Would someone tell me what all I have to remove to change the clutch Master Cylinder?
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Would someone tell me what all I have to remove to change the clutch Master Cylinder?
I am replacing the Clutch Master Cylinder / Slave Cylinder and hose "if I can find one", for my 1988 Corvette 4+3 bell housing mated to a TKO 500 manual transmission.
I was hoping someone has step by step instructions for the removal and install.
I found a place that sells AC/Delco master cylinder for $109 and slave for $85.
Still looking for the hose.
The parts are due in on Friday. I hope I can find a hose by then.
Thank you in advance for the help.
I was hoping someone has step by step instructions for the removal and install.
I found a place that sells AC/Delco master cylinder for $109 and slave for $85.
Still looking for the hose.
The parts are due in on Friday. I hope I can find a hose by then.
Thank you in advance for the help.
#2
Safety Car
Not sure if the computer is under the hood on an '88, but if it is, you will have to move it out of the way.
Jack up car and place on jack stands
Disconnect battery
Remove drivers side hush panel from dash.
Reach up under the dash and remove the clip that holds the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal, then remove the rod.
Using a flare type wrench, remove the hose from the master.
There are two bolts that hold the master to the firewall remove them.
Under the car, there are two bolts that hold the slave to the bellhousing. Remove them. Remove slave.
Using the flare wrench, remove the hose line form the slave.
Check out the hose, it should be attached to the firewall and engine at some point.
Install is reverse of removal.
Don't forget to bleed the system when finished.
Make sure to use the GM fluid.
Good luck
Jack up car and place on jack stands
Disconnect battery
Remove drivers side hush panel from dash.
Reach up under the dash and remove the clip that holds the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal, then remove the rod.
Using a flare type wrench, remove the hose from the master.
There are two bolts that hold the master to the firewall remove them.
Under the car, there are two bolts that hold the slave to the bellhousing. Remove them. Remove slave.
Using the flare wrench, remove the hose line form the slave.
Check out the hose, it should be attached to the firewall and engine at some point.
Install is reverse of removal.
Don't forget to bleed the system when finished.
Make sure to use the GM fluid.
Good luck
#3
Melting Slicks
On my 94 I had to go under the computer to get at the hose. The battery was in the back on some years, don't know about yours?
I remove the side body panel and completely removed the battery from the car. This lets you get to the hose as I said and lets you get to the mounting nuts for the master cylinder.
In the car under the dash you have to remove the actuator rod from the clutch pedal. You have a different style dash so I'm not sure what you'll have to do to remove the lower panel of the dash.
How do you expect to do anything as complex as this without owning the Helms shop manual? Maybe there's enough detail in a Chilton's to get you started, but the Helms is worth its weight in gold.
I remove the side body panel and completely removed the battery from the car. This lets you get to the hose as I said and lets you get to the mounting nuts for the master cylinder.
In the car under the dash you have to remove the actuator rod from the clutch pedal. You have a different style dash so I'm not sure what you'll have to do to remove the lower panel of the dash.
How do you expect to do anything as complex as this without owning the Helms shop manual? Maybe there's enough detail in a Chilton's to get you started, but the Helms is worth its weight in gold.
#5
Cruising
Member Since: Apr 2007
Location: Houston Texas
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Not sure if the computer is under the hood on an '88, but if it is, you will have to move it out of the way.
Jack up car and place on jack stands
Disconnect battery
Remove drivers side hush panel from dash.
Reach up under the dash and remove the clip that holds the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal, then remove the rod.
Using a flare type wrench, remove the hose from the master.
There are two bolts that hold the master to the firewall remove them.
Under the car, there are two bolts that hold the slave to the bellhousing. Remove them. Remove slave.
Using the flare wrench, remove the hose line form the slave.
Check out the hose, it should be attached to the firewall and engine at some point.
Install is reverse of removal.
Don't forget to bleed the system when finished.
Make sure to use the GM fluid.
Good luck
Jack up car and place on jack stands
Disconnect battery
Remove drivers side hush panel from dash.
Reach up under the dash and remove the clip that holds the clutch actuating rod to the clutch pedal, then remove the rod.
Using a flare type wrench, remove the hose from the master.
There are two bolts that hold the master to the firewall remove them.
Under the car, there are two bolts that hold the slave to the bellhousing. Remove them. Remove slave.
Using the flare wrench, remove the hose line form the slave.
Check out the hose, it should be attached to the firewall and engine at some point.
Install is reverse of removal.
Don't forget to bleed the system when finished.
Make sure to use the GM fluid.
Good luck
I see the reference to a hose between master and slave, my 85 has a metal line between the two, at least it is metal where it attaches the master. Also what is a flare wrench? I am preparing to change my master and slave and I am not familiar with a flare wrench.
#6
Le Mans Master
Looks like a box end wrench with a slit to slide past the line.
#7
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2004
Location: Hurricane Alley FLorida
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Hope your seals are installed correctly on your new cylinders! I replaced my original cylinders a couple of years ago and I am now putting in my third set. This time I'm taking them apart to check the seals. See www.zfdoc.com.
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Hope your seals are installed correctly on your new cylinders! I replaced my original cylinders a couple of years ago and I am now putting in my third set. This time I'm taking them apart to check the seals. See www.zfdoc.com.
I hate to take it apart if I don't have to.
With my luck I will screw it up, taking it apart.
Anyone know for sure which master cylinders are affected?
Is there a problem with the slave cylinders?
I just read the article.
It stated that it was the slave cylinder on the newer C4.
So I guess I should be alright with the old 4+3 type cylinders.
It was of concern to me, that they not only screwed up on putting the seals in backwards, but also quit deburing the master and slave cylinders, thus causing more failures.......it seems like everyone wants your money, and no one wants to do the work .
Last edited by 5speedC4; 04-19-2007 at 12:25 PM.