Is a "Maaco paintjob" better than "no paintjob"?
#22
CF "Young" Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jrzvette
According to your profile your car is gray & black. Are you sure its not silver & black? If it is it could be one of 50 Malcolm Konner editions produced in 1986. If that's so I would definitely NOT get it painted at Maaco or any other cut rate shop.
And I must say I like corvette-pilot's idea, may just do something along that line.
#23
Melting Slicks
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Most Maaco shops are franchise shops. Most Maaco shops use a synthetic single stage enamel for their base paint jobs. You get what you pay for with ANY body shop. You can spend big bucks at a Maaco shop as well, and come out with a premium two stage paint job. I paid a Maaco shop in Denver nearly $1200 to paint a 87 IROC, and it looked better than the OEM paint job that came on it!
I've got no problems with Maaco at all.
I've got no problems with Maaco at all.
#24
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Look at my pics.I have an Earl Sheib paint job.I paid extra for prep work had them use SW paint coded for my car with flex agent in it and went there as much as I could to check the progress.Paid $1200 and am statsfied.I have a few fish eyes and 2 or 3 grains of sand in the paint but it looks 100% percent better than when I bought it and unless your very **** you would not find the flaws.If you show them you are watching them and tell them up front exactly what you expect it to look like when they're done it can be a good value.It also has a 3yr repaint warranty.
#25
Le Mans Master
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The real problem with a production shop, is its a production shop. A spray booth that sees 10 paint jobs a day is a dirty spray booth. The walls are dirty, the floor is dirty, the filters rarely get changed.
The prep crew gets maybe $10.00 an hour. The materials are the cheapest, the painters don't last long.
Every body job is pushed thru by the shop manager, very little metal work, all bondo.
I've worked in a Macco shop and they don't give a raztazz about quailty. Few shops do, but they're all about profits.
I worked there a week and then got a real job.
The prep crew gets maybe $10.00 an hour. The materials are the cheapest, the painters don't last long.
Every body job is pushed thru by the shop manager, very little metal work, all bondo.
I've worked in a Macco shop and they don't give a raztazz about quailty. Few shops do, but they're all about profits.
I worked there a week and then got a real job.
#26
Le Mans Master
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I made sure they waited till they cleaned the filters and booth(which they have to do eventually anyway) before they shot mine.Good point redwing.I also made sure the shop manager knew exactly what I expected and told him it would be redone if he did not make sure it was right the first time.I did let him slide on the fisheyes and also paid extra for a wetsand and polish which is mandatory for a good finish.
#27
Instructor
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Ok here goes. I manage an Earl Scheib paint shop. Actually the number one shop in a chain of 110 chains. I just finished a "65" GT350 clone. Correct paint and strips, used dupont durachrome. It was completetly sanded by machine and hand. Not to the metal. It has a base coat, three color coats and 2 clear coats. It was then color sanded and buffed. Total cost was under a grand. You get what you pay for. If you want a quicky 229 paint job than I will give it to you. You got to realize that these shops are not custom, they are production shops. I have 8 to 10 cars a day run through my booth. We offer 1, 3, 6 and lifetime warranties. The warranty covers fade, peel and wrinkles on any of the metal. Sheib makes its own paint, and is OEM for many manufactures, cars, trucks and buses. For the average car owner on a budget its a bargain. Sure I have heard all the horror stories, hell s--t happens and I have a few bad jobs. Differance is I take care of my customers and have repainted screw ups. Go for it and good luck. I plan on painting my 95 there. Ruby Red Pearl.
#28
Burning Brakes
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Cruise-In I Veteran
paint
maaco has different grades of paint jobs. The cheapest they use generic paint which from my experience does dull and no amount of waxing helps. You want a better paint then you will pay more to them for it. Like was said it all depends what you will use car for. If a daily driver then it would be rediculous to spend a boat load of money for a paint job that will be abused by daily use and ignorant jealous azzhoes.
personally I would go for the better paint and have maaco do the job.
For the price and the better paint it should hold up without having to take a note on car for the job.
personally I would go for the better paint and have maaco do the job.
For the price and the better paint it should hold up without having to take a note on car for the job.
#29
Burning Brakes
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St. Jude Donor '06
The volume painters only allow their "detailers" less than 1/2 hour to do all the prep'ing, sanding, and taping.
That means virtually no prep'ing or sanding.
The quality of their paint is okay. Macco being better than Shibe.
Your dad is right. Do the body work yourself and sand the entire car with 800 grit wet 'n dry (using water). The better you prep the car, the better the paint will stick. The reason custom paint jobs cost so much is the time spent in prep'ing the car. Make certain the entire car is sanded and make damn sure there is no Armor All anywhere (that stuff is a painters nightmare). Take off the tail lights, antenna, body molding, emblems, etc - remove anything you don't want just taped around as the tape marks can show and they will paint right over your rubber side moldings etc. if you leave them there.
If you can, request a two stage paint (base coat then at least two coats of clear coat). If Macco doesn't offer that next best is Single Stage paint (which has clear mixed in with it and the clear floats to the top on application). Least desirable (from a depth stand point) are the enamels and acrylics. Acryllics are more durable than enamels and show better.
Be there when they paint the car so you can watch the taping & painting. Maybe even hang out a while before you take your car in so you can see the actual color & paint you chose on another car. Usually a good idea to stay with the cars original color so under the hood, inside doors & trunk, etc will still match.
Clean this car like you have never cleaned it before and plan on a couple of full days for your prep. You will be pleased with the results.
That means virtually no prep'ing or sanding.
The quality of their paint is okay. Macco being better than Shibe.
Your dad is right. Do the body work yourself and sand the entire car with 800 grit wet 'n dry (using water). The better you prep the car, the better the paint will stick. The reason custom paint jobs cost so much is the time spent in prep'ing the car. Make certain the entire car is sanded and make damn sure there is no Armor All anywhere (that stuff is a painters nightmare). Take off the tail lights, antenna, body molding, emblems, etc - remove anything you don't want just taped around as the tape marks can show and they will paint right over your rubber side moldings etc. if you leave them there.
If you can, request a two stage paint (base coat then at least two coats of clear coat). If Macco doesn't offer that next best is Single Stage paint (which has clear mixed in with it and the clear floats to the top on application). Least desirable (from a depth stand point) are the enamels and acrylics. Acryllics are more durable than enamels and show better.
Be there when they paint the car so you can watch the taping & painting. Maybe even hang out a while before you take your car in so you can see the actual color & paint you chose on another car. Usually a good idea to stay with the cars original color so under the hood, inside doors & trunk, etc will still match.
Clean this car like you have never cleaned it before and plan on a couple of full days for your prep. You will be pleased with the results.
#31
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
My opinion is wait until you can afford to have it done properly. If you're asking, you have doubts, too. Ask your dad for the money and put it into a "paint-the-car-fund". You asked, that's my answer.
#32
Burning Brakes
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In auto paint you will get exactly what you pay for. Maaco will use the cheapest paint they can get by with, and the painter might have been painting latex on houses last week, and yours is the first car they ever got to spray, or close to it. The masking is hap hazard, and you will spend hours cleaning up paint everywhere it shouldn't be. And the runs will typically be numerous. Then again, you might get lucky and have a squirter who is experienced, but still don't expect the materials to be of the quality you would pay for. As an example, the last car I did used basecoat/clearcoat urethane paint, over a coat of primer/sealer. The materials alone cost over $600.
#33
Racer
Originally Posted by cdl369
Ok here goes. I manage an Earl Scheib paint shop. Actually the number one shop in a chain of 110 chains. I just finished a "65" GT350 clone. Correct paint and strips, used dupont durachrome. It was completetly sanded by machine and hand. Not to the metal. It has a base coat, three color coats and 2 clear coats. It was then color sanded and buffed. Total cost was under a grand. You get what you pay for. If you want a quicky 229 paint job than I will give it to you. You got to realize that these shops are not custom, they are production shops. I have 8 to 10 cars a day run through my booth. We offer 1, 3, 6 and lifetime warranties. The warranty covers fade, peel and wrinkles on any of the metal. Sheib makes its own paint, and is OEM for many manufactures, cars, trucks and buses. For the average car owner on a budget its a bargain. Sure I have heard all the horror stories, hell s--t happens and I have a few bad jobs. Differance is I take care of my customers and have repainted screw ups. Go for it and good luck. I plan on painting my 95 there. Ruby Red Pearl.