C4boy

I'm trying to find the source of a current draw and started checking my battery cables. What I found under some electrical tape was a hack job from hell of some spliced wires off the positive cable. There's a 2-wire, 20A fusible link attached to the + side of the battery terminal. Part of it leads down to one of those GM metri-pack connectors and goes into a harness. The wire on the metri pack connector is barely hanging on. The other wire goes into an inline fuse, then to another fusible link, then into the junction block.
a)I know the replacement AC Delco + cable comes with the metri-pack connector, but is there normally a fusible link there as well? (mine looks like it was installed aftermarket)
b) Anyone know where I can get metri-pack connectors attached to some wiring? Or am I going to have to get an AC Delco cable and go through that PITA?
c)Lastly, anyone know off-hand where the negative cable grounds?
Thanks in advance

deerra

I don't have the answers but would like to know myself, hence, the bump to the top.

jfb

Always include the year C4 you are asking help for, they are not all the same!
Normally there is a wire from the OEM positive cable lug that goes to the jump start terminal behind the battery and there are 8 wires on this bolt and each has its own fusible link. No fusible link on the wire to the bolt. The ground cable on the battery goes to the frame below the battery and there is another braided wire that goes from that frame connection to the back of the left head on the engine.

C4boy

My bad, it's an '86. Though the year is in my profile, I shouldn't have to make you search if you're going to be nice enough to answer my question....permission to slap me around with a dead fish.

So regarding the extra leads on the positive cable, there should be 1 wire going to the junction block and the other wire with the metri-pack connector goes to the harness that ties into the alternator? I'm asking because my schematic isn't matching my wiring. thanks again!

AILERON

I think I would start by replacing both battery cables. With the FSM in hand, then I'd see what wires were left over, assuming some kind of "addition" had taken place in the past.

If the "added" wire(s) were solid color, good bet they didn't come from Chevrolet. Get rid of them. Then, go inside, crank it up, and see what doesn't work.

It will be a bit tedious but in my experience as a former avionics tech, you've got to be methodical and patient.

You are literally playing with fire here, judging by the looks of the picture.

Good luck, Dude. We're here for you.

C4boy

Ya think? Worst part is, that must have been spliced together by a "mechanic" at one time before I bought the car.

I ended up putting in a delco cable last week ($45 for a freekin battery cable ). Pain in the neck, but no longer a fire hazzard.

I also put in a new battery and did a parasitic draw test and everything seems ok. I still can't identify the wire with the fusible link that goes into a harness, so I cleaned it up and connected it inline to the 1 wire it came from. The link had a factory connector on one end that didn't quite mate up with the connector on the new cable. I'll re-visit that another time for now. New cable has 1 lead that goes to the jump block, one lead with a metri-pack that goes into a harness leading to the alternator (I believe), and my 3rd mystery lead with connector that goes into another harness. Not to mention the starter cable that has to be cautiously routed behind the distributor.

Negative cable grounds behind the driver's head/block according to the manual, but I couldn't see exactly where. Braided strap off neg. cable goes under the battery box to the frame. Just thought I'd update in case someone else finds it useful.

This is what was attached to the old positive battery cable