate (and thus, COOL), down to a lower minimum operating temp, which is governed by the T-stat. Provided there is airflow, and the radiator functions properly, it should run at a lower temp.

Is it necessary? No.
When I had the Stewart racing thermostat in my 89 , on cool mornings with temps in the 60s, on the highway, my engine temp would get down to 160-165 degrees which I considered to low....I had to put a "Stant super stat" in to control my temps better... The 180 degree super stat I have in now won't let my temps get below 175, as soon as the temp gets down to 175 the stat partially closes which causes the temps to rise to 180 degrees again.The "Super Stat" is the only thermostat I know of that controls your temps within such a tight range.Alot of other stats will let your temps go way lower before they close again....So on cold days with a 160 degree stat your engine temps "will" be lower then with a 180 degree stat, on hot days the engine will run up to whatever temps your cooling system will allow....WW

Last edited by WW7; 07-08-2013 at 11:08 AM.
Old 07-07-2013, 06:33 AM
  #31  
enventr
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Originally Posted by Netfly
When you come off the highway and idle or go slow does it cool down?
Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
Old 07-07-2013, 06:43 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by enventr
Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
The most efficient means of controlling your temps is to use a lower thermostat along with changing you fan settings.. When I installed the 383 in my car the tuner had me install a 180 degree stat and programmed my fans to come on at 190 and off at 180..This kept my upper temps within a ten degree range, then he tuned my car for those tempertures...If you want to keep your temps close to stock leave the car like it is, don't change anything, these cars have been run for years just like they are without damage.........WW

Last edited by WW7; 07-07-2013 at 06:46 AM.
Old 07-07-2013, 09:08 AM
  #33  
Netfly
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Originally Posted by enventr
Sometimes driving locally temps will be 195 that is without stopping for red lights which does elevate temps. I also forgot to mention that I have a small staked plate trans cooler mounted about an inch away from a/c condenser.I know by reprogramming fans and adding a 160 stat will make it cooler but I want to keep it close to stock.I also believe the "big mouth" air dam would increase the airflow making it cooler but I do not like the looks of it
So its elevated in temp around town too. May be worth trying a new EGR. I hate throwing parts at a problem, but if it hasn't been changed it may be time. It wasn't that expensive or hard to do on a L98. That said, I don't know the LT1 that well. So there may be other factors involved.
Old 07-07-2013, 12:17 PM
  #34  
Tom400CFI
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Originally Posted by Netfly
May be worth trying a new EGR. I hate throwing parts at a problem,
Me too. TEST, before throwing parts. An EGR is a very easy part to test.

That being said, I have not seen bad EGR's causing high operating temps. The EGR lowers combustion temps when open, has no effect when closed.
Old 07-07-2013, 02:59 PM
  #35  
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I didn't know any test to tell me it was stuck half open other than looking at it and once it was out it wasn't worth not changing on a 22 year old car. Any yes it was the cause on my L98. See my post above. Its recirciulating exhaust into the motor, thats hot. Its adding more heat into the motor.



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