Door weather stripping removal
#1
Door weather stripping removal
Soon I am going to replace my door main seals on my 1988. My question is what to use to remove the old adhesive and if anyone has any good tips on how to replace them right please let me know.
#2
Once i removed the majority of the weather stripping just by pulling it out. I used goof off and a plastic bondo type scraper that i cut to fit the grooves that the weather stripping clips into. Also cover you entire interior with towels or some type of drop cloths cause replacing the weather stripping does make a mess.
#4
Drifting
Here's a good article on weatherstripping replacement:
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...water-out.html
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...water-out.html
#5
Racer
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Oak Harbor WA
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What Method?
I'm using the 3M adhesive remover, but it's a long, slow, finger-tiring procedure. I'm using both adhesive remover soaked rags and 3M scotch-brite scrub pads. But my removal rate is about 1 inch every 10 minutes. And that's on the easy part of the door. I haven't even started the bottom of the door and the front edges....
Due to gravity working against me, I haven't found a good way to let the adhesive remover soak into the old adhesive for a few minutes (plus the stuff is so volatile if evaporates very quickly).
Any techniques that work quicker, without damaging the paint?
cheers,
Due to gravity working against me, I haven't found a good way to let the adhesive remover soak into the old adhesive for a few minutes (plus the stuff is so volatile if evaporates very quickly).
Any techniques that work quicker, without damaging the paint?
cheers,
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Rochester NY
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Just did the doors on my '92 - I don't know if there is a big difference on the older ones. Had a couple screws at the front and rear top corners, removed them. Pried up on the old weatherstrip - it had adhesive for about the first 4-5 inches. After that there was no cement, just the plastic pins holding it in. Some of them came out with the old rubber, some stayed in. I used vice grips to yank the old plastic ones that remained.
So the only places I had to remove old adhesive was at either end. Got the new rubber from Willcox and it fit fine. When I put the new in, I used the same approach, goo at the ends and just the plastic pins on the rest. So far, so good!
So the only places I had to remove old adhesive was at either end. Got the new rubber from Willcox and it fit fine. When I put the new in, I used the same approach, goo at the ends and just the plastic pins on the rest. So far, so good!
#8
Drifting
Did mine yesterday on my 87. The driver side had sealer on the last 3-4 inches of the ends and was apparently a replacement w/s. The passenger side was the original and had no sealer whatsoever. Took about 1/2 hour DR side and 10 minutes passenger side. What took two hours was fixing everything that was broken on the door panels.
When it comes to using sealer, I'm of the opinion that less is more. First, I think the newer cars (post 1980), have come a long way from the dark ages and have actually planned for the w/s and molded the edges of the car body to fit. The installation is quick and easy since time is money on the production line. And two. I usually end up with more sealer on me and parts that I don't want it on.
When it comes to using sealer, I'm of the opinion that less is more. First, I think the newer cars (post 1980), have come a long way from the dark ages and have actually planned for the w/s and molded the edges of the car body to fit. The installation is quick and easy since time is money on the production line. And two. I usually end up with more sealer on me and parts that I don't want it on.
#9
My advice would only use oem weather stripping for my c4 coupe.i used the non oem the first time and it was a nightmare .a major supplier (name begins with e) sold me the first stuff and would not even give me a credit