Bob Moore

When reassembley how much torque on the spindal nut with the cotter pin. It was not very tight taking off.

Bob Moore

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Frizlefrak

You mean Axle nut, right? 200 ft lbs on rear axle nut. I bought a 3/4" drive torque wrench that goes to 300 specifically for this job. It should have been VERY tight...one of the main questions on here used to be "How do I remove my stuck axle nut?"

Bob Moore

The nut which is 33mm you have to take off to change the rotor. Has a cotter pin thru.

Frizlefrak

Rotor should come off without removing axle nut. It just slides over the bearing hub.

Bob Moore

I guess it was a good thing because it came right off. So I need to torque it to 200. The wheel bearings are behind this correct. That will not effect the bearing being that tight.

Frizlefrak

Correct. The threaded end of the axle shaft slides through the bearing hub. Ensure that all washers go back in in the correct order. Tighten it as good as you can while on stands. Put the wheel back on without the center cap, snug the lug nuts, and put the car on the ground. DO NOT try to torque to 200 while the car is on jack stands....it could fall.

Now set the parking brake, chock the wheels to be safe, and torque to 200 ft lbs. Lift car back up, remove wheel, install cotter pin.

Bob Moore

Thanks so much I guess that could have been a diaster being that loose.

Frizlefrak

The axle is actually a structural member in the rear suspension, not just a drive shaft. Everything should be snugged up properly.

navy_vette

You could end up with holes in the floorboard like mine. I swear, whoever owned this car before is getting his man card revoked.

Frizlefrak

Yep....it's funny (once it's fixed) to see previous owner's blunders. Ghetto rigging, damage, neglect....etc. It's a lot of fun to make it right again too. Very gratifying.

j-vette

Frizlefrak

That goes without saying.

RUU

Just to be an azz, factory spec on that nut is 164 ft lbs.

Frizlefrak

Correct. And this is one of the few times I will tell you to ignore the manual. This has been discussed ad nauseum here over the last ten plus years. Torqueing to 200 has solved numerous issues of rear end noise...specifically a "clicking" on take off or backing.

I don't have my old Helms any more, but I believe on the early C4 the manual called for 164 on auto and 200 on manual.

Your bearing, your choice.

Frizlefrak

Even one of the supporting vendors recommends 185 ft lbs....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571656326-post6.html

RockG

I know about the nut, and yes every time I torc it to "spec" it seems like it lasts about a week then it starts making rear end noise and I have to tighten it again.
So I went to torc it at 185 and if it happens again I'm goin to 200. Because it's true I do hear a lot of guys here with loose nuts, no pun intended, and that should not be happening.

samsonb

Sounds like the bearings need replacing.

84wannabezo6

Maybe you should look at the washer on the stub axle behind the bearing I just ordered them today 5+ bucks each

Cruisinfanatic

should be very tight. Your bearing is most likely bad