Bose Speaker Relay - 1988 Coupe
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Bose Speaker Relay - 1988 Coupe
I have followed several threads on this site, exposed the center dash and I cannot find the speaker relay. More times than not, the relay refuses to work and so no sound.
Anyone out there have direct experience finding this relay?
TIA
Anyone out there have direct experience finding this relay?
TIA
#2
Race Director
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The relay is attached to the dash support brace. The opening in lower left corner of pic, is where the relay is hiding. I have an aftermarket dash, so getting to it was not too bad. You could try and get at it by removing the parts in the center panel or removing the passenger side lower panel and reaching up. You may want to just unplug the relay(leave it attached) and plug in a new one.
Here's a pic showing the wire colors.As you can see by the pic, I just cleaned the contacts and re-sealed the relay.
Here is a pic showing the dash support it's mounted to.
Good Luck
Here's a pic showing the wire colors.As you can see by the pic, I just cleaned the contacts and re-sealed the relay.
Here is a pic showing the dash support it's mounted to.
Good Luck
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Tremendous. Thanks for the great pics. I followed another set of instructions previously but the relays I was looking at were not that far to the right (I was accessing through the center panel). Does the passenger dash pad come off easily?
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#7
Team Owner
I had to replace my speaker relay on my 87 this Spring. The FSM wasn't too clear on the location but the directions for removing the pieces to get to it were good.
You have to remove the center dash trim and loosen the trim around the digital display. Remove the radio. There are 5 wire harnesses at the back of the radio and there is not a lot of extra wire to allow the radio to be pulled forward to get to the clips on the various connectors.
Remove the DIC panel and the small box next to it that is the warning chime module. The speaker relay will be to the lower right in the hole at the right side of the dash cavity. It's held to the support brace with two 8mm sheet metal screws. I was able to get the screw out by using a long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel on the 8mm socket. It took some doing to get the socket to hold onto the screw head but they did come loose. One screw is lost among the wires and is probably gone forever.
The relay will not come out into the center cavity because the wires are too short. You will need to remove the passenger footwell hush panel and force the relay downwards among the wires to where you can disconnect it from the harness connector.
Replace the relay and then use a wire tie to simply hold the relay to an available wire bundle. Then re-install all of the dash stuff.
FWIW, the gray center box in the first pic of Agent 86's post is the VATS Decoder Module (secret decoder ring for the ignition key )
You have to remove the center dash trim and loosen the trim around the digital display. Remove the radio. There are 5 wire harnesses at the back of the radio and there is not a lot of extra wire to allow the radio to be pulled forward to get to the clips on the various connectors.
Remove the DIC panel and the small box next to it that is the warning chime module. The speaker relay will be to the lower right in the hole at the right side of the dash cavity. It's held to the support brace with two 8mm sheet metal screws. I was able to get the screw out by using a long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel on the 8mm socket. It took some doing to get the socket to hold onto the screw head but they did come loose. One screw is lost among the wires and is probably gone forever.
The relay will not come out into the center cavity because the wires are too short. You will need to remove the passenger footwell hush panel and force the relay downwards among the wires to where you can disconnect it from the harness connector.
Replace the relay and then use a wire tie to simply hold the relay to an available wire bundle. Then re-install all of the dash stuff.
FWIW, the gray center box in the first pic of Agent 86's post is the VATS Decoder Module (secret decoder ring for the ignition key )
#8
Race Director
No. You have to remove the upper dash (top) and hush panel first. Even then, it's still a pain to get to. Even then, it's easier to cut at least one of it's mounting brackets to free it. (Believe it or not, this is the recommended removal procedure for companies selling dash kits).
That's what I did, but I'm not reusing the dash pad.
gp
That's what I did, but I'm not reusing the dash pad.
gp
#9
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
No. You have to remove the upper dash (top) and hush panel first. Even then, it's still a pain to get to. Even then, it's easier to cut at least one of it's mounting brackets to free it. (Believe it or not, this is the recommended removal procedure for companies selling dash kits).
That's what I did, but I'm not reusing the dash pad.
gp
That's what I did, but I'm not reusing the dash pad.
gp
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I had to replace my speaker relay on my 87 this Spring. The FSM wasn't too clear on the location but the directions for removing the pieces to get to it were good.
You have to remove the center dash trim and loosen the trim around the digital display. Remove the radio. There are 5 wire harnesses at the back of the radio and there is not a lot of extra wire to allow the radio to be pulled forward to get to the clips on the various connectors.
Remove the DIC panel and the small box next to it that is the warning chime module. The speaker relay will be to the lower right in the hole at the right side of the dash cavity. It's held to the support brace with two 8mm sheet metal screws. I was able to get the screw out by using a long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel on the 8mm socket. It took some doing to get the socket to hold onto the screw head but they did come loose. One screw is lost among the wires and is probably gone forever.
The relay will not come out into the center cavity because the wires are too short. You will need to remove the passenger footwell hush panel and force the relay downwards among the wires to where you can disconnect it from the harness connector.
Replace the relay and then use a wire tie to simply hold the relay to an available wire bundle. Then re-install all of the dash stuff.
FWIW, the gray center box in the first pic of Agent 86's post is the VATS Decoder Module (secret decoder ring for the ignition key )
You have to remove the center dash trim and loosen the trim around the digital display. Remove the radio. There are 5 wire harnesses at the back of the radio and there is not a lot of extra wire to allow the radio to be pulled forward to get to the clips on the various connectors.
Remove the DIC panel and the small box next to it that is the warning chime module. The speaker relay will be to the lower right in the hole at the right side of the dash cavity. It's held to the support brace with two 8mm sheet metal screws. I was able to get the screw out by using a long 1/4" drive extension with a swivel on the 8mm socket. It took some doing to get the socket to hold onto the screw head but they did come loose. One screw is lost among the wires and is probably gone forever.
The relay will not come out into the center cavity because the wires are too short. You will need to remove the passenger footwell hush panel and force the relay downwards among the wires to where you can disconnect it from the harness connector.
Replace the relay and then use a wire tie to simply hold the relay to an available wire bundle. Then re-install all of the dash stuff.
FWIW, the gray center box in the first pic of Agent 86's post is the VATS Decoder Module (secret decoder ring for the ignition key )
Thanks for this info. I will be prepared with the right tools. Using this info along with the great pics above I should be good to go.
#12
Melting Slicks
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#13
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Speaker volume
I just got a 1990 with the Bose Gold radio. With the volume turned to max I can barely hear the radio when at a stop. Could this be the speaker relay? Any other ideas?
Thank you
Thank you
#14
Intermediate
Is the speaker relay located in the same palce on a 93 convertible? My Bose system is not working. The shop pulled the headunit and receiver and sent them out for testing. Both units test OK so something else is wrong. I guess either the speaker relay is bad, or the amps on all of the speakers are bad.
James
James
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I would be surprised. The relay controls power to the speaker amps. With no power it is unlikely that any signal at all would get to the speaker. BUT, I don't remember the circuitry in the amps and it may be possible if you turn the volume up enough and some signal drives through the amp. Where do you hear the sound from?
#16
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Could this be the speaker relay? Any other ideas?
Assuming volume is low at all speakers, the problem is likely in the preamp, located (I believe) below the storage compartment in the hatch.