fixvet

C4 Ramps for under $45 -- 1 of 1
Date Published: 2001-06-15

Submitter's Name: John Richman
Email Address:
Corvetteforum.com Member Alias:

by John Richman

How do you get under
a C4 to change oil & filter? Conventional ramps are too steep and perilously
slip. I made a set in the Fall in a few nights for under $45. Start with
10 clean 2x6x8 pine boards. Mark 27" in from each end and draw a line
from top to bottom. Saw all 10 on that line. That gives you 20 sections.
Glue and using threaded rod, bolt 10 together twice, giving you 2 10 ply
laminates. Stain dark and varnish. Install 2 strong handles on one side
to move. They weigh near 45 lbs each. They lift the car gradually 5.5"
regardless of tire size. They will not slip. I have pics if you want.

Hey John, Your email address is defunct,can you send us some pictures of your ramps??

JTsTOY

Try this diagram:

I built these in about an hour out of some scrap 2x8 I had laying around. :cheers:

[Modified by JTsTOY, 3:22 PM 5/7/2002]


[Modified by JTsTOY, 3:23 PM 5/7/2002]

squeaky g

I just drive the left front tire on two pieces of 2x6's and its plenty of clearance to change the oil and filter.

dizwiz24

When it comes to lifting/ supporting cars, just be careful, I have heard of so many people around me getting crushed by improperly supported cars.

CBall

To JTsToy: you are the genuis with the ramp idea that I saw last fall!!!!!
I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy, I'm not worthy.... :D
That is the greatest idea.. I have a set following what I remembered from your diagram. I came across an old diving board and had at it with my trusty table saw. Man, those ramps are the ticket!!!! :yesnod: They are heavy enough so that there is no way to slip!! Plus, I put on positive back stops in the rear so there is no way to over-shoot!! Heck, the oil changes in the beater are about 70% easier using my C4 ramps!!!
:cheers: to ya!!!!!

Chief Muktar

The first time I changed th oil in my old 88 I ended up using about 300 blocks of 2x4 that were cut up for the kids as toy blocks. It only took about 2 hours to make the ramps :lol: :crazy: For a 20 minute oil change

Vette Ed

Thanx!

:cheers:

Scoob

Dudes - you need to check out Arisa's homemade ramps. I've got some pics of his that I'll upload in a minute. It's A+ stuff!

Paul Campbell

Here's a couple of pics of ramps I designed and had a welding shop fabricate. They are 15 in wide x 15 in tall. Best part is the removable ramp while the car is on the "box" so access is greatly improved.





Hmmm. Red X's. I'll try to fix.


[Modified by Paul Campbell, 9:04 AM 5/8/2002]

Home page says internal server error. I'll try later.


[Modified by Paul Campbell, 9:07 AM 5/8/2002]


[Modified by Paul Campbell, 9:15 AM 5/8/2002]


[Modified by Paul Campbell, 10:38 AM 5/8/2002]

Scoob

Here you go. This is is Arisa's design. I tried to look for the original post but it's been wiped from the archives.

fixvet

Thanks guys for all the replys, you've given me some new inspiration and ideas to make my own ramps this weekend.
:)

JTsTOY

Thank you for the kind words CBall! :cheers: I just couldn't see paying $30 or so bucks for the plastic ones that don't have the right angle and also slide around, especially when I had the scrap laying around. I plan on building another set this year out of wider pressure treated stuff. I've done everything from routine maintenance to shifter install on mine, the only thing I would consider replacing them with would be a quicklift. :seeya

Rex Ruby

ARISA can you post your plans or did anyone save ARISAs plans that could post? :cheers:

ittlfly

ARISA lift may not be as pretty as the Kwik Lift but on the other hand, it would be a lot cheaper. Also, unlike the expensive lifts, it is removable for storage. I would really like the plans on this. Can someone post them?????

Scoob

OK - This is a cut/paste job from Arisa's post of May 7, 2001. Remember, Arisa gets full credit for this.

======

Below is the list of materials & a description of the parts. Unless noted I used 3" grabber screws (these have the course drywall type thread on them.) I predrilled all the boards. I drilled the pass through board & didn't drill the anchoring board. I can't think of a good way to explain this. My total cost was just under $75.00. I will get some close ups of the pedestals & post them tonight or tomorrow. Note: I made my fronts & rears different heights to accommodate the slight slope that my garage has. If you don't care about compensating for or if you don't have a slope you can make the fronts & rears the same (either design).
Materials required per SIDE

Front Pedestal
2pcs - 2 "x 10" x 23" (top & bottom)
2pcs - 2" x 6" x approx. 9.5" (width of 2"x 10")
1pc - 2" x 6" x 20"
1pc - 2" x 4" x approx. 9.5" (front stop)
2pc - 2" x 4" x approx. 7" (used to support bridges)

Attach short 2"x 6" pcs to the long 2" x 6" form an "I" so the 6" part is up/down. Next attach a 2" x 10" to the top and bottom the attach the stop to the top front of the pedestal & the last two 2" x 4" to the rear of the stop at the edges for the bridge support.

Rear Pedestal

2pcs - 2 "x 10" x 23" (top & bottom)
2pcs - 2 "x 10" x approx. 9.5" (width of 2"x 10")
4pcs - 2" x 4" x 20" (side supports)
4pc - 2" x 4" x approx. 9.25" (used to support bridges & ramps)

Attach the 2" x 4" to each corner of the 9.5" 2" x 10" (the cut part of the 2" x 10" should be on the sides of the unit not up/down. The 2" x 4" need to be installed so the 4" part will be up/down when the pedestal is in use. Put the top on the unit & the front & rear bridge/ ramp supports.

Bridges

You will need to do some math on this one. Mine are 6' but really need to be about 6'2". Measure the distance of the wheel base (center of hub to center of hub). Subtract 23" from this number & it will tell you how long the bridges need to be. Buy 8' lengths & you will be covered.

1pc - 2" x 10" x measurement found above
1pc - 2" x 4" x measurement found above
4pcs - 2" x 4" x 9.25"
2pcs - 2"x 4" x 5.75"

Attach the 2" x 4" to the bottom of the 2" x 10" centered left to right.
Build the bridge supports as shown in the last picture (they are at the top). 2 long 2" x 4"s with the short one sandwiched between. I made these a little longer than this to start with and trimmed them down for a good solid fit. I marked the bridges in 1/3 of the way from each end also so I would know where the supports need to be placed.

Ramps

Again you will need to do some measuring. Place a pedestal in front of the car. Slide it toward or away from the car until you find the minimum distance the unit needs to be from the car to allow the air dam to clear. Hint: I cheated a shade. My driveway has a slight incline & I used it to my advantage. By approaching the system with it uphill the ramps can be made a little shorter. If you would ever be using the system in a downhill situation take that into consideration.

1pc 2" x 10" x 8' (cut down to above figures)
The ramp supports were made from the drops from the other pcs. I have no clue what they measure at the moment. I used a couple pieces of 2" x 6" & several 2" x 4"s.

The system in pinned together with .375" x 4" bolts. Two on the front & rear of each bridge & two on each ramp. Before drilling the holes for the pins put the system together & mark the ramps, bridges, & pedestals to each other, that way it will go back together later on with out confusion. The bridge support holes are drilled straight down toward the floor while the ramp pin holes are drilled perpendicular to the ramp angle.

Cut angles on the ramps supports on the rear pedestals for a bigger contact area. I also cut the same angle on the front units so I could use them alone if needed.

I think that should get everyone close. Also I'm doing this from memory & quickly so let me know what I need to clarify....if anything

Neal


[This message has been edited by Arisa (edited 05-07-2001).]

=====

:)

Rex Ruby

Thanks!

Arisa

I just found this post. I also realized reading through my discription that there is a typo. The 2x4 that attaches to the bottom of the bridge should be 3" shorter than the measurement found. Look at the last pic. & notice how it centers up 1.5" shorter on each end than the 2x10.

Opps......This has me puzzled on why I did that....I'll look tonight & get back to this post

Neal



[Modified by Arisa, 1:09 PM 5/9/2002]

ittlfly

I appreciate it...I'm right in the middle of building it now. You can always shorten the 2x4 but you can't make it longer. :lol: I finished the 2 stands for the front tires today.
I spent $96. at Home Depot for all the stuff. Fairly easy job.
Thanks for the post :cheers:

mackeyred96

:cool: :cheers: