Rear end

out2kayak · 08-16-2009, 10:44 PM

Just curious, what are folks using for a rear end when you have four digit HP numbers?

Thoughts?

-- Joe

qwiketz · 08-17-2009, 03:06 AM

well, that would depend on what you wanted to do with the car. Most drag guys are at a live axle at this point.

neat · 08-17-2009, 11:16 AM

There are some things you can do. Summers Brothers Racing makes some super heavy duty stub axles that would probably live under that kind of power. Some steel or chromoly half shafts would probably live as well. If you put in a new carrier from Toms Differentials, you'd have a pretty stout independent set up.

If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.

BrianCunningham · 08-17-2009, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neat

There are some things you can do. Summers Brothers Racing makes some super heavy duty stub axles that would probably live under that kind of power. Some steel or chromoly half shafts would probably live as well. If you put in a new carrier from Toms Differentials, you'd have a pretty stout independent set up.

If you dead hook it on a clutch drop, under full power, I still think you'd probably break something. I think it'll hold up as long as you are resonable with it though.

sums up what I'm doing.

Hopefully it will hold together.

I'm be going road racing so I want to keep the IRS

qwiketz · 08-17-2009, 02:43 PM

How much does one of these setups run when it's all said and done?

Also, isn't there another manufacturer of aftermaket case? Is it neuman car creations or something like that? I checked the tom's site and it says 2010 eta.

BrianCunningham · 08-17-2009, 03:35 PM

The Newman rear, which does NOT bolt up to our cars is around $4-#5k

I just ordered the 31 spline subaxles @ $1,300

New guts for the rear ~$600
but that doesn't keep you from snapping off the front of the diff where the batwing connects.

There's a C4 in my tuner's shop that just did that.

The C3 stuff can be built to take it, after you stuff a 12bolt in and spend $4k

neat · 08-17-2009, 04:15 PM

There are some home brew solutions to the nose snapping issue. If there is a cage in the car, supporting the nose of the case with an extension of the cage is a good option. I can also picture a way to support the nose of the case using the bat wing mounts, but I haven't really pursued it.

Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.

out2kayak · 08-18-2009, 11:22 PM

Interesting thoughts. Thanks for the ideas!

So.... Something that ran through my head was using a Moser M9 centre section with something like http://www.pstds.com/critical_link_drive_shafts.htm for the half shafts and drive shaft.

Will have to ask about Toms Differentials.

If you can't tell, I want IRS but I want it as darn near bullet proof as possible.

-- Joe

BrianCunningham · 08-19-2009, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by neat

There are some home brew solutions to the nose snapping issue. If there is a cage in the car, supporting the nose of the case with an extension of the cage is a good option. I can also picture a way to support the nose of the case using the bat wing mounts, but I haven't really pursued it.

Another option is to remove the inner stub axles, outer stub axles, and half shafts; then replace the entire assembly with a CV joint. That still doesn't solve the case issue, but it might help to solve the problems outboard of the case. I don't know of anyone that has done this, but I think it would be possible.

I know of one forum member that replaced his diff with a quick change.

mnstrlt1 · 08-20-2009, 06:53 PM

I've heard, from an old school c4 owner, that at one time there was a company that use to make an IRS ford 9" that was suppose to be "bullet proof". I haven't even taken the necessary steps to research this. But it does sound like a pretty cool option.

Although a live-axle rear-end is fun, I still prefer the IRS in the vette' myself.

I also was told by Bill (zfdoc.com) that you can extend the bump stops to prevent the axles from over-extending past fully horizontal. I guess he know's of a few c4 owners (none cf members) that run consistent 1/4 mile times with serious small blocks (in excess of 800lb/tq with NOS or FI) that use this method, and the IRS seems to live.

AKS Racing · 08-20-2009, 11:27 PM

I have the extended bump stops, as well as the cradle to prevent ripping the D44 apart. I used to break on a yearly basis (average), but have not had issues in the last ~5 years. Knocking on wood....

qwiketz · 08-21-2009, 12:43 AM

aaron, can you tell us more about your rear and where to get one of those cradles?

mnstrlt1 · 08-21-2009, 05:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by qwiketz

aaron, can you tell us more about your rear and where to get one of those cradles?

I second that! Never heard of a craddle, but had always thought about the idea of adding one. please include pictures!

BrianCunningham · 08-21-2009, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKS Racing

I have the extended bump stops, as well as the cradle to prevent ripping the D44 apart. I used to break on a yearly basis (average), but have not had issues in the last ~5 years. Knocking on wood....

me too

pics?

Any interest in selling a kit?

out2kayak · 08-23-2009, 10:30 PM

Are you referring to http://www.dtepowertrain.com/dte_c5_diff_strut.htm? I have not seen anything for the C4....

-- Joe