RetiredSFC 97

Starter solenoid. Yes the fitting looks like an AC fitting. You have to take the dist cover off to get to it.

Well look at it this way. you never want to throw parts at something but replacing the inexpensive sensor is still a good thing.

Starting with ether is still running through my mind.

flubyeu

I bought a pressure tester and this is the scenario - after the car is warm and wil not start the pressure with key turned on is 40 and slips down to 22 within 15 minutes. I have always been suspect of the fuel pressure regulator - what is your take? And should the pressure remain constant for a period of time?

dunno513

Have you tested your injectors for resistance (ohms). It's really simple and quick.

Drive it until it does its no start crap.

Disconnect all 8 injector wires and test the ohm readings of each injector.

Leave the injectors with readings below 10 disconnected. If your car starts, go ahead and reconnect all of them and see if it won't start again.

If it does start, do it again just to double confirm, then order a set of bosch III from FIC.

We replaced the ECU, ICM, EGR, and countless hairs with grey ones looking for our no hot start issue.. Read about a guy having the same problems and sure enough... injectors were causing the no start issue.

Oh, and if you plan on checking for injector pulse while cranking, make sure you have a test light with a led bulb.

RetiredSFC 97

It should probably stay around the 30 to 35 range after 15 minutes.

generally speaking if the FPR is bad it will go down pretty quickly to zero and cause a cold start issue. When warm it will drain and cause a flood system issue. Like if you turn it off and then attempt to restart. That's because it's dumping fuel into the intake. But after it sits all night the fuel evaporates so you don't get a flood issue. That's what mine was doing anyway.

Have you attempted to start it using the flooded engine procedure? Of course you check valve in the pump ,may also be bad. And could be an indicator of a bad pump as well. it seems to me there have been several people with this issue and the problem was a pump and/or injectors.

The bleed down could also be caused by an injector bleeding down. They don't bleed down as fast as a FPR or check valve does.

Like I say, I keep going back to the starting with ether scenario. If it starts with ether your problem is most likely in the fuel system somewhere.

flubyeu

Thanks - when checking the injectors is that done to the injector itself or the connection and if its the connection is the key on? I'm going to install the FPR this weekend looks like the entire top of it has to come part, as well for the injectors - is that correct?

flubyeu

Thanks - I have done the flood start condition to no avail. I agree it is fuel and I suspect it will be a combination of both the FPR and several injectors. I bought the o-ring set should I also pick up a gasket set for the intake runners?

flubyeu

Well here ya go fellas - it makes sense that if starting fluid will start the car then it IS a fuel delivery issue. To prove that I sprayed gas in the intake tube and BAM. Thanks to the recommendation about the fuel injector test for ohms, which is near absolute proof of defective fuel delivery, after a fuel pressure test, the issue is resolved. YIPEE - UFB - I will also install a FPR because I'll be in there anyhow.

In retrospect; fi I would have applied the logic I would use for a carborated angine, in lieu of a code, I would have saved alot of time and some money;
In lieu of a code do this -
1. Check for spark
2. Fuel pressure test
3. Fuel injector ohm test

Thanks to evryone that responded to this thread.