JXAce

I am in the process of re-assembling my long restoration of my 1986 Coupe and I am at the window tinting stage of my project (before I re-install the windows).

I had to repair a LOT of the defroster grid lines with that electrically conductive defroster repair paint. My question is: will a high quality tint job (3M brand specifically; one piece/heat shrink) stick correctly to the grid line repairs?? The reason that I ask is because about 20-30% of the grid lines are now this paint stuff (I know, it’s a lot). If the tint is probably going to bubble, peel, come loose from this paint, then I really don’t want to install tint and install the rear hatch without it from the get go (although, I really want that tinted look). Does anyone here have any advice on this subject??

sub006

Window tint wouldn't stick to the original wires on my Suburban. It was a light show as following cars' headlights would flash through the narrow clear strips by the wires as they went over bumps.

I junked the original tinted/defrost and got a PLAIN factory dark-tinted rear window. Then put dark limo tint film behind THAT and I have true rear night vision and total interior privacy. In the West, I can live without the defroster which I never used anyway.

JXAce

Thanks for your input. It get pretty cold here during the winters and I'll need the defroster to melt the ice that forms on the back glass. Does anybody have any other experience in this situation?? Maybe with a 3M or Llumar product??