Now that I have the parts, I need BIG help with installation!
04-03-2013, 06:41 PM
#1
Racer
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Now that I have the parts, I need BIG help with installation!
Sorry for all the threads! I ordered 13 inch rotors, calipers with brackets, and Hawk HPS pads to replace the 12 inch equipment on my 1992. Brake fluid is next, not sure what kind I should get for daily driving and autocross though. (DOT3 or 4, or Valvoline 3/4?)
I'm a novice and don't know how to install this stuff, but I do really want to learn. I know I need to bleed the brakes and put new fluid in, any tips on this would be greatly appreciated. I've read about the two person method a little bit but I want to make sure I don't get air in the lines.
This will sound dumb, but that's okay: Do I need the entire car on jackstands or can I jack it up one wheel at a time, and bleed each wheel one at a time, then go to the next wheel? Keep in mind I'm changing the front calipers and rotors only! Obviously when I have each front wheel up I'll be changing hardware, while on the rear I'll just be bleeding.
Are there any special tools I'll need? I have a torque wrench and socket set and basic tools.
If anyone has experience with swapping in J55 rotors and calipers please chime in. Sorry for not knowing much, we all started somewhere.
TIA
I'm a novice and don't know how to install this stuff, but I do really want to learn. I know I need to bleed the brakes and put new fluid in, any tips on this would be greatly appreciated. I've read about the two person method a little bit but I want to make sure I don't get air in the lines.
This will sound dumb, but that's okay: Do I need the entire car on jackstands or can I jack it up one wheel at a time, and bleed each wheel one at a time, then go to the next wheel? Keep in mind I'm changing the front calipers and rotors only! Obviously when I have each front wheel up I'll be changing hardware, while on the rear I'll just be bleeding.
Are there any special tools I'll need? I have a torque wrench and socket set and basic tools.
If anyone has experience with swapping in J55 rotors and calipers please chime in. Sorry for not knowing much, we all started somewhere.
TIA
04-03-2013, 07:09 PM
#2
I had just typed this in your other thread....
Here yu go.:
Vinnie, as far as the installation, it is pretty much removing your old ones and installing the new ones. everything fits in the same place.
I recommend you buy and replace the brakelines, since one possible cause of warped rotors is the calipers not retrieving completely due to a partially collapsed line, and overheating the rotor and wearing the pads. Some times this is not too noticeable in the street, but the harder work at the track brings the crisis on.
When I did my swap, I lined up the hardware for both sides separately, made sure to wash and clean the rotors, and started the disassembly. Leave the caliper that you are removing assempled with the abutment bracket so that you can look at it and compare which one of the new ones goes where. Pay special attention to the anti-rattle springs that may or may not be included with your new brake pads. If they are not included, reused the old ones in the new pads.
re-install and connect your new brake lines and do not forget the bronze washer between the line and the caliper. Make sure that the pin and cotter pin are secured on the caliper.
You will be amazed to see that everything floats and that the pads are only snapped into the holes and then ride lined up in the brackets when pushed by the caliper. the new rotor will be thicker and larger, and the brake pads too. you might have a bit of a hard time getting the pads onto the rotor, but they will go in. New abutment brackets will bolt right up like the older-smaller ones.
Complete the assembly on the opposite side and if you are replacing the rear pads, (which I would recommend to keep a balanced brake bias action, start your bleeding process from the rear right (furthest from the master cylinder), bleed until fresh clean brake fluid bleeds out and move on th left rear and repeat.
Use a clear line for bleeding so you can see when clear fluid comes out.
Move on to front right and finally front left wheel repeating the bleeding until fluid comes out clear.
If you are using the old method of someone pushing the pedal for you to bleed, before disassembling the old brakes, have someone push the pedal brake and find a block of wood that would fit between the pedal and the firewall when pedal is depressed and preventing the pedal from bottoming out. This will prevent the master cylinder from being damaged by depressing the rod into an area that might be rusted and damaging the master cylinder seals.
Other than that, if it is too sunny while you work, either wear a hat backwards or wear sunblock... I could not wear suit and tie the next day due to the neck sunburn... lol
Here yu go.:
Vinnie, as far as the installation, it is pretty much removing your old ones and installing the new ones. everything fits in the same place.
I recommend you buy and replace the brakelines, since one possible cause of warped rotors is the calipers not retrieving completely due to a partially collapsed line, and overheating the rotor and wearing the pads. Some times this is not too noticeable in the street, but the harder work at the track brings the crisis on.
When I did my swap, I lined up the hardware for both sides separately, made sure to wash and clean the rotors, and started the disassembly. Leave the caliper that you are removing assempled with the abutment bracket so that you can look at it and compare which one of the new ones goes where. Pay special attention to the anti-rattle springs that may or may not be included with your new brake pads. If they are not included, reused the old ones in the new pads.
re-install and connect your new brake lines and do not forget the bronze washer between the line and the caliper. Make sure that the pin and cotter pin are secured on the caliper.
You will be amazed to see that everything floats and that the pads are only snapped into the holes and then ride lined up in the brackets when pushed by the caliper. the new rotor will be thicker and larger, and the brake pads too. you might have a bit of a hard time getting the pads onto the rotor, but they will go in. New abutment brackets will bolt right up like the older-smaller ones.
Complete the assembly on the opposite side and if you are replacing the rear pads, (which I would recommend to keep a balanced brake bias action, start your bleeding process from the rear right (furthest from the master cylinder), bleed until fresh clean brake fluid bleeds out and move on th left rear and repeat.
Use a clear line for bleeding so you can see when clear fluid comes out.
Move on to front right and finally front left wheel repeating the bleeding until fluid comes out clear.
If you are using the old method of someone pushing the pedal for you to bleed, before disassembling the old brakes, have someone push the pedal brake and find a block of wood that would fit between the pedal and the firewall when pedal is depressed and preventing the pedal from bottoming out. This will prevent the master cylinder from being damaged by depressing the rod into an area that might be rusted and damaging the master cylinder seals.
Other than that, if it is too sunny while you work, either wear a hat backwards or wear sunblock... I could not wear suit and tie the next day due to the neck sunburn... lol
04-03-2013, 07:14 PM
#3
Team Owner
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Location: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
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Helped a friend do it on a 94
You need to look up how to bleed the ABS unit in the manual
There's been several editions of the ABS unit.
Some have bleeders on them, some don't.
You need to look up how to bleed the ABS unit in the manual
There's been several editions of the ABS unit.
Some have bleeders on them, some don't.
04-03-2013, 07:24 PM
#4
Normally, unless you are changing master cylinders or you have allowed them to suck air in the system while bleeding the master cylinder dry, you are not likely to need to bleed the ABS system.
Sometimes you do though...
Sometimes you do though...
04-03-2013, 08:00 PM
#5
Racer
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Member Since: May 2012
Location: Peabody MA
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I had just typed this in your other thread....
Here yu go.:
Vinnie, as far as the installation, it is pretty much removing your old ones and installing the new ones. everything fits in the same place.
I recommend you buy and replace the brakelines, since one possible cause of warped rotors is the calipers not retrieving completely due to a partially collapsed line, and overheating the rotor and wearing the pads. Some times this is not too noticeable in the street, but the harder work at the track brings the crisis on.
When I did my swap, I lined up the hardware for both sides separately, made sure to wash and clean the rotors, and started the disassembly. Leave the caliper that you are removing assempled with the abutment bracket so that you can look at it and compare which one of the new ones goes where. Pay special attention to the anti-rattle springs that may or may not be included with your new brake pads. If they are not included, reused the old ones in the new pads.
re-install and connect your new brake lines and do not forget the bronze washer between the line and the caliper. Make sure that the pin and cotter pin are secured on the caliper.
You will be amazed to see that everything floats and that the pads are only snapped into the holes and then ride lined up in the brackets when pushed by the caliper. the new rotor will be thicker and larger, and the brake pads too. you might have a bit of a hard time getting the pads onto the rotor, but they will go in. New abutment brackets will bolt right up like the older-smaller ones.
Complete the assembly on the opposite side and if you are replacing the rear pads, (which I would recommend to keep a balanced brake bias action, start your bleeding process from the rear right (furthest from the master cylinder), bleed until fresh clean brake fluid bleeds out and move on th left rear and repeat.
Use a clear line for bleeding so you can see when clear fluid comes out.
Move on to front right and finally front left wheel repeating the bleeding until fluid comes out clear.
If you are using the old method of someone pushing the pedal for you to bleed, before disassembling the old brakes, have someone push the pedal brake and find a block of wood that would fit between the pedal and the firewall when pedal is depressed and preventing the pedal from bottoming out. This will prevent the master cylinder from being damaged by depressing the rod into an area that might be rusted and damaging the master cylinder seals.
Other than that, if it is too sunny while you work, either wear a hat backwards or wear sunblock... I could not wear suit and tie the next day due to the neck sunburn... lol
Here yu go.:
Vinnie, as far as the installation, it is pretty much removing your old ones and installing the new ones. everything fits in the same place.
I recommend you buy and replace the brakelines, since one possible cause of warped rotors is the calipers not retrieving completely due to a partially collapsed line, and overheating the rotor and wearing the pads. Some times this is not too noticeable in the street, but the harder work at the track brings the crisis on.
When I did my swap, I lined up the hardware for both sides separately, made sure to wash and clean the rotors, and started the disassembly. Leave the caliper that you are removing assempled with the abutment bracket so that you can look at it and compare which one of the new ones goes where. Pay special attention to the anti-rattle springs that may or may not be included with your new brake pads. If they are not included, reused the old ones in the new pads.
re-install and connect your new brake lines and do not forget the bronze washer between the line and the caliper. Make sure that the pin and cotter pin are secured on the caliper.
You will be amazed to see that everything floats and that the pads are only snapped into the holes and then ride lined up in the brackets when pushed by the caliper. the new rotor will be thicker and larger, and the brake pads too. you might have a bit of a hard time getting the pads onto the rotor, but they will go in. New abutment brackets will bolt right up like the older-smaller ones.
Complete the assembly on the opposite side and if you are replacing the rear pads, (which I would recommend to keep a balanced brake bias action, start your bleeding process from the rear right (furthest from the master cylinder), bleed until fresh clean brake fluid bleeds out and move on th left rear and repeat.
Use a clear line for bleeding so you can see when clear fluid comes out.
Move on to front right and finally front left wheel repeating the bleeding until fluid comes out clear.
If you are using the old method of someone pushing the pedal for you to bleed, before disassembling the old brakes, have someone push the pedal brake and find a block of wood that would fit between the pedal and the firewall when pedal is depressed and preventing the pedal from bottoming out. This will prevent the master cylinder from being damaged by depressing the rod into an area that might be rusted and damaging the master cylinder seals.
Other than that, if it is too sunny while you work, either wear a hat backwards or wear sunblock... I could not wear suit and tie the next day due to the neck sunburn... lol