grayml

Hello all,
The VATS system in my 94 has gone crazy, I can have the driver's door open and start the car and it goes off, opening the passenger's door without first opening the driver's door sets it off, and so on. If I use the key on the passenger's door the alarm won't sound, but if I unlock the passenger's door from the driver's door and then close the driver's door it will sound off.

I've replaced the plunger type switches and the rear of the doors, are there and more contacts in the door anywhere else that might cause this to happen?

The horn alert goes off, the ignition interlock is never affected.

IRAraid

It sounds like you're having difficulty with the alarm system, a close cousin of the VATS (vehicle anti theft system). The VATS inhibits starting and fuel injection when the incorrect key resistance is detected. The alarm system sounds an alarm when the door is opened without disarming.
Anyway, your alarm system is berserk. They vary somewhat from year to year so I hesitate to make a recommendation based on my '95 system. But it's probably in your door lock sensors or ignition key sensors. Try searching for alarm (not VATS) or check in a Helms manual for your '94.
Hopefully someone familiar with '94 alarm will kick in.
Good luck.
PS does your car have (or used to have) an after-market alarm or radio?

grayml

No, it's all stock. I wish there was some way to just disconnect the alrm system. Anyone know if there is a way?

zr1fred

Definately nothing to do with the VATS, a totally different system. Try dis-arming by using the passenger door key, and then NOT using the power door locks. Does the problem go away? There are switches on both door key mechs that dis-arm the alarm. I could check if you need, but I think the only way to set the alarm is with the power door lock.

MaSTeRofDZaSTeR

This may seem odd, but it happened to me in my '90. I can't say for sure whether your 94 is wired anywhere close for this, but I'm guessing by the "plunger" type contacts in your door that its possible. What happened to me is that I noticed the contacts at the bottom rear of the door(plunger type/peg) weren't the full problem necessarily. They simply weren't staying at contact with the door well where it touches up against it. They'd touch, but later somehow crept away after doors been shut and in turn, setting off the alarm next time I did anything with the door. It could've had something to do with the plunger so to say, but then again it could have something to do with the whole door. My solution was not to even mess with the door, but rather the well. I took a little circle cut velcro stick piece and attached a penny to the well where the contact would be atop the velcro connection(enabling no mess removal). Never had the problem again.

grayml

I'll try that and see what happens. Thanks for the info.

grayml

Both of these switches are new, I wonder if there are any more contacts in the hinge area of the doors? And is these plunger switches at the rear of the door that trips the interior light on when the door is opened?

MaSTeRofDZaSTeR

Wish I could tell you on your 94. I wouldn't think they'd be logically much different on your 94. We might not be talking about the same thing here when we say "plunger". I'm assuming you mean the little peg devices that stick out of your door when the door is open(atleast on 90). These let the system know to keep the light on if the drivers side is open. And yes they should be at the rear of the door but kinda slightly inward so they rest against the well of the door when its closed.
I had nightmares with my friggin aftermarket system when the fobs went bad. The stock system started to go haywire too.(I know you have no aftermarket system). Im not sure if itll set it off, but you also want to make sure your console is completely shut between seats inside and anything that would further run down the battery with an activated light. Those may have something to do with it although I doubt it isn't coming from your door pegs if your 94 has them. SHould be a very simple fix, but then again it depends how easy you wanna make it. Hopefully, if its not something else in the wiring. Start with the easy stuff first, and try the fix I suggested anyway to see if the pegs are going in all the way. If that doesn't work, you might wanna look under the dash hush panel and make sure no wires are loose or anything.

braveheart3158

I nave the shop manual if u want me to san some pages for u? I had a problem also but mine would not start because the sensor in the ignition was not detecting the chip on the key. Only happened one day a few times. Since then I sprayed DiElectric Grease spray on the key and inserted in ignition for non conductive lubrication. It did seem a little sticky going in. So far so good.

Chuck Tribolet

This problem was from 2006.

Good electrical contact will be made through dielectric grease. The
grease migrates out of the way, and metal to metal contact is made,
and electrons flow. The "dielectric" part means that electrons won't
flow through the grease from one conductor to the next. Some
grease can be a bit conductive, but not dielectric grease.

Chuck

theadmiral94

no, no more contacts related to the door open swinging open, however, there is a 'switch' behind the key lock on each door, which if failing or not centered can affect the alarm system.

The door switches (aka door ajar switch) can fail (even if new) in 1 of 3 ways:
1. stick and do not pop-out -- esp if old or other than vaseline is used to lube. replacment if often the only solution for this issue.
2. self-adjusting nose pushed all the way in -- the door switches have a 2nd part of the plunger which is designed to make them adjustable by it sticking out of the plunger and staying out. However, often it doesn't stay out and pushes all the way in. This causes the plunger to NOT be pushed in enough when the door is closed. 2 small o-rings on the 'self adjusting nose shaft' will keep it protruded and solve this issue.
3. Electrical failure -- when the switch pops-out, it closes the circuit, when pushed-in, it opens the circuit. Water intrusion into the switch can cause it not close/open the circuit when it should. I had 2 'new' switches which were poorly constructed and one didn't work electrically and the other had a crack and would have allowed water in if I had installed it.

The unique feature of our C4's is that the 'door ajar' switches are ONLY connected to the CCM (central control module), and it then uses the 'state' of the switch (circuit open/closed) to send digital signals to other computers (e.g. alarm module) and to control other lights (door ajar dash light, interior lights, hatch operation, key FOB operation, etc).

However, the CCM can be easily confused if signals from the door key lock, ignition key switch, door switches, ECM, etc are not in sync and what was expected.

Suggest removing ignition key, do not lock the door, pull the battery negative cable, wait 15-30 minutes, reconnect battery and then see if/what happens.

Also, Suggest reviewing FSM book 1, section 8D. Therein are tests of the CCM's inputs & outputs. Suggest testing the door ajar switches and other CCM inputs.

Also, please advise IF you have the key FOB (remote), and if it is working correctly (e.g. alarm sets upon walking away, car unlocks upon approaching the car).

The key FOB may not work correctly if the door ajar switches are not working correctly or if the inside ball-bearing is stuck and not waking the remote to send its signal (as well as telling the car the remote is moving away from the car). The ball bearing can be cleaned -- its inside a small metal housing, careful removal of housing and careful cleaning (isopropol alcohol and swabs or electrical cleaning spray will restore it to new condition).