ncook

When I got in my vette tonight and fired it up I noticed my dash wasn't lit. The left and right turn signals were on solid as was the bright light indicator but that was it. After a second, I put my finger into the right turn signal and gently pressed on the lense and the dash came on. This is the only time it happened, but what the heck is that about?

Also, sometimes when I drive for a while then shut the car off and try to start it again after a few minutes it doesn't turn over. I noticed it seems to happen when the coolant temp gets between 195 and 200 (I was getting on it a little on the way there). After I let it sit for a few more minutes, it seems to fire right up. I dont know if it has anything to do with the temp but thats the only thing I can think of. Any other ideas???

LangstC4

I have heard the turn signal and high beam lit are symptoms of a possible bad ground for your dash problem. Not sure about the starting problem...seems unrelated...but electrical none the less. Good luck.

jfb

Dash off and turn/brights on is caused by a bad ground in the cluster and the cluster current goes through these lamps to ground causing them to stay on. Check www.batee.com for some help there.

jhammons01

If your dash is unlit Just hit it a couple of times

*Runs and hides before the yelling starts*


















Just kidding, Don't hit it, Use the link Trace your Grounding short. Remember Hot humid nights may play a part in the Short.

ncook

No guess as to the starting problem?

mikey whipreck

Is it the original starter? 20 years of oil leaking onto it from the valve covers does some nasty damage to it...

CSS996

Wasn't there an issue with the starters getting too hot in these cars? Heat Sink, I thought it was called. Heat from the engine compartment caused the problem, and somehow insulating the starter solved it. Hopefully someone else can verify or dismiss. I'm not 100% sure.

Good luck though.

jhammons01

Sounds like the Starter is giving you notice that it wants to retire. Don't ignore it. a new/rebuilt is a cheap form of security.

I did this a few months ago on my old Trooper. The starter was dragging and I ignored it...until the day I needed the Trooper for a camping trip.....of course!!! The really sad thing was the fact that on that model you had to drop the Exhaust Down pipe to get the starter out......which meant you had to drop the Tranny mount Cross member.....which meant you had to support the Tranny......Which equated to a four hour job.

ncook

If it were the starter would it be an "all or nothing" type of situation or would it start to drag and so on? I ask because its all or nothing, it either turns over like a champ or does absolutely nothing at all.

CSS996

If it's heat sink, then it would only happen when the engine was warm, and the heat had time to have it's way with the starter. Does it start up again once the engine cools off?

I would still wait for someone else to confirm what I thought I read about this heat sink problem before I bought a new starter.

jfb

Its heat soak, not heat sink.

CSS996

OK, so I'm not crazy... Just stupid. In my defense, it was probably about five years ago that I read about it. :o

RRT vette

I also think it is a ground problem in the dash. As for the starter, make sure the battery connection is clean and tight. You can also test the volts a the starter and soleniod to confirm a bad starter or connection. If you do take it off, have it tested first before spending money on a new one. This is a starter problem and not a VATS correct?

bsmutz

Chevy starters are notorious for heat problems. They sit too close to the exhaust in most cases. They do seem to last quite long in spite of this, though. I had a '74 Camaro that had problems intermittently after driving it. I would try to start it and nothing would happen. I suspected the battery connections and would clean them. After a while, it would start just fine. One day after work, it wouldn't start no matter what I did. I checked the starter (removed, bench tested, and reinstalled) and still nothing. I finally noticed that the alternator connection was grounding out against the edge of the valve cover. The vibration had caused the edge of the valve cover to wear through the insulation on the wire causing a short. I think your two problems are probably unrelated. Your starter problem could be a variety of things from the ignition switch/key to the solenoid to the starter to the battery/ground or any of the wiring/connections in between. Start with the easy stuff and work your way up to the hard stuff. Intermittents are the worst. It's much better if something just doesn't work at all. Good luck.

86conv

I have been going through the same thing... it appears that my ignition switch is the culprit. Mine did it even when I had the key turned on when listening to the radio washing the car (not running). I had the starter and vats module checked out and all were fine.

Laney

i have the same problem!

Midnite 88

Could be a VATS problem. Try using your "spare" key for a while. You can also try using electrical contact cleaner inside the switch and on the pellet.

rick lambert

Next time the starter acts up, take a piece of pipe and tap it...if it then starts, you've got your answer (ask me how I know).Vinnies 87 is having the same problem with his dash....So, I'm going to start a post for you guys..quotation from Gordon Killebrew.

ncook

What will tapping the starter tell me?

Midnite 88

If you tap the starter, it will sometimes break loose a sticking solenoid. If you try to start the car and you don't hear a clicking noise, it is sometimes a sticky solenoid.

I still think it may be VATS related. Just a hunch.