If you were gonna buy a '74 vette...
#1
Pro
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If you were gonna buy a '74 vette...
What would you look for specifically....does that year have any special problems, symptoms, etc.???? i'm considering a purchase of one and need any input ya'll can provide...i've got a C4 & a C5, but don't know a whole bunch about C3's....
thanx in advance...
thanx in advance...
#2
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
Nothing "bad" about them. Some 454s were available that year
#4
Safety Car
I wouldn't expect a whole lot of performance, unless it's got a crate motor in it. I had a friend who had a new one, and I remember driving it and thinking it was a dog. Done up right it would be a pretty car, though. You'll want to glean as much info as you can about what to look for rust-wise, etc.
#5
CF JASOC Member
If you're a car guy, mechanicals are mechanicals.
Your biggest enemy in any C3 is frame and or Birdcage rust. If you don't know what a Birdcage is, or where to look for frame rust, see you over on the C3 side.
Matching numbers become important on any BB car, or chrome bumper cars.
Do your homework, or you could be very sorry. $$$
Your biggest enemy in any C3 is frame and or Birdcage rust. If you don't know what a Birdcage is, or where to look for frame rust, see you over on the C3 side.
Matching numbers become important on any BB car, or chrome bumper cars.
Do your homework, or you could be very sorry. $$$
#6
Safety Car
Brakes are probably the biggest problem. Our 76 and some other friends cars were constantly having brake problems. I was told if you replace most of the parts with the stainless steel after market parts it takes care of it. My wife decided to replace it with a new C-6.
#7
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74 was the last of the true dual exhaust cars. Also, as RedVette84 said there could be problems with the brakes. The calipers used from 65 to 82 had a tendancy to leak, although most have probably been fixed by now. Your best bet is to ask over in the C3 section.
#9
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A friend of mine has a '73, and yeah, it's not the refined gem they've become, but I think it'd be a great car to put a tweaked small-block into. It's got a purity to it. No computers, a carburetor, (sp?) I love the way it feels to sit in one. Nostalgic, yet primal.
#11
Melting Slicks
I have a '75, an '87, As far as your question, it would need to be decided how important originality is to you. The birdcage (previously mentioned above) is something you want to check out very closely. Also know that 3 engines were available for the '74. There is an L48 (base model) 350 with 195hp. There is a L82 350 with 250hp, and a big block LS4 454 with 270hp. You would also need to determine if you are wanting the car because it's desireable for resale. Also, note that it's not a chrome bumper car. This is the last year for true dual exhaust and no catalatic converter. The rear bumper cover is unique to this year as it is originally split down the middle from top to bottom. An original bumper cover would be very difficult (if not impossible) to locate if needed, but there are good aftermarket rear bumper covers available. Mechanically also the 1975 is the first year for HEI ignition so depending on how mechanically savy you are to the older motors you might want to consider this also. There a lot to consider about any Corvette thought, really just depends on how much you like the car and what you want from the car as far as originality. C3's seem to be desireable because of the body style and the options that were available. Remember they don't have the suspension and handeling that the C4's 5's and 6's do (obviously) ... but that doesn't make them bad cars. I love my '75 !! Good luck!
Last edited by vette54728702; 02-06-2009 at 08:10 AM.
#12
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Brakes are probably the biggest problem. Our 76 and some other friends cars were constantly having brake problems. I was told if you replace most of the parts with the stainless steel after market parts it takes care of it. My wife decided to replace it with a new C-6.
yeah,that'll cure a LOT of problems!
#13
The biggest thing I would look for if I was buying a '74 besides matching numbers and overall condition would be the seam down the middle of the rear bumper. '74 was the only C3 year to have this seam as the rear end was assembled in 2 sections. Over the years many of them have been replaced with later one piece rear panels which degrades the originality and value in my opinion. This is the single most distinguishing feature that sets the '74 apart from other C3s.
#14
After doing lots of work in a 77 restoration, I learned a bit about them. The body gaps are critical. If one side doesn't match the other side, make sure you understand why they don't match. Is it a panel that needs to be unbolted and slid a little or, is it a bonded panel problem? Watch the gaps between the fender and windshield post. This really expensive to fix if it's off and you'll see it. Don't sweat the back of the doors being low, hinge bushings usually fix this.
Don't expect the rear bumper to fit good. In my opinion, you're better off if you get fiberglass bumpers. Urethane is more original, but it tends to distort and look crappy in short order. Bumpers, if they need to be replaced are surprisingly expensive, laborwise.
The front and back of the car are comprised of a top piece and two fenders. The fenders are bonded to the top piece. No two C3's are alike because they were bonded by hand. This is why it's a bear to put on fiberglass bumpers. Urethane is much more forgiving. Watch the seams. If you look closely, from the inside, you'll see where they are. Cracking is bad, although with original bonding to be expected.
The parts for this car a durn cite cheaper than the C4. I know I've focused on body issues, because for me, they are the show stoppers on a C3. There's very little mechanical or interior you can't replace relatively cheaply on a C3. The body is a whole other story.
The 77 I worked on ended up getting a 350 crate motor, 700R4, aluminum radiator, true dual exhast, fiberglass bumpers, fiberglass rear spring, urethane bushings and, all new interior. I did most of the suspension overhaul and helped out with the radiator. The car isn't original, but it's great looking and is an awesome DAILY driver.
I can't say enough for the 700R4 conversion. It was like a whole different car. The best part was, it's a bolt up conversion, so if you did it, you could easily backtrack. I would probably brave crossfire injection in an 82 to have the 700R4 from the factory. I just wish I fit in the C3's a little better. They're somewhat tight in the shoulders for me.
Best of luck on the C3!!!
Don't expect the rear bumper to fit good. In my opinion, you're better off if you get fiberglass bumpers. Urethane is more original, but it tends to distort and look crappy in short order. Bumpers, if they need to be replaced are surprisingly expensive, laborwise.
The front and back of the car are comprised of a top piece and two fenders. The fenders are bonded to the top piece. No two C3's are alike because they were bonded by hand. This is why it's a bear to put on fiberglass bumpers. Urethane is much more forgiving. Watch the seams. If you look closely, from the inside, you'll see where they are. Cracking is bad, although with original bonding to be expected.
The parts for this car a durn cite cheaper than the C4. I know I've focused on body issues, because for me, they are the show stoppers on a C3. There's very little mechanical or interior you can't replace relatively cheaply on a C3. The body is a whole other story.
The 77 I worked on ended up getting a 350 crate motor, 700R4, aluminum radiator, true dual exhast, fiberglass bumpers, fiberglass rear spring, urethane bushings and, all new interior. I did most of the suspension overhaul and helped out with the radiator. The car isn't original, but it's great looking and is an awesome DAILY driver.
I can't say enough for the 700R4 conversion. It was like a whole different car. The best part was, it's a bolt up conversion, so if you did it, you could easily backtrack. I would probably brave crossfire injection in an 82 to have the 700R4 from the factory. I just wish I fit in the C3's a little better. They're somewhat tight in the shoulders for me.
Best of luck on the C3!!!
#15
I would look for an original car in the best condition you can afford. I would make certain to buy one that has the best potential to hold it's value or increase in value. A good numbers matching car with a bigblock or a L82 4 speed car would be what I would look for. A car with documented miles, maintenance records and no signs of collision damage including frame repair or rust would be a great start.
#16
I would skip the 1973 and 1974 years. The motors were detuned
and they drank the gas. If you want a shark get a 1969 or 1970.
If you want a newer shark get a 1978 or 1979.
Skip the 1973 and 1974 models.
and they drank the gas. If you want a shark get a 1969 or 1970.
If you want a newer shark get a 1978 or 1979.
Skip the 1973 and 1974 models.
#18
Pro
I would look for an original car in the best condition you can afford. I would make certain to buy one that has the best potential to hold it's value or increase in value. A good numbers matching car with a bigblock or a L82 4 speed car would be what I would look for. A car with documented miles, maintenance records and no signs of collision damage including frame repair or rust would be a great start.
#19
Drifting
Would look for a L-82 4-speed convertible/hardtop. There were some intersting colors with silver leather interior. Many good tips given. The 454 doesn't offer much performance stock and that is a lot of extra front end weight. Enjoy the search!