1985 4+3 clutch master/slave
#1
1985 4+3 clutch master/slave
I have a 85 with the 4+3 transmission I purchased new with about 56k miles. I sits more that it runs. I recently noticed when going into reverse it wants to grind unless I pump the clutch 4-6 times then it works fine. My guess is either the master or slave... Any thoughts as the peddle doesnt feel sloppy when pressed?
#2
Drifting
Check fluid in master, then look for leaks on both master and slave. Bleed slave like you would a brake caliper, I do mine with a hose in a jar with fresh fluid. Do a search on clutch slave bleeding, you will find 9 ways to Sunday on how to do it. Basically, if you take out the clutch rod, lightly, I mean lightly, pump the pedal, it should get hard with no movement as the slave piston will be up against the snap ring in the slave cylinder. Just push back the piston with the clutch rod and replace. That means it is working and bled properly. Watch fluid levels while performing this task, you may have to put some in and then take some out.
#4
Heel & Toe
If you have the car in neutral with the clutch out, and then push in the clutch and try to put immediately in reverse...you get a grind, correct?
Have you tried waiting a bit after pushing in the clutch before trying to put it in reverse? A lot of T-10's have this charming little personality trait...a good test is to wait 10 seconds after engaging the clutch before putting in reverse...if there is no grind at that point...it is pretty normal. You can also try putting it in first right before reverse...the whole time with the clutch in...that works as well. The design of the T-10 is such that the reverse gears spin for a while after putting in the clutch...at least on some of them. A few seconds or going into first beforehand usually gets everything stopped. If the spinning goes on no matter how long you hold the clutch in, you may have a clutch disengagement issue.
Have you tried waiting a bit after pushing in the clutch before trying to put it in reverse? A lot of T-10's have this charming little personality trait...a good test is to wait 10 seconds after engaging the clutch before putting in reverse...if there is no grind at that point...it is pretty normal. You can also try putting it in first right before reverse...the whole time with the clutch in...that works as well. The design of the T-10 is such that the reverse gears spin for a while after putting in the clutch...at least on some of them. A few seconds or going into first beforehand usually gets everything stopped. If the spinning goes on no matter how long you hold the clutch in, you may have a clutch disengagement issue.
#6
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Concord, California
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1st or 3rd
Syncro's my friend. When the car is parked and is in 1st or 3rd gear, try putting it in reverse and it should be smooth as butter. I have an '88 4+3.
I used to grind the gears when putting it in reverse about 1 out of every 3 times. A mechanic who drove Vettes for years said to put the car in either 1st or 3rd gear, then try and put it in reverse. Its never ever grinded since then. Every once in a while I'll forget to have it in 1st or 3rd and the gears will grind when I put it in reverse.
Try it!
I used to grind the gears when putting it in reverse about 1 out of every 3 times. A mechanic who drove Vettes for years said to put the car in either 1st or 3rd gear, then try and put it in reverse. Its never ever grinded since then. Every once in a while I'll forget to have it in 1st or 3rd and the gears will grind when I put it in reverse.
Try it!
#7
Drifting
Member Since: Oct 2006
Location: Stafford Connecticut
Posts: 1,328
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
My 86 factory owners manual says" quote"Momentary engagement of a forward gear,prior to engaging Reverse gear,will stop clutch rotation and will help avoid Reverse gear clash.a.k.a. grinding.