does anyone have any experience with the accel/lingenfelter box and nitrous. what is a good way to install? Any opinions appreciated and thanks for the responses.
I used a wet plate in front of the SR for several years. Everything worked fine until I had a N2O explosion. It pulled 12 of the cover screw out of the box (went ahead and tapped all holes to 1/4-20 after incident), turned the accordian into "recycling", and destroyed MAF.
My issue was that all of my N2O (3 stages) has always been on timers (2.5 secs after throttle application for 1st stage - 90HP) with activation of the throttle switch. Unfortunately I armed the system prior to burnout and promtly consumed the 2.5 secs. So... as soon as I went WOT, the system sprayed, and there was a lot of fuel "pooled" in the SR. Kaboom!
BTW, I replaced the broken parts and returned with the N2O (still through the plate), spraying the SR. However, I no longer activated the system prior to the burnout. That was the one and only N2O explosion/backfire. Lesson learned!
Last edited by AKS Racing; 10-09-2009 at 10:36 AM.
PeteK: I dont know alot about NOS so if you could explain how it is activated and what safety there with the system?? This year I finally got my clutch, alum. flywheel, complete rearend with 3.73s, some suspension parts and a ripper shifter. I don't think I'll be able to go down the strip this year but I would like to see maybe a 11.5x run next year so I would like to think more about the NOS and what I would be able to achieve.
PeteK: I dont know alot about NOS so if you could explain how it is activated and what safety there with the system?? This year I finally got my clutch, alum. flywheel, complete rearend with 3.73s, some suspension parts and a ripper shifter. I don't think I'll be able to go down the strip this year but I would like to see maybe a 11.5x run next year so I would like to think more about the NOS and what I would be able to achieve.
There are many different ways to activate it. Most run a hobbs switch so that it will only come on above a predetermined fuel pressure. Most also run a wide open throttle switch in line with the hobbs. Hobbs is basically a shut off feature if you go lean, and the wot switch is used to activate it.
I chose to run a push button, so I can bring it on and off when I want to.
Some guys run a progressive timer that brings on the NOS with a ramping effect to control the hit, and not over power the tires.
Plate system is controlled by jets, so you can start off small (50 horse or so) and increase the jets as you build confidence.
good info right there pete. now for someone thats relatively stock minus some port n polish what would be a "safe" amount to spray and the MAXIMUM amount of NOS you would run? I know it will increase wear on the motor but for occasional track use what would you recommend?
good info right there pete. now for someone thats relatively stock minus some port n polish what would be a "safe" amount to spray and the MAXIMUM amount of NOS you would run? I know it will increase wear on the motor but for occasional track use what would you recommend?
Think of NOS like water in a pipe. If you jamb too much in, it will back up. If it backs up, it goes boom. For a 350 cube motor with stock sized intake runners, 100 hp is a safe shot. I ran a 150 shot in my 383 for many years, and plan to step it up to a 200 shot in my pending 406 cube, 195 intake runner combination.
I looked up the kit you said you were running and it said it was for pretty much stock TPI 305/350's. Im starting to warm up the the whole NOS idea now. More research is DEFINITELY needed. Thanks pete!
I ran 100, then 125 shot for years. Later I went to a staged approach that brought in 45hp, then 90 hp, then combined both for 135.
The stages were activated by micro roller switches on the shifter and worked well. I was able to start with the 45 shot in 1st, then pull the shifter to the R and hit the 90 (turned off the 45 shot) if traction was sufficient. Then when you shifted into 2nd with it pulled to the R, the 90 shot stayed activated. If you allowed the shifter to return to the normal position (not pulled to the R), both systems sprayed for the full 135. Third gear was the full 135 shot. This system by far was the smoothest application of N2O on any car that I have done. All systems were also controlled in-line by a WOT and MSD window switches (2800/5800 for the 45 shot, and 3000/6000 for the 90 shot).
This was all done on a stock bottom end and the later versions were done on a SR intake.
Aaron
Corvette Store
accel/lingenfelter box/nitrous
