Steve85

What mounts did you use? How did moving the engine further forward effect the c-beam fitment?

I was going to modify the mounts to move the engine forward but the c-beam measured out too short.

hypntyz

Well, I kind of lucked up on the whole deal.

I was on offtopic.com shooting the (edit: really? we can't say **** here? ugh...) and mentioned that I was about to start my c4 LS swap project. Out of the blue a poster mentioned that he had some parts for sale that would help me. He is apparently known here as "jeffvette". Turns out he already had a c4 LS/T56 converted track car that he was reverting back to LT4 (or something, if memory serves). So he was offering to sell me his LS motor mounts, t56 tailshaft adapter, modified cbeam, and custom driveshaft. Obviously I jumped on the whole deal immediately.

The Cbeam was just a stock one with the holes slotted out maybe an inch or 2.

The motor mount adapters had "vetteworks" stickers on them.




Here you can see my fitment:

ch@0s

How did you get that R4 compressor on there?

miker94

Well just reading this thread and going to start my LS swap soon. I've got an 94 with the zf six speed. Just hoping that I can get the dash and gauges worked out. Going with the T56. Interesting reading.

miker2

my engine may be in a different fore-aft location,but I tried an oil filler like that and it hit the inner hood. the cap will screw right into the valve cover without the elbow.

ch@0s

Mine doesn't hit. I was asking what adapter he used for the A/C compressor.

bspvette

Hey Guys,
Thanks for the input on our oil pan clearance issues the other day. We decided to just switch to the F-Body pan, so that is good now.

But now we have another issue. We have the engine mounted in the stock location. We removed the heater box a long time ago, and covered the flat opening. The right cylinder head clears that flat part of the firewall by only about 3/4". we can't move the engine back any futher without cutting into the firewall. The drivers side clearance isn't a problem since the firewall is recessed a little further, and the engine seems to slide just past the foot box.

But here's the new problem:
The Tranny (700R4) bolted up fine, but when we tried to attach the C-Beam it was about 2" too short. Everything lined up fine with the old SBC. I don't see any way to make this C-Beam work other than cutting the firewall & moving the engine back 2", or lengthening the C-Beam and driveshaft.

Of all the LSX swaps I've read about on here, I don't recall reading about anybody severely cutting into their firewall, or lengthening their C-Beam/Driveshaft. Somebody please tell me what I am missing.

Thanks,
BeerMan

ch@0s

The reason most of us use the 1" set back plated is so the Cbeam will be closer. I only had to notch my bolt holes a-little to get it to like up. If I were you I would spend some time going through some of our threads to get a better Idea. Also if you have a D44 I believe you will need a D36 C-beam to get closer but I could be wrong.

hypntyz

By being a bada$$.

I just sat down with the engine out of the car and stared at the compressor and the accessory drive and figured out a way to make it work.

It involved a piston wrist pin from a daewoo 2.0 motor, a smog pump bracket from an rx7, and a spare stock idler pulley and stock tensioner pulley from the LS6.

I first noticed that the belt alignment was really close and the compressor really didn't need any kind of spacer or bracket, it could almost bolt directly to the head. So I experimented around. I found a metric bolt and ground the head down to clear the pulley, then ground a slot in the pulley to allow better access to the bolt.






Of course I knew with the compressor in place the stock tensioner would have to be removed, so I'd have to use the compressor as a belt tensioner too. So I found an air pump bracket from an rx7 and cut it up to make a small tensioner adjuster for the compressor.




I had to modify a bolt to fit in the tight clearance between the motor and compressor/bracket.








Then I needed to adjust belt alignment slightly with a couple washers.




Here's a comparison of the belt alignment with the stock LS tensioner (which has to be deleted) and the compressor.




Then I wound up needing to add a spacer for the bracket also.



So I removed the stock tensioner and reused the pulley, and cut down a piston wrist pin as a spacer, then used a bolt and washer to install it as an idler.







So right about now, you're asking yourself, how is that belt going to clear the thermostat housing? Well I needed another idler pulley so I had to make a bracket to hold it, and "clearance" the water pump slightly. The idler is a stock pulley from the drivers side of a LS1/LS6 corvette accessory drive beside the PS pulley.










The belt I used for the longer setup.

miker2

pretty creative--looks good. i'd check for vibration while the compressor is engaged to see if you need a brace on the outboard side down to one of the header bolts.

hypntyz

Yeah, it's not plumbed or charged yet, just sitting there as a dummy. I cracked one of the aluminum pipes trying to tweak it for fitment...the compressor ultimately moved backward about 2 inches so I was trying to bend the pipe slightly (still charged and hooked up from the original engine) when I cracked the pipe and spewed out a fresh charge of freeze 12.

miker2

if you have a local welding shop,that crack can be tig welded.

hypntyz

That's the plan.

ch@0s

Guys ck this out I think it would be Ideal for a standard unless you want to get a separate trans controller. It aint cheap but it replaces O2s, fuel rails, wiring and PCM. If you ad the cost of those half of the price and the hassle of tuning are gone even with future mods.

STEVEN13

Looks cool-But $2500-$3500

Steve

ch@0s

Yes that was my first though. Then I stated thinking about what it will save us.
Harness $700
Fuel rails $300
ECM $200
Tuning can be expensive I have payed $300 for tuning so far and will need another tune when I replace my injectors.

Just throwing it out there as an option.

I Imagine I could have kept my PCM rebuilt my 700R4 to be a monster got a Converter to go from LS to old school trans. Then all I would have had to do was remove my injector harness and put this in its place. Everything from the 91 would have worked as desined and made things a little more simple.

Tom400CFI

Looks sweet. Sounds sweet. How does it work compared to the OEM stuff? Hopefully better than other MSD products! It looks awesome though.

STEVEN13

Thanks! I also seen it on a recent Horse Power show.

Steve

ch@0s

Tom I saw it on Hot Rod TV and watched the video I posted. I really haven't looked into it in depth. I do see one thing right away, I don't think it can control a transmission. I really only see a few benefits above the LS stock ECM at a glance. The coolness factor, wiring and fuel all tucked neatly and no more tuning. Another concern is the fuel rail cross over in the rear. It may cause fitment issues, however on a return less system may not be necessary.

The Stock LS ECM is capable ..very capable and I'm sure someone will point that out soon. That said if my budget would permit I would be ordering this right now because of the plug and play factor. It also looks so neat and clean.

Tom400CFI

I agree. It looks trick. Clean. Tight package, very cleverly and smartly designed. I am initially impressed. I'd consider it for sure, if I were going there...and I may!