larryfs

my A/C compressor is screaming. The clutch is not fully engaging. anyone just replace the clutch, or is it the whole compressor?

The schreching is quite dramatic.

96 LT1

zr1fred

My experience is you're better changing out the compressor, not just the clutch. Often times it's actually cheaper.

bac22

Stop using the clutch by unplugging the power for the A/C clutch or the bearings will leak out some nasty black stuff that makes a mess under the hood when the clutch bearings finally die.

Changing it is pretty easy I recall (took an hour or so), but make sure you have a decent pair of snap ring pliers.

larryfs

I shut off the A/C and the problem goes away; so why unplug it?

I need a compressor, and what else? I want to do this right, and once.

zr1fred

You may or may not want to replace the reciever/drier to (recommended on compressor replacement, especially if you've had a catastrophic compressor failure). Since the problem is the clutch (if the compressor is not locking up, causing the clutch failure) you could get by with just changing the compressor. The reciever/drier is just an aluminum container, empty except for a bag or two of desicant. It's design causes particles to drop out of the main flow and collect at the bottom of the container. It is not a filter.

Mohammed_z

did you fix the clutch or got new compressor ?


can any one give me the part numbers for the clutch and compressor ?

'94

oldalaskaman

http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDet...ame=Compressor&

SunCr

Hmmm, bought a new compressor from a Discounter once that did this out of the box. Start by checking the air gap between the face plate of the clutch and the pulley - engine off of course. It should be .020 inch. If it's right, then the assembly is probably shot, though you need to make sure the compressor can still compress. Take off the belt and turn the outer hub, which is bolted to the shaft by hand. It should turn over with some resistance, but you shouldn't have to go ape on it. If you need a wrench to move it - you need a new compressor and if you only replace the clutch assembly, it'll probably only be a second or two before it's doing the same thing.

If your gap was as big as the Grand Canyon and you can turn the shaft, you could try to reshim it. Under the face plate are some 1/4 inch metal washers and you can buy about a half dozen of them (a shim kit) from your Dealer or NAPA for 12 Bucks or so. Remove the Face Plate by holding it with a strap wrench or some oil filter pliers and then unbolt the 10 mm nut that's holding it onto the shaft. Pry it off with your hand underneath it to catch any of the factory shims. Use your kit to bring it back into spec (it'll probably take a few trys). Bolt it back up - 10 ft/lbs only on the bolt or you will crush the shims. Restart and the noise may be gone.

If you decide to go ahead and replace the Assembly, follow the same procedure to remove the Face Plate. The Pulley and Coil are held on with snap rings and accessible once the Face Plate is off. It's a bit dicey on your Year. The Main Hose assembly is in the way, but supposedly you can get some snap ring pliers between the hoses so you don't have to discharge and unbolt the manifold to have at it.